Mike's Climbing Blog

Northwest Climbing Links

2012-11-18T08:05:00.000-08:00

2012 CLIMBING ACTIVITIES

TRACK CLIMB TEAMS PROGRESS

Current (Climbs in the last 7 days) location via SPOT Satellite messenger

WEATHER, FIRE, SNOW and ROADS

CLIMBING CLUBS and WEBSITES

EQUIPMENT CHECKLISTS

EMERGENCY NUMBERS

Climb Assistant Orientation

2012-01-27T07:32:00.000-08:00

A big thank you to Bryon Snapp for organizing the clubs first-ever assistant climb leader orientation on January 18, 2012. It was very successful ....and encouraging to see the number of folks who are stepping up to take a role in future club leadership. Attendees included:

Leaders
Bryon Snapp
Mike Niemeyer
Scott Phillips
Steve Dougherty
Jess Palacios

Current Assistants
Jerry Croft
Aslinn Adams
Amy Dale

Aspiring assistants:
Cathy Lazarus
Stephen Rockford
Justin Clark
Simon Boyd
Cipriano Manon
Jason Kabbes
Brad Wood
Dan Harris
Mason Smith
Guy Rodrigue
Brett Millikenas
Mary Wandell (Mary insisted that she is "rock only" and refused to be in the picture but I added her name here as form of peer pressure.)

Also active assistants, or expressing an interest in being an assistant (but not able to attend this event);
Linda Beddard (current assistant)
David Braun
Josh Zielinski
Sean Breslin
Theresa Conley
John Coyer

Mt Washington, North Ridge, August 19, 2012

2011-12-30T11:09:00.000-08:00

On August 19, 2012 I'll be leading a Chemeketan club climb of Mt Washington via the North Ridge route. This is a relatively easy rock climb but requires climbers to be in good physical shape and comfortable doing rappels with exposure, climbing on a fixed line and using a prussik. Its a long (12 hr car-to-car) but fun day.

Roster: (Note that inclusion on the roster is not a guaranteed spot on this climb. Climbers must demonstrate prior to the climb that they are in good physical condition for an alpine climb and have the requisite skills and equipment.)
Mike Niemeyer (leader)
Mason Smith
Dan Harris
Seth Lucas
Bryan Brenneman
Brett Milliken

Alternates
Jason Kabbes

Climb Schedule:

6:30am, We will start by hiking south on the PCT for 3.5 mi. to a climbers cairn marking the climbers trail.

7:30am, Turning east we will head toward the north ridge of Washington. following the contour onto the north ridge
11:00am, We will continue along the last edge of the ridge until turning west to descend around the final pinnacles that lead up to a loose gully and saddle
12:30pm - Here we will don our harnesses and helmets as the next 75 ft. of climbing to the top of the nose is the most difficult on the route
2:00pm- from here we move on to the left leaning chimney where some easy face climbing leads to the top of the nose (Class 4/easy 5) above the nose its unexposed scrambling to a short gully(grade 1)
3:00pm - Summit shots, high fives. Three rappels back down to the notch. hydrate and pack up for the scramble/hike back out the same way we came in.
7:30pm back to the trail head. We may stop in Gates for dinner.
Current Mt Washington area weather

Last minute fires to worry about? A good resource is the Inci-web website to see if there are any fires in our climbing area.
Approach (From Steve Doughtery's Website): Follow an unmarked trail along the lake for two or three minutes, to a junction with a second trail called the Patjens Lake Trail. Continue around Big Lake until the trail leaves the shoreline. At an obvious junction, turn left (east). (Continuing straight will lead away from Mt. Washington to Patjens Lake.) Head east for about five minutes. Several spur trails will join the trail from the west, but continue east until the trail splits. Take the right fork for two or three minutes to a clearing with a pile of dead logs on its south side. (The left fork continues around the east side of Big Lake). Turn right (south) in the clearing and follow a wide trail for five minutes to its junction with the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT). Follow the PCT south for 30 minutes (or about one hour from the road head), to a climbers' trail which goes uphill to the east. The climbers' trail is usually marked by a cairn and is just after a large rock on the left side of the trail. If you reach Coldwater Spring, the only year-round water source on this section of the PCT, you have missed the climbers' trail and hiked about 10 minutes too far. About 150 feet after leaving the PCT, the climbers' trail splits. The right fork can be used for gaining the west ridge or routes on the south face. Follow the left fork until it breaks out of the timber onto the north ridge proper. Drop onto the east face. Continue up the ridge for routes on the north and west faces. As you approach the summit pinnacle, stay on top of the ridge as long as possible. Skirt several towers to the west until you reach the north wall of the summit pinnacle. Move up a short loose gully to a notch just below the northeast side of the mountain. Move right (west) 30 feet and scramble up to a fractured ramp. (I consider there to be two ramps ... take the second.) Climb the ramp up and left 35 feet to the base of a rotten chimney. (Start of chimney is slightly overhung) Climb the chimney and move left, then up, to a ledge with a large block. The block usually contains one or more rappel slings for the descent. About 250 feet of scrambling leads to a second chimney. From the top of the chimney, scramble 100 feet to the summit.

Emergency Info:Leader is carrying a cell phone 503-910-9726 and a SPOT rescue beacon. I'll be sending out OK messages during the climb and can send out a 911 if we run into trouble (or come across another party that needs help.) Willamette National Forest Contact Information 57600 McKenzie Hwy McKenzie Bridge, OR 97413 (541) 822-3381. Linn County Sheriff: 541-967-3950. Detroit Ranger District: 503-854-3366
Equipment:
See this link for equipment lists #1 (10 essentials) and #6 (One-day technical rock climb) Please be sure to have a prussik ready and a piece of personal pro (sling girth-hitched on your harness with a biner on the end) ready to go. Carrying a separate pair of rock shoes for the summit pitches is optional.

See route details and GPS from my previous Mt Washington climbs at http://mikessummits.blogspot.com/search/label/Mt%20Washington
See my July 18th Mt Washinton climb for the full Prospectus

SPOT Waypoints from our August 22nd 2009 climb:
-Latitude:44.3776 Longitude:-121.8811 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:08/22/2009 19:57:16 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.3776,-121.8811&ll=44.3776,-121.8811&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
-Latitude:44.3508 Longitude:-121.8654 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:08/22/2009 18:53:03 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.3508,-121.8654&ll=44.3508,-121.8654&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
-Latitude:44.3434 Longitude:-121.8447 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:08/22/2009 18:11:57 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.3434,-121.8447&ll=44.3434,-121.8447&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
-Latitude:44.3363 Longitude:-121.838 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:08/22/2009 17:17:43 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.3363,-121.838&ll=44.3363,-121.838&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
-Latitude:44.3333 Longitude:-121.8382 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:08/22/2009 16:57:00 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.3333,-121.8382&ll=44.3333,-121.8382&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
-Latitude:44.3392 Longitude:-121.84 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:08/22/2009 10:08:07 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.3392,-121.84&ll=44.3392,-121.84&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1 -Latitude:44.3776 Longitude:-121.8807 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:08/22/2009 07:09:25 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.3776,-121.8807&ll=44.3776,-121.8807&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Middle Sister, Hayden Glacier, July 21-22, 2012

2011-12-30T11:03:00.000-08:00

On July 21-22, 2012 I'll be leading a Chemeketan club climb of Middle Sister via the Hayden Glacier and north ridge route. (Crux pitch shown below)

Schedule:

Wednesday July 18, 7:00pm
Pre-climb meeting at the Chemekaden (State Street above Cooks stationary) Please bring your gear.

Saturday July 21

7:15 AM -Silverton folks meet at Niemeyers - final gear check.
7:45 AM Carpool from Salem State Motorpool (Airport road) headed to Sisters.

9:15 AM short coffee and restroom stop in Sisters. Drive to trailhead.

10:00 AM - Arrive at trailhead, pass out group gear, etc.
10:45 AM -Depart Pole Creek Spring Trail Head (5300’/0.0 miles)

11:30 AM -Green Lakes Trail junction (Tr 4070) (5900’/1.4 miles).

11:50 AM -Lunch break at Soap Creek ... Chambers Lakes Trail Jct.(Tr 4074) (5760’/1.9 miles)

12:45 PM -Climbers Trail junction (3.7 miles)

2:30 PM -Arrive at 6800’ camp on Squaw Creek below Hayden Glacier. As time, and conditions, allow we will be practicing rope team travel, passing through pickets and crevasse rescue after we set up camp.

Sunday July 22

3:00 AM -Wake up.

3:30 AM -Start climb

9:30 AM -Arrive at summit. (10047')

10:00AM -Depart summit.

12:45 PM -Arrive at 6800’ camp on Squaw Creek.

1:30 PM -Depart 6800’ camp on Squaw Creek.

4:15 PM -Arrive at Pole Creek Spring Trail Head (5300’).

5:15 PM -Dinner in sisters.

6:30 PM -Depart Sisters.

8:15 PM -Arrive in Salem.

Roster (Note that inclusion on the roster is not a guaranteed spot on this climb. climbers must demonstrate prior to the climb that they are in good physical condition for an alpine climb and have the requisite skills and equipment.)
Mike Niemeyer (leader)
Mason Smith (assistant)
Megan Hogland
Mike Pennington
Brett Milliken
Bryan Brenneman

Driving directions: Drive east on highway 22 to Sisters. Just before you get into Sisters, turn Right onto Hwy. 242.To get to the Pole Creek trail head: travel 1.5 miles west of Sisters, OR on Hwy 242, turn South, Left, on Forest Service road 15 which is paved at first, but the pavement soon turns into washboard gravel. Follow the well traveled forks (generally to the right) for the first few miles. At 7.1 miles you'll reach a "Y" intersection. Stay left at this junction (following the signs to Pole Creek), and follow the road to its end just past milepost 10 at the parking area for the Pole Creek Trailhead. There is a pit toilet at the trail head but no water. Drivers: You will need a Northwest Forest pass to park at the trailhead - these can be purchased from a machine at the trailhead.

Participant responsibility: It is each participant's responsibility to be in good physical shape and have the skills and equipment to participate safely in this climb. A club release will be circulated at the trailhead for each participant to sign.
Skills needed: Passing through pickets on a rope team; tying/using prussiks on rope for crevasse self-rescue; ice-axe self arrest; rope team travel.

Required personal equipment - See List #3

Group Gear: The following will be distributed at the trailhead and redistributed periodically during the trip: Ropes; Pickets; one bivy sack and one sleeping bag will be carried by the party on summit day;

Emergencies: In addition to the personal gear and group gear (above) the leader will be carrying a SPOT satellite rescue beacon, GPS and cell phone (503-910-9726.) I will also be sending occasional satellite "check-in" messages to this blog during the trip. In the event of an emergency, I will send out a 911 signal from this device. Track our progess real-time at this link. Local Emergency Contacts: Emergency Contact Information: 911; Central Oregon Emergency Dispatch Center 541-416-6800; Deschutes National Forest, Sisters Ranger District: 541-549-7700.

NAVIGATION and WEATHER:

Middle Sister Weather forecast at 9000ft

Trip Profile

Trip distances and GPS waypoints

Route topos courtesy of the Mazamas: Middle Sister Route and Middle Sister approach

Links to recent middle sister climbs:
http://mikessummits.blogspot.com/search/label/Middle%20Sister
http://mikessummits.blogspot.com/2011/01/middle-sister-via-hayden-glacier-july.html

Mt Hood, South Side, June 2-3, 2012

2011-12-30T10:36:00.000-08:00

On June 2-3, 2012 I'll be leading a chemeketan club climb of Mt hood via the south side route.

Personal Gear (See List #4)

Group Gear: We will have a stove and fuel, a sleeping bag and bivy sack (1 set for for emergency), SPOT beacon, cell phone, GPS with route on it, 1 60'm rope, 5 pickets, wands (each flag marked "MWN") 1 shovel and first aid kit.

Tenative Climb Schedule:

June 2nd- Drive to Timberline Lodge, nap in parking lot, alpine start.

1:30 pm- Meet in Silverton/Salem for carpooling (location TBD). Check individual and group gear.
2:00 pm leave for Mt hood.
3:30 pm stop in Government camp (or somewhere along the way) to get something to eat.
4:45 pm or so - arrive at Timberline lodge parking lot, pick up permits and blue bags, maybe do a quick review of passing through pickets.
5:30 pm or so- rest in the overnight area.

Monday, June 3rd, Summit Day

11:00 pm- Wake up time (This is where climbing seems like a really stupid sport.)
11:30 pm, Head up the climbers trail east of the ski area.
Approximately 2:15 am arrive at top of Palmer about 8,500' (Probably put crampons on here if not sooner)
5:00 am at hogsback area, rope up
6:15 Summit via old chute route (Wow climbing is great.)
7:30 Arrive back at hogsback and get out of harnesses and ropes. long break.
7:45 Descend,
9:00 regrouping at top of Palmer climbers trail
10:30 or so arrive back at Timberline parking lot. Clean up.
11:15 lunch/breakfast in Government camp .
12:15 head home
2:15 back in Silverton/Salem area.

Weather

Route:

Here are links to similar, recent Mt Hood south side Climbs:

Silver Falls Trail Maintenance April 21, 2012

2011-12-30T10:28:00.000-08:00

Silver Falls State Park Spring Trail Maintenance Day, April 21, 2012. We will meet a ranger at the main parking lot near the South Falls Lodge at 8:30 am. Carpoolers planning on meeting at the South Salem K-mart parking lot (next to Jack-in-the-Box along Mission street) meet at 7:30 am and leave by 7:45. This work party will have something for every ability and skill level. The park will supply all needed tools - you need to bring gloves and wear hike/work clothes (i.e. a tuxedo would be inappropriate.) It will be warm so bring plenty to drink, sun protection and your lunch. Bradd will have parking vouchers for you. You will also need to sign a park release form.
The event should wrap up no later than 3:00 pm - leaving some time if you want to explore the park afterwards. Park Trail Map and directions
Besides getting outside in a beautiful place with fun folks this activity also has the benefit of improving park trails, getting the club access to some really great park facilities for future Chemeketan Wilderness first Aid classes (see picture right) and we also get some signage in the State’s most popular park.

CPR Certification Course (AHA Heartsaver), February 17, 2012

2011-12-30T10:05:00.000-08:00

CPR Certification Course (AHA Heartsaver), February 17, 2012. (Note that Chemeketan climb leaders can get reimbursed from the club for this course.) To register or for additional information contact Mike Niemeyer.

Schedule
Friday, Feb 17th from 6:00 pm to 9:30 pm

Cost: $40 ($30 if live or work in the Fire District). Please make checks payable to "Drakes Crossing RFPD".

Location:
Drakes Crossing Fire Station
19364 Powers Creek Loop NE, Silverton, OR 97381
Phone (503) 873-6868

Pre-registered:
Brett Milliken
Bryon Snapp
Justin Clark
Mary Wandell

Preparations:

Please wear loose fitting/comfortable close that will allow you to perform CPR on a mannequins on the floor.
Note that cell phone coverage is sparse at this location.
Check road conditions before heading to class. the station is at about 1,500 ft elevation and we can have snow on the roads this time of year.

Mt Hood Snow Skills Clinic, May 5, 2012

2011-12-27T19:13:00.000-08:00

On Saturday May 5th, 2012 I'll be coordinating a Snow Skills Clinic on Mt Hood along with Bryon Snapp. This is an opportunity for climbers of all levels to test and improve their fitness and add to their snow climbing skills. Depending on the group’s experience and the snow conditions these skills may include things like: use of the ice axe on steep snow; crampon technique; "hanging" belays, building and moving through snow anchors; Intro to snow pits (avalanche assessment); building a hypo-wrap (first aid); or z-pulley (rescue). Since this is a training exercise and we are not venturing too far off the Palmer snowfield this trip will still go in less than perfect weather. (I'll post a no-go notice to this website if weather is truly awful.) Different skills will be covered each day and will depend on the interests of the group. Note that Bryon Snapp will also be linking this with a summit climb on -Mt Hood. Please email Bryon to check on availability for that option.

Equipment:

We will be getting into steep snow conditions for this outing. Ice axe, harness, helmet and crampons (fitted to your boots ahead of time) are required. I recommend that you pack as you would for a Mt Hood Climb. this will be a good chance to test your gear and food/water options out. Please have your gear together and be prepared to carry some group gear (ropes, shovels, etc.) Its best to have a larger pack and have some external straps for lasing down a rope and strapping on an ice axe (i.e., don't come with a small textbook type daypack. I've got nothing against Care Bears but their equipment line rarely includes ice axe loops.) We will be getting into the snow so a waterproof outer shell laye is important and an extra set of gloves to swap out when your first pair gets wet.See Gear List #4. (Don't buy expensive gear. Borrow it where you can or rent from REI. )
Location
We will be somewhere along the south side route and the Palmer snowfield...where ever we can find some steep, suitable terrain.

Schedule
This is a preliminary schedule is subject to change.
We will have carpools leaving from Silverton and Salem on Saturday morning May 5th at 7:30 am. Email Mike Niemeyer if you want to joing the Silverton carpool. The Salem carpool will meet at the Salem State Motorpool parking lot on airport road.

We will assemble at the climbers registration area just off the Timberline lodge parking lot at 9:45am.

This will be a full day activity. I expect we will be wrapping up and back to the Timberline parking lot about 4 pm.

Roster
Mike Niemeyer (leader)
Bryon Snapp (Leader)
Chuck Dowell
David Braun
Mike Pennington
Courtney Carlson
Seth Lucas
Mason Smith
Brett Milliken
Jason Kabbes

Santiam Fire Academy

2011-12-03T18:23:00.001-08:00

Santiam Fire Academy, Learn-to-Burn December 11, 2011

Santiam Fire Academy, Fire Control Class at DPSST - December, 2011

Virtual Climb School: Part 5

2011-11-13T17:44:00.001-08:00

Wilderness First Aid training, February 25-26, 2012

2011-11-13T14:36:00.000-08:00

This is an 18 hour Chemeketan Climbing Section - Sponsored Wilderness First Aid training February 25-26, 2012 at Silver Falls State Park.The course will be 8 am to 7 pm on Saturday and 8 am to 5 pm Sunday. It is limited to 20 students. The course will teach practical skills and decision-making using realistic emergency scenarios that might be encountered on a climbing or backpacking trip in the cascades. This is an intense, hands-on course that includes outdoor scenarios in the dark and in winter conditions.

Lead Instructors:

Mike Niemeyer,Wilderness EMT (Bio)

Dorothy Brown Kwaiser, Wilderness EMT

Coaches, patients and hysterical bystanders

Mike Rudy
Jason Wagoner
Joanne DeMay
Carol Vanderwall
Courtney Carlson
Jackie Niemeyer
Dan Harris
Aslinn Adams

Students Preregistered

Cynthia Vargo
Bryon Snapp
Amy Dale
Mark Olson
Brett Milliken
Simon Boyd
Theresa Conley
Mary Wandell
Brad Wood

PREREQUISITES and PREPARATION

Must be 18 years of age or older

Must have the ability to lift 40 lbs

Must have current CPR certification (Available through the Drakes Crossing Fire Dept if you can't get this elsewhere in time.)

Course Text book Buck Tilton's "Backcountry First Aid" prior to class. See below for ordering information.
Be familiar with the Mazama Rope Litter (We will cover this in detail in class)
Provide your emergency contact information to Mike Niemeyer.
Sign a class agreement and release form and bring the form with you to the first class.
You will need a watch that displays seconds.
Bring snacks and meals for both days (we won’t be feeding you). We will have a kitchen facility available with a sink, microwave, fridge, stove, etc.
Bring a day pack or backpack that can get knocked around a bit – with supplies you’d typically bring on an outing, including a closed cell foam sleeping-type pad. Bring an extra thrift-store quality shirt and pants/sweat pants – should you volunteer to be a patient in a scenario.

COURSE COSTS and REGISTRATION:

Cost is $45 (Mainly tocover the cost of expendable first aid supplies students will use in thetraining.) Students will need topurchase the textbook on their own (about $10). You are on your own for meals. A State Park parking pass is also required($5/day). Payment is required to confirm your reservation. Email Mike Niemeyer to register.

Course Wilderness First Aid Report form and Checklist - We will be including this form in your first aid kits for use during the class scenarios - its a good idea to get familiar with it before class. The form should be printed 2-sided and folded twice so the numbered pages open in order.

Course required reading

Backcountry First Aid, Buck Tilton. This book is $5.95 new from Amazon or a dollar or two used. Its also available at most outdoor stores including REI. We selected it because it was small in size, very inexpensive, and covered the basics needed for a weekend wilderness first aid course. You must purchase and read this book prior to class - we will be giving you a short quiz on the first day of class - just to keep you honest.

Optional reading

For the medical professional: Medicine for the Outdoors: The Essential Guide to Emergency Medical Procedures and First Aid, Auerbach. If you have a medical background you'll appreciate the information in any of the books by Paul Auerbach, MD. I frequently use his Field Guide to Wilderness Medicine as a handy desktop reference (I usually have a medical dictionary nearby when I'm reading it). Also for medical professionals: Wilderness Medical Society Practice Guidelines for Wilderness Emergency Care, 5th Ed. This text is often cited as the standard of care for wilderness medicine.
Other good wilderness first aid books for the lay person: Mountaineering First Aid by the mountaineers - This is a good text for a wilderness first aid course (We used it for this course last year.) Wilderness First Aid, Third Edition: Emergency Care for Remote Locations by AAOS is a nicely produced and illustrated work.

Accomodations & Carpooling

Silver Falls State Park has cabins, and RVand Tent sites for those who want to stay at the park during the course.
Carpooling? In Salem meet at 6:30 am Saturday and Sunday at the State Motorpool on airport road (under water on Jan 20 - hopefully back in operation in time for this event).

Helpful weblinks:

Wilderness First Aid - legal issues

Hypothermia Guidelines - Alaska (This is an advanced protocol for EMS folks but provides a detailed discussion of cold injuries.)
Military Survival Manual (See chapter on "Basic survival medicine")

Course Outline

Course safety considerations
Legal, moral and ethical issues in wilderness first aid
Scene survey andscene safety
Initial Patient Assessment and Urgent first Aid
Focused Pt Exam (secondary Survey)
Wounds & Bleeding
Head, neck and back Injury
Chest and Abdominal
Extremity injuries
Overviewof fractures, dislocations,

b. Slingsand splints– includes practice.

c. Sprains,strains,

11. Foot care and Blisters

12. Miscellaneous: rings, eye and dental emergencies, COPoisoning

13. Evacuation

a. Hypo-wrapand evacuation techniques, demo

b. Litterbuilding demo

14. Burns

15. Shock

16. Environmental Illness

a. ColdInjuries

b. HeatInjuries

c. AltitudeIllnesses

17. Sudden Medical Issues and bites

a. DifficultyBreathing and chest Pain

b. Unconsciousness(non-traumatic)

c. Allergicreactions

d. Bitesand stings, Ticks

e. Diarrhea

17. Organizing a rescue

a. Assessingrescue needs,

b. Makinga 911 report,

c. helicopteroperations

Training Location:

Mt Hood South Side Route, June 26-27, 2011

2011-06-18T07:02:00.000-07:00

We had a successful summit of Mt Hood on 6/27/2011 with a team made up of Silver Falls Park staff and me. This was a strong team. Notably, Guy Rodrique volunteered to carry the rope up all the way, Thanks Guy. Carl carried all the pickets and the rope down.

The climb benefited from good weather, calm winds with light cloud cover for most of the climb. The air temp was cool enough on the upper mountain that wet slab avalanches were not a concern. The snow was not as firm as it would have been without the cloud cover, but but the well trod boot track made for stable footing most of the way.

For a Monday there was a surprising number of folks on the upper mountain. We encountered a youth group as we were ascending through the narrow gully at the top of the Old Chute route in fog. This group was very slow and had little apparent skill. they had a couple of adult leaders and apparently all beginner teenage climbers. They were on two rope teams with no anchors, lots of slack in the rope and the leaders at the bottom of the rope. A fall would have sent the entire team down the slope.

Our team moved past the slower group and after passing through the moderately steep and icy chute (with fair steps) and a short traverse we arrived at a cloud swept summit with only occasional views to the north.

At the summit we met another Chemeketan climber and allowed he and his wife to share the pickets we had left in place for the descent. At the top of the chute we again got stuck behind the youth group descending in two parallel rope teams. Once in the narrow chute they ground to a halt. The leader was attempting a boot axe belay from above, incorrectly.

When I gently asked if he was trying to do a boot-axe belay and offered to show him how- he abandoned the belay altogether and said, "oh well they'll probably be fine, its not that bad." Guy was leading our team down and the drama continued as he was stuck behind the youth group. The rest of our team was stuck exposed and freezing on the summit behind the logjam.

The youth group adult leadership also featured such motivational gems as [Leader speaking to young girl in fetal position on steep icy slope] "You get moving or we'll just leave you here to die."

Once around the youth group Guy led us down. The sky opened enough we could get some views on the way down and we took a break at the Hogsback. The firstyouth group team arrived at the hogsback about the time we left. Our descent was notable as it was the most I've been able to glissade on Mt Hood. We essentially slid from 10,200' to about 8,600'. (Note that our SPOT track puts us west of our ascent route - thats where we ended up after sliding.

We fnished up with breakfast at the Huckelberry in Government Camp.

Pre climb prospectus below:

Roster
Mike Niemeyer (leader)
Dylan Edwards
Dorothy Brown-Kwaiser
Guy Rodrique
Carl Shephard

Gear (See List #4)

We will have a stove and fuel, a sleeping bag and bivy sack (1 set for for emergency), SPOT beacon, cell phone, GPS with route on it, 1 60'm rope, 5 pickets, wands (each flag marked "MWN") 1 shovel and first aid kit.
Tenative Climb Schedule:

Siunday June 26th - Drive to Timberline Lodge, nap in parking lot, alpine start.

1:30 pm- Meet at Mike's house in Silverton. Check individual and group gear.
2:00 pm leave for Mt hood. (We will be taking 2 pick-up trucks with shells so we have room to rest a bit before the climb.)
3:30 pm stop in Government camp (or somewhere along the way) to get something to eat.
4:45 pm or so - arrive at Timberline lodge parking lot, pick up permits and blue bags, maybe do a quick review of passing through pickets.
5:30 pm or so- rest in the overnight area.
11:00 pm- Wake up time (This is where climbing seems like a really stupid sport.)
11:30 pm, Head up the climbers trail east of the ski area.

Monday, June 27th, Summit Day

Approximately 2:15 am arrive at top of Palmer about 8,500' (Probably put crampons on here if not sooner)
5:00 am at hogsback area, rope up
6:15 Summit via old chute route (Wow climbing is great.)
7:30 Arrive back at hogsback and get out of harnesses and ropes. long break.
7:45 Descend,
9:00 regrouping at top of Palmer climbers trail
10:30 or so arrive back at Timberline parking lot. Clean up.
11:15 lunch/breakfast in Government camp .
12:15 head home
2:15 back in Silverton.

Weather

Route:
Mt Hood S Side route compass tips here (Thanks to PMR)
PMR Mt Hood GPS
Track teams progess during the climb via this link

Middle Sister via Hayden Glacier, August 13-14, 2011

2011-06-12T08:13:00.000-07:00

On August 13 , 2011 Our Chemeketan team hiked in from Pole Creek trailhead to about 6,900' at the base of a continuous snowfield leading up to the Hayden Glacier. The hike in was relatively cool for the time of year and there was plenty of running water at our camp spot. (Apparently plenty of ravens also - something made off with Terry's mountain house dinner.)

We practiced anchor placement, passing through pickets and roped team travel and rested for the climb early Sunday. Tom Spettel decided to not attempt the climb as he had experienced some ailments on the approach hike in. Jackie Niemeyer had not planned to summit and also remained in camp when we pushed off about 3:45 am Sunday morning.

We roped up at about 7,900 ft at the base of the Hayden glacier where many small (and easily avoided) crevasses were evident.

The rising sun turned the glacier orange as we ascended, enjoying the unobstructed vistas. We caught a view of lights of an obsidian team headed up North sister that we had met eariler on the trail. Danni Harris was kind enough to send me the picture she took of our team (below)

At the saddle we took off crampons and packed the rope for about 700 ft of east scrambling up the N ridge.

At the snowfield that is typically the crux of the climb we again put on crampons and roped up. This section had only fair steps and was icy (Not something I would have wanted to do without crampons - it had been deep buckets in soft snow a month earlier) I set pickets to protect this section and the team did a running belay, leaving the pickets in place for the descent. As is also typical, the section above was a sand dune of small and large scree, two steps up and one back - hard on the spirits at this point in the climb. A short snowfield and we were soon enjoying the spectacular views from the summit. The return to camp was about 2 hours with Terry leading us down. We got in a few short glissades below the glacier. The hike to the trailhead was long and dry and the ice chest in the car was a welcome antidote. A stop in Sisters (Depot Deli), summit certificates and we were headed home. A strong, enjoyable team! Special thanks to Carl Shephard who carried the rope about 80% of the trip. Pictures courtesy Mason Smith. This was a great trip made even better by sharing it with my wife Jackie and daughter Katie.

From pre-climb prospectus:

Team

Mike Niemeyer (leader)
Terry Walstrom
Carl Shephard
Katie Niemeyer
Mason Smith
Tom Spettel (base camp)
Jackie Niemeyer (base camp)

For trip reports of past climbs of this route see:
Middle Sister 2011 (July)
Middle Sister 2010
Middle Sister 2008
Middle Sister 2007

Schedule:

Wednesday August 10, 7:00pm
Pre-climb meeting at Niemeyer's Silverton

Saturday

7:15 AM -Silverton folks meet at Niemeyers - final gear check.
7:45 AM Carpool from Salem/Silverton (exact meet-up location TBD) to Sisters.

9:15 AM short coffee and restroom stop in Sisters. Drive to trailhead.

10:00 AM - Arrive at trailhead, pass out group gear, etc.
10:45 AM -Depart Pole Creek Spring Trail Head (5300’/0.0 miles)

11:30 AM -Green Lakes Trail junction (Tr 4070) (5900’/1.4 miles).

11:50 AM -Lunch break? Soap Creek ... Chambers Lakes Trail Jct.(Tr 4074) (5760’/1.9 miles)

12:45 PM -Climbers Trail junction (3.7 miles)

2:30 PM -Arrive at 6800’ camp on Squaw Creek below Hayden Glacier. As time, and conditions, allow we will be practicing rope team travel, passing through pickets and cravasse rescue after we set up camp.

Sunday

3:00 AM -Wake up.

3:30 AM -Start climb.(Photo left shows climber on rope crossing the Hayden glacier)

9:30 AM -Arrive at summit. (10047')

10:00AM -Depart summit.

12:45 PM -Arrive at 6800’ camp on Squaw Creek.

1:30 PM -Depart 6800’ camp on Squaw Creek.

4:15 PM -Arrive at Pole Creek Spring Trail Head (5300’).

5:15 PM -Dinner in sisters.

6:30 PM -Depart Sisters.

8:15 PM -Arrive in Silverton/Salem.

Driving directions: Drive east on highway 22 to Sisters. Just before you get into Sisters, turn Right onto Hwy. 242. To get to the Pole Creek trailhead: travel 1.5 miles west of Sisters, OR on Hwy 242, turn South, Left, on Forest Service road 15 which is paved at first, but the pavement soon turns into washboard gravel. Follow the well traveled forks (generally to the right) for the first few miles. At 7.1 miles you'll reach a "Y" intersection. Stay left at this junction (following the signs to Pole Creek), and follow the road to its end just past milepost 10 at the parking area for the Pole Creek Trailhead. There is a pit toliet at the trailhead but no water. Drivers: You will need a Northwest Forest pass to park at the trailhead - these can be purchased from a machine at the trailhead.

Required personal equipment - See List #3

NAVIGATION and WEATHER:

Middle Sister Weather forecast at 9000ft

Trip Profile

Trip distances and GPS waypoints

Route topos courtesy of the Mazamas: Middle Sister Route and Middle Sister approach

Silver Falls Adopt-A-Park August 27, 2011

2011-06-12T07:30:00.000-07:00

Enjoy a fun work party at Silver Falls State Park on Saturday, August 27th, 2011. The Chemeketens have officially adopted the park and this will be our first work day.

We will meet a ranger Brad at the South Falls Lodge at 8:30 am. Carpoolers planning on meeting at the South Salem K-mart parking lot (next to Jack-in-the-Box along Mission street) meet at 7:30 am and leave by 7:45 (Amy Palacios is driving from there in her Suburban). Mike Niemeyer email

This work party will have something for every ability and skill level. The park will supply all needed tools - you need to bring gloves and wear hike/work clothes (i.e. a tuxedo would be inappropriate.) It will be warm so bring plenty to drink, sun protection and your lunch. Bradd will have parking vouchers for you. You will also need to sign a park release form.
The event should wrap up no later than 3:00 pm - leaving some time if you want to explore the park afterwards. Looking for more adventure? The Park will have its annual star party that evening from 9pm to midnight. For details see Star Party.

Besides getting outside in a beautiful place with fun folks this activity also has the benefit of improving park trails, getting the club access to some really great park facilities for future Chemeketan Wilderness first Aid classes (see picture right) and we also get some signage in the State’s most popular park.
Park Trail Map and directions.

April 29, 2011 Skyline Trail (Spines-to-pines)

2011-05-15T17:57:00.000-07:00

April 29, 2011 I'll be hiking the skyline trail from the Palms Springs museum to the top of the Palm Springs Tram (about 8,000ft elevation gain.) Joining me will be Mike Weinberg. We are leaving at 3:30 am from the museum (being dropped off by Teresa Gaulin) we aren't leaving a car in the lot.

I have done a longer version of this trail before and am bringing my GPS with a track of the route from my last hike in 2006. We are carrying about 6 liters of water each, light windbreakers, food, first aid kit, headlights, treking poles and other 10 essentials (see photo). I am carrying a small bivy sack and a SPOT satellite rescue beacon. Mike W is carrying similar gear and has a cell phone. We expect to be at the tram mountain station a little before noon where my sister Teresa plans to meet us.
Use this link to follow our SPOT track in (almost) real time.

Weblinks regarding this trail, new rescue boxes or the longer cactus-to-clouds
http://www.shyamal.com/Hikes/MtSanJ_C2C/SanJacintoC2C.html
http://www.yelp.com/biz/cactus-to-clouds-hike-mt-san-jacinto-peak-palm-springs
http://www.myvalleynews.com/story/50940/
http://www.pe.com/localnews/stories/PE_News_Local_D_erescue20.2e3c8bf.html

Wilderness First Aid, Silver Falls State Park, May 14-15, 2011

2011-05-14T11:07:00.000-07:00

We had a successful first Chemeketan Wilderness First Aid training on May 14 and 15th, 2011 at Silver Falls State Park. The course ran 8 am to 7 pm on Saturday and 8 am to 5 pm on a rainy Sunday. Thank you to the Instructors, coaches, volunteer victims and energetic and and occassionally traumatized students. (See above.)

Trainers, Coaches and Victims

Mike Niemeyer, Wilderness EMT

Dorothy Brown Kwaiser WFR (WEMT-near completion)

Dr Dan Sewell, MD

Dr Mike Gabe, MD

Jackie Niemeyer, RN

Mike Rudy, RN ICU

Terry Walstrom (Firefighter, First responder)

Josh Behrens (EMT in progress)

Sarah Van Woy (EMT)

Greg Vanderwall (EMT)

Jason Wagoner(Park Ranger)

Carl Shepherd (Park Ranger)

Carol Vanderwall (Teacher)

Vicki Sink (Park Ranger)

Students Completing the Course

Joanne DeMay

Cathy Lazarus

Aislinn Adams

Sue Nelson

Scott Kelley

Brian Kier

Rod Graves

Jack Myrtue

Brad Dougherty

Courtney R. Carlson

Chonteh Rivertree

Jate Rademaker

Megan Beriault

Petra Berger

Scott Renfro

PREREQUISITES and PREPARATION
1. Must be 18 years of age or older
2. Must have the ability to lift 40 lbs
3. Must have current CPR certification
4. Course Text book: Mountaineering First Aid: A Guide to Accident Response and First Aid Care, Jan D. Carline. Mountaineers. This text is available at Powells for as low as $7.95 and at Amazon for $10.17 (less if you get it as an ebook). This text is focused on mountain first aid and evacuation and is about the right depth for a weekend course. Students will be expected to read the text prior to the first class. (See below for additional reading recommendations)

Course Wilderness First Aid Report form and Checklist

Reference Books:

Medicine for Mountaineering and Other Wilderness Activities , Mountaineers, JAMES A. WILKERSON, M.D 2010, 397 pages, $19.777 at Amazon.

Wilderness First Responder, 3rd: How to Recognize, Treat, and Prevent Emergencies in the Backcountry -Buck Tilton (Author)

Medicine for the Outdoors: The Essential Guide to Emergency Medical Procedures and First Aid
..Paul S. Auerbach MD MS FACEP FAWM (Author)

Wilderness First Aid, Third Edition: Emergency Care for Remote Locations AAOS

Additional reading/links

Wilderness First Aid - legal issues
Mazama Rope Litter

Hypothermia Guidelines - Alaska (This is an advanced protocol for EMS folks but provides a detailed discussion of cold injuries.)

Mt Hood South Side Route, June 6-8, 2011

2011-02-12T12:59:00.000-08:00

Our June 6-8th climb provided us with a window to get to a camp at 8,600 ft but the winds never subsided and we abandoned out 2:30 am start.

Pre-climb prospectus below:

Planning Meeting: 6:30 PM on Monday, May 30th at the Niemeyer house in Silverton. We will discuss teh plan and review gear needs.

Track teams progess during the climb via this link

Climb Schedule:

Monday June 6th - Day 1 - Drive to Timberline Lodge and hike up to base-camp.

8:30am - Meet at Mike's house in Silverton. Go through individual and group gear and do final packing.
9:30 am leave for REI Tualatin to pick up rental gear.
10:45 leave Tualatin for Mt Hood.
12:15 Assemble at Timberline lodge Parking lot, have a sandwich, pick up permits and blue bags.
1:00 pm- Head up the climbers trail east of the ski area.
4 pm - Arrive at about 8,600 at the top of, and east of, the Palmer ski area. We will look for a suitable site and shovel-out a snow camp. Set up tents, melt water, etc. Get to bed early.

Tuesday, June 7th, Day 2 - Summit Day

Approximately 2am - depart from camp for summit.
Rope up at hogsback
Summit via old chute route (may use pearly gates depending on conditions)
Return to hogsback and get out of harnesses & ropes.
Return to camp
Break camp and return to Timberline parking lot.

Weather

Route:
Mt Hood S Side route compass tips here (Thanks to PMR)
PMR Mt Hood GPS
Track teams progess during the climb via this link

Old Chute Waypoints

1, HOOD01PARK, 10 T 601159 5020467, 5966 ft
2, HOOD02SILC, 10 T 601106 5022029, 6932 ft
3, Hood03Palm, 10 T 601424 5023583, 8540 ft
4, Hood04devk, 10 T 601873 5024807, 10219 ft
5, hood05gogsb, 10 T 601886 5024974, 10495 ft
6, hog2, 10 T 601934 5025034,
7, OC10663, 10 T 601951 5025070, 10663 ft
8, OC4, 10 T 601919 5025176,
8, Old chute 3, 10 T 601937 5025135,
9, OC6, 10 T 601922 5025235,
10, OC7, 10 T 601954 5025280,
11, Rdge1, 10 T 601987 5025289,
12, rdge2, 10 T 602015 5025274,
13, rdge3, 10 T 602064 5025277,
14, hood06sum, 10 T 602117 5025264, 11233 ft

(Portland triangle graphic from portland mt rescue at http://www.pmru.org/ )

Gear:
See List #3 (Overnight snow camp)
Leader will supply pickets, rope, stove shovels and wands for distribution among the team. Leader will also carry small bivy sack and sleeping bag and first aid kit, cell phone and SPOT rescue beacon on summit day.

Roster:

Mike Niemeyer (leader)

Dorothy Brown-Kwaiser

Guy Rodrique

Carl Shephard

Jimmy Copenhaver

Sample Mt Hood Climb Reports:
My Mt Hood climb of May 23
http://jessclimbing.blogspot.com/2010/04/hood-april-16.html
http://picasaweb.google.com/104469483779153526656/2010HoodClimb?authkey=Gv1sRgCK-1ur616oLWqAE&feat=email#

Middle Sister via Hayden Glacier, July 23-24, 2011

2011-01-22T08:36:00.000-08:00

On July 23-24th a team led by Mike Rudy (I was the leader assist) successfully summitted Middle Sister via the Hayden Glacier. This climb was rated S1 (Open to first year climbers).

For trip reports of past climbs of this route see:
Middle Sister 2010
Middle Sister 2008
Middle Sister 2007

From Mike Rudy's Pre-Climb prospectus:

Middle Sister - Elevation 10,047ft/3062m

Date: July 23^rd and24^th 2011 Sat. & Sun.

Leader: Michael Rudy, H: 503-375-0945, C: 503-428-1133 michaelrnclimber@yahoo.com

Leader assist: Mike Niemeyer, mwniemeyer@frontier.com

Route/Rating/Elevation gain

Route: North ridge via the Hayden glacier from the Pole creek trail head.

Rated: S1, Grade IV (V for this trip)

Elevation gain from trail head: 4560ft/1390m

Climbing Roster

1. Michael Rudy, michaelrnclimber@yahoo.com

2. Mike Niemeyer, mwniemeyer@frontier.com

3. Jack Myrtue, jackmyrtue@hotmail.com

4. Josiah Faville, josiah.faville@gmail.com

5. Max Ritchie, oregonocean@gmail.com

6. Jason Kabbes, jkabbes@gmail.com
7. Ryan Collier' <Ryan@collier-law.com>

Overview

Middle Sister is the middle and shortest of a series of 3 volcanic peaks rising just over 10,000 ft. in the Cascades of Central Oregon west of Bend. The easiest route is the North Ridge Route which is accessed via Hayden Glacier on the east side. This route is an easy glacier climb to a saddle between North and Middle Sister. The North ridge is then a walk up a snow, cinder and small rock hopping ridge.

Getting There

Carpooling is recommended - Drive from Salem to Sisters. Just before you get into Sisters, turn Right onto Hwy. 242. To get to the Pole Creek trailhead (for the east side approach): travel 1.5 miles west of Sisters, OR on Hwy 242, turn South, Left, on Forest Service road 15 which is paved at first, but the pavement soon yields to trademark Central Oregon washboard gravel. Follow the road for 7.1 miles, where you'll reach a "Y" intersection. Stay left at the junction (following the signs to Pole Creek), and follow the road to its end just past milepost 10 at the parking area for the Pole Creek Trailhead. I plan to spend the night at the trail head Fri. night. There is plenty of space and no cost for this. There is no running water and only pit toilets. I do have cell service in that area if you need to contact me. You will need a Northwest Forest Pass to park at the trail head.

Itinerary

Saturday July 23rd: Meet at the Pole Creek trail head at 7:00am. We will do final checks and distribute group gear. Start out from trail head no later than 7:30am. We will travel South at a moderate pace along the Pole creek/Green Lakes trail to the soap creek crossing, approx. 2miles. Here we will take a short break, snack and replenish water. This may be the last spot for running water. The rest of the way you will probably have to melt snow for your water. PLAN ACCORDINGLY. Then we will travel approx. another two miles to the climbers trail cutoff. Here we turn West, Right, and travel 1.5-2 miles out of the trees to camp. We will be probably be camping on snow at approx. 7000-7500ft. Again there may not be any running streams at this point so be ready to melt snow for your water needs.

Sunday July 24th: Early AM wake up to be determined Sat. eve, probably 4:00am start time out of camp. In the morning eat, gather gear, and get ready for summit attempt. Pack, ice axe, crampons and harness, as well as plenty of water, at least 2 liters, food and layers of clothing for possible windy conditions at the summit. I suggest having most of this done the night before. We will spend some time at the summit as conditions and time schedule allows, then descend the way we came up back to camp. Absolute turnaround time is 11:00am no matter where we are on the mountain on Sun. Back at camp we will rest up a bit, re-hydrate, eat, pack up and then hike out to the trail head. At the trail head I will hand out Summit Certificates and then we can drive into Sisters to have dinner.

Equipment

The Ten Essentials (refer to hand book)

Water & Food

q wide mouth bottles, liter size, 2

q food for two days along with easily accessible trail snacking food.

q extra food

q hydration system OK(optional)

q Cooking system of choice with larger pot to melt snow in.

q Water filter/tablets(optional)

Clothing

q boots, heavy leather or plastic must be crampon compatible

q gaiters

q waterproof gloves or mittens, warm

q fleece gloves

q hat, sun, covers neck & ears

q hat, warm, balaclava

q ski goggles(optional)

q jacket, waterproof breathable shell

q jacket, warm synthetic

q long underwear (e.g. polypro)

q long sleeve undershirt (e.g. polypro)

q pants, zip off legs are great

q pants, waterproof breathable

q socks, liner & spares

q socks, thick wool & spares

NO COTTON CLOTHING

Climbing

q pack

q helmet

q ice axe

q harness

q carabiners, oval (2 or more)

q carabiners, locking (2 or more)

q prusik slings

q crampons

q ski/trekking poles, (optional)

q sit pad, ensolite (optional)

q snow shovel (optional)

Handy Bags

q camera (optional)

q chap stick

q duct tape

q first aid kit

q handkerchief

q head lamp/extra battery & bulb

q pocket knife

q sunglasses/sunscreen

q tissue paper

q matches, waterproof

q fire starter (or candle)

q utility cord

q whistle (around neck)

q spare gloves/mittens

q watch

q altimeter (optional)

personal medications (for 3 days)

q compass

q map

q cell phone

Sleeping

q Tent or bivi (preferably 4season)

q Sleeping bag rated to at least 20 degrees

q Sleeping pad (rated to sleep on snow)

Group Gear

q Two 50m ropes

q Pickets

q Radios

References

Oregon High: A Climbing Guide, by Jeff Thomas, Book
USGS Maps: North Sister, Trout Creek quadrangles.
Green Trails Maps: Broken Top, OR. # 622, Three Sisters, OR. # 621
Three Sisters Wilderness Map, by Geo-Graphics
Deschutes & Ochoco National Forests: www.fs.fed.us/r6/centraloregon/

Emergency Contacts

911

Deschutes Cnty Sheriff 541-388-6655
Sisters Ranger Station 541-549-7700

CHEMEKETAN CLIMB REGULATIONS

1. Participant agrees to pay for the climber's own medical and/or rescue expenses, whether or not authorized by the Participant in the event of accident or illness.
2. Guests must sign a RELEASE FROM LIABILITY AND ASSUMPTION OF RISK available at the trailhead.
3. The Leader reserves the right to refuse to allow anyone to participate in the climb if the Leader believes that the person is not adequately prepared or suited for the activity.

Mt Adams Mazama Glacier via Bird Creek Meadow August 12-14, 2011

2011-01-06T21:03:00.000-08:00

THIS TRIP HAS BEEN CANCELLED AND REPLACED WITH A MIDDLE SISTER CLIMB TO ACCOMODATE MORE FIRST YEAR CLIMBERS

On August 12-14, 2011 I'll be leading a Chemeketan Club climb of Mt Adams via the Mazama Glacier. If the Road is open we will approach via the beautiful Bird Creek Meadow on the Yakima Indian reservation. This climb is rated S2. For pictures of the approach see my 2009 backpack in this area and for climbing route information see my 2008 climb (which featured a major forest fire.)

Driving: The plan is to carpool from the salem state motorpool to the ranger station in trout creek. Driving directions: From Salem, drive north on I-5 to I-84 East to Hood River. Cross the Columbia River, turn left on Hwy 14 for 1.5 miles, then right on Alt. 141 which merges with 141 in a few miles. Stay north on 141 until reaching Trout Lake, about 23 miles from the Columbia River. When you arrive at Trout Lake, stay left at the Chevron Station. Go one mile to the USFS Ranger Station. We will meet at the Ranger Station, register (Note climb permits are $15.00 each for S side routes - our route is exempt from that). We will leave cars there and pile into the back of my truck for the ride up a bad dirt road to the trailhead at Bird Creek Meadows where we will buy a tribal permit and park.

Check here to make sure Road 82 is open.

Directions to the Trailhead (edited from From Eyehike) -To reach the trailhead, go straight at the intersection of Highway 141 and Mt. Adams Rec Hwy, Road 82. At 1.1 miles, stay right at the road junction. You’ll see a sign for Bird Creek Meadows. At 1.4 miles, stay right again at another road junction. At 4.4 miles, you enter the Gifford Pinchot National Forest. Follow the signs to Bird Creek Meadows. The pavement ends 4.5 miles from the junction of Hwy 141 and Mt. Adams Rec Hwy.Continue on the main road, following the signs to Bird Creek Meadows and Road 82. Six miles after the pavement ends, turn onto Forest road 8290. About .6 miles farther, you go straight at a junction with a logging road. The road becomes dusty, narrow, and rough. At 13.2 miles, you cross over Bird Creek. After four slow miles farther, you come to Mirror Lake. Follow the road another mile to the parking lot at the junction of Trails 20 and 105. A self-pay permit box is at the trailhead. $5 day use $20 camping fee. Drive time is almost 75 minutes from White Salmon. trailhead GPS 10 T 621585 5112386 (NAD83)

Route: (Summit 12,276 ft) This climb is rated S2. The Mazama Glacier Route is the second most popular route on Mt. Adams. It is suitable for intermediate climbers and requires roped travel with ice axes and crampons. Hike and climb is about 15 miles round trip with ~6,800' elevation gain. It is a physically demanding climb. We will hike from Bird creek meadows to sunrise camp (8,300 FT - great views with a resident goat population)

SCHEDULE:
Day #1 – Friday, Driving and Approach hike to Sunrise Camp
6:30 am Meet at Salem State Motor Pool on Airport road between Mission and State streets
7:30 am P/U Jon in Portland
9:30 am Meet at Trout Lake Ranger Station, load truck for shuttle to Bird Creek TH
10:30 am arrive Bird Creek TH
11:00 begin hike at GPS 621585 5112386 (5680 ft elevation)
3:00 pmor so arrive at Sunrise camp GPS 618628 5115289 (8300ft) about 3.5 miles and 2,620 ft gain

Day #2 – Saturday – glacier ascent, summit, and descent
3:30 am Wake up and pack
4 am Rope up and depart camp (8300 ft) via Mazama Glacier
10:00 am Reach False Summit (Piker’s Peak – 11657’)
11:30 am or so Summit (12276’)
12:00 pm begin descent to Sunrise Camp
3:00 pm arrive back at sunrise camp (this day is about 4.5 miles and 3,976 ft gain & loss)

Day #3 - Sunday
7:30 am break camp
10:30 am Return to cars
11:30 am Return to trout Creek RS
12:00 Food in Trout Creek (optional) and drive home
3 pm back in Salem

CLIMBING SKILLS REQUIRED: Roped glacier climbing, crevasse rescue, glissade. Participants are encouraged to review crevasse rescue, self arrest, and sitting glissade techniques prior to the climb. Anyone going on the climb must be in very good condition! Climbers not able to keep pace with the group may be turned back at the leader’s discretion.

EQUIPMENT:
See overnight snow climb personal equipment list #3. Shared camping equipment: Stove, fuel, cooking pan, water filter (iodine also OK or you may choose to just drink out of the creek), tent (unless you are using a bivy sack.) Group Gear: To be distributed by the leader at the trailhead and may be redistributed periodically during the climb: Rope, 5 pickets and a couple ice screws.

General information:
Web: Mt Adams Climbing General info; Climbing conditions
Maps: USGS 7 ½ minute series, Mt. Adams East, USDA Forest Service Mt. Adams Wilderness map, Green Trails Mt. Adams #367S. Books:"Cascade Alpine Guide", Fred Becky; "Selected Climbs in the Cascades", Jim Nelson and Peter Potterfield (The Mountaineers, 1993); Climbers Guide to the Cascade Volcanoes, Jeff Smoot. Avalanche Advisory----OREGON: (503) 808-2400; WASHINGTON: (206) 526-6677

Local Weather

Camping conditions: There are 6-7 well fortified tent sites at Sunrise Camp (8,300') with enough flat area for many more. Running water is available via glacial melt at Sunrise Camp. Water purification (filter or iodine) is recommended. High wind is possible so plan your tent selection accordingly.

Extraterrestrials: Mt Adams is a well known alien aggregation area and the site of the ECETI Ranch, "located in the middle of an energetic vortex near Mt. Adams in Washington State, and is internationally known as a UFO and paranormal hotspot. Join us each night as we Sky Watch, and witness for yourself a UFO power-up!" What should climbers do if they encounter beings from other worlds during the climb? Is this an additional objective hazard? Does this increase the rating of the climb? What if I'm beamed into a hovering spacecraft and then dropped back onto the summit, will I still be able to get a summit certificate? Your leader will answer these and other questions you may have at the trailhead.

Cancellation: The Leader will monitor weather forecasts, and the decision to cancel will be made in town on Wednesday no later than 9:00pm. Check this blog for updates. If you do not hear from the Leader by this time, assume the climb is still on and meet at the location listed above. Be sure the Leader has your correct email address and check this blog if the weather is questionable.

Emergencies: If the party is late in returning from the mountain, concerned friends or relatives should contact Jackie Niemeyer at 503-930-8782 or the Mt. Adams Ranger District, Trout Lake Ranger Station at 509-395-3400. If the party is in trouble leader will activate SPOT satellite beacon. Leader is also carrying GPS and cell phone. Mt. Adams Ranger District: (509) 395-3400; Yakima County Sheriff: (800)572-0490 (Search and Rescue); Trout Lake EMTs and First Responders: 911

First Aid Forms & Cheat Sheets

2010-12-31T12:17:00.000-08:00

Patient Notes/SOAP Notes:

Mike Niemeyer Wilderness First Aid Checklist & report form
Chemeketan Patient Report Forms (Click to open)

Mazama SOAP Note Form

Assessment Forms/Checklists/cheat sheets

Mt Washington July 3, 2010

2010-06-30T19:46:00.000-07:00

On July 3rd we had a successful summit of Mt Washnigton for Tim Smith on his provisional lead . We encountered snow on the upper trail but were able to get to teh summit block without ice axe or crampons. Snow on teh first pitch required Tim to lead out on a "new' route to the first rappel ledge. Good rap webbing and rings in place for the descent. Our SPOT II location on this link during the climb.

A summary of Tim's prospectus below:

Climb Team:
1, Tim Smith
2, Mike Niemeyer
3, Justin Clark
4, Chad Mangers
5, Ryan Osborn
6, Robyn Smith

Schedule:

6:30am, We will start by hiking south on the PCT for 3.5 mi. to a climbers cairn marking the climbers trail.

Mt Hood South Side, May 23-24, 2010

2009-12-17T10:35:00.000-08:00

May 23-24, 2010 I led a "State employees" climb of Mt. Hood via the South Side Route. Post-holing up to the hogsback put us behind schedule and I made the call to turn around as the sun was hitting the upper slopes above us. Great team. Everyone took a turn plowing through the loose snow.

Pre-climb Prospectus below

Schedule:

Sunday

8:00 am Carpool (Mike and Guy) for Mazama lodge. (Tom and Paul leave from Portland)

10:15 am check into Mazama Lodge

11:30 am practice skills on slope behind Lodge (or other suitable locaton)

2:00 pm or so - Done with skills practice. Organize gear and Rest

11:30 pm leave lodge to Timberline.

Midnight - Meet at the Climbers register packed and ready to move out.

Monday

6 am or so - Summit

9:30 am - Return to Timberline parking lot

10:30 am - return to Mazama Lodge for showers,

12:00 - Head back to Salem

3:00 pm or so - arrive back at Salem State motorpool

Lodging:

You will need to make your own arrangements to stay at the Mazama Lodge. Mazamas do accept online reservations but I recommend waiting. The dorm rooms usually have space available and if we need to cancel due to weather you won't be stuck with a fee. You’ll need a duffel bag that you can carry into the lodge (short hike but can be icy) with your sleeping bag, extra socks (they don’t allow shoes upstairs in the lodge) ear plugs (dorm style sleeping) towel and toiletries. You will also need a cheap pair of rain pants for our self-arrest practice (We don’t want to be climbing that night in wet gear.) The lodge offers meals but recommend you bring some snacks and a sandwich in case their meal times don’t fit with our schedule.

Weather

Route:

See route map and GPS waypoints here

Mt Hood S Side route compass tips here (thanks to PMR)

Track teams progress in real time here.

Gear:
See List #4

Leader will supply 5 pickets, 1 shovel and one rope for distribution among the team. Leader will also carry light bivy sack, sleeping bag and first aid kit and FMRS radios (Channel 10 code 5) and SPOT rescue beacon.

Roster:Mike Niemeyer (leader)

Guy Rodrigue

Tom Balmer

Paul Balmer

Recent Hood Climb reports:

http://picasaweb.google.com/104469483779153526656/2010HoodClimb?authkey=Gv1sRgCK-1ur616oLWqAE&feat=email#

http://jessclimbing.blogspot.com/2010/04/hood-april-16.html

Mt Hood South Side Route June 26-27, 2010

2009-12-17T10:01:00.000-08:00

June 26-27, 2010, we had a succesful Chemeketan summit of 11,249 ft Mt. Hood via the South Side Route- old chute. Note the exceptional summit photo to the right. (Most team members recently took the Chemeketan Climb School advanced five-day summit photo clinic. Other climb parties on the summit day could only stare and wonder. Shown here is Geoff demonstrating the "I'm a little tea pot" technique; Jate and Danni doing the "I'm being car-jacked take the vehicle and don't kill me" pose and Mike with "Welcome to the US, please pull over there while we look in your trunk.")

Our party of four enjoyed a beautiful full moon on the ascent and warm temps. Clear skies made for solid snow - we put on crampons at about 8,000ft. The team was strong and we made the ascent in good time. We weren't alone at the top. The chief bottleneck was on the descent as we dropped off the summit into the old chute. Those familiar with the old chute know that there a several options near the top. The straight shot is steeper but less croweded on popular Spring days while the variation that veers East near the top lays back a bit and is an easier, and more popular, choice with a well established boot track. All parties were getting to the old chute route by traversing low off the hogsback through the hot rocks area. This makes for a safer and flatter traverse. This weekend the high traverse off the Hogsback was not even an option as the upper slopes were covered with avy debri. A few teams were climbing via the pearly gates without apparent difficulty. The bergschrund has opened up quite a bit.

The only incident was the leader's discovery that one team member had made the ascent with an Obsidian Club patch on her pack. After a few tense moments it was agreed that she could continue but we wouldn't rescue her if she fell in a crevasse.

Pre-climb prospectus below:.

Schedule:

Thursday Evening (approximate)

I'll be making our go or no-go decision based on latest weather and snow conditions. Please check this page for updates.

Saturday

2:00 pm - Carpoolers leave Salem State Motor pool (on Airport road) and head for Mazama lodge.

4:00 pm check into Mazama Lodge - we will also likely need to move cars to Gov Camp parking area

5:00 pm or so - dinner at Mazama lodge and then we catch a few zz's

11:30 pm leave Mazama lodge for Timberline
Midnight - Meet at the Climbers register at midnight Saturday night (Please be prompt and come packed and ready to move out.) Pick up permits and blue bags. I will distribute group gear and we will be heading out as soon as possible.

Sunday

8:30 am or so - Summit (We actually got there about 7:15)
12:30 or so - Return to timberline parking lot (We actually got back at 10:25 am)
1:00 - return to Mazama lodge for showers
2:00- head back to Salem (or nap at lodge)
4;00 pm or so - arrive back at Salem State motorpool if driving straight back

Lodging:
You will need to make your own arrangements to stay at the Mazama Lodge. They do accept online reservations but I recommend waiting. The dorm rooms usually have space available and if we need to cancel due to weather you won't be stuck with a fee. You’ll need a duffel bag that you can carry into the lodge (short hike but can be icy) with your sleeping bag, extra socks (they don’t allow shoes upstairs in the lodge) ear plugs (dorm style sleeping) towel and toiletries. The lodge offers meals but recommend you bring some snacks and a sandwich in case their meal times don’t fit with our schedule. No food in dorm rooms.

Weather

Route:
See route map and GPS waypoints here.
Mt Hood S Side route compass tips here (Thanks to PMR)
PMR Mt Hood GPS
Track teams progess during the climb via this link

Gear:
See List #4
Leader will supply pickets and rope for distribution among the team. Leader will also carry small bivy sack and sleeping bag and first aid kit and FMRS radios (Channel 10 code 5) and SPOT rescue beacon.

Roster:

Mike Niemeyer (leader)
Danni Harris
Jate Rademaker
Geoff Crook

Recent Mt Hood Reports:
My Mt Hood climb of May 23
http://jessclimbing.blogspot.com/2010/04/hood-april-16.html
http://picasaweb.google.com/104469483779153526656/2010HoodClimb?authkey=Gv1sRgCK-1ur616oLWqAE&feat=email#

Middle Sister, July 24-25 2010

2009-12-16T18:26:00.000-08:00

On July 25th, 2010 our mighty Chemeketan team of four summited Middle Sister. This was 13.6 miles rt with about 5100 feet gain (Summit Elevation: 10,047’.) We had great company, very warm weather and firm snow (on the ascent).

Roster:

-Mike Niemeyer

-Ryan Hatch

-Dorothy Brown-Kwaiser

-Dave Lee

Sherpa Jim Copenhaver (Jim hiked in with us to base camp and provided tele-photo support and helped carry ropes, is a massage therapist - great guy to have around.). The photos below include pictures shot through a birding scope from McKenzie pass by Dorothy's friend and fellow naturalist, Steve Shunk. You can see our team of 4 on the summit and ascending the steep pitch just below the summit. We protected that section with pickets and a running belay. Other climbers opted to solo it. It was very soft on the descent - I think the team appreciated having the anchors set. As we unroped at the base of this section on descent I sat on a boulder to take crampons off - when I stood up the boulder rolled straight at Dorothy. I can now vouch for her cat-like reflexes.

We had a very warm slog back to camp at 7,000ft where it was about 85 degrees. The hike out to the trailhead was hot and dusty and, just when the parking lot finally appeared and I was seconds away from a cooler of cold beverages we came across a German student taking surveys for the forest service. Dorothy was sympathetic to park management surveys so we were all obligated to fill the forms out. Time slowed down - I kept filling out a page and there would be another page of questions behind it. It was 95 degrees, I still had my pack on, the temperature inside my boots was 242 degrees and the survey asked me 156 questions about my wilderness experience. With the hopeful and eager graduate student smiling at us (thinking he had his thesis in the bag) I couldn't bear to write what I was really thinking "I found my experience at the trailhead better than being waterboarded but not as pleasant as a summer school calculus class." David then invited everyone over to his beautiful home near Sisters for dinner. A great end to the trip.

Schedule:

Saturday

7:15 AM -We met in Silverton at Mike's house to carpool

10:30 AM -Depart Pole Creek Spring Trail Head (5300’/0.0 miles)

11:10 AM -Green Lakes Trail junction (Tr 4070) (5900’/1.4 miles).

11:30 AM -Soap Creek ... Chambers Lakes Trail Jct.(Tr 4074) (5760’/1.9 miles)

12:30 PM -Climbers Trail junction (3.7 miles)

1:30 PM -Arrive at 6800’ camp on Squaw Creek below Hayden Glacier

Sunday

3:30 AM -Wake up.

4:15 AM -Start climb.(Photo right shows Ryan on rope crossing the Hayden glacier)

9:15 AM -Arrive at summit. (10047')

9:30 AM -Depart summit.

12:30 PM -Arrive at 6800’ camp on Squaw Creek.

1:30 PM -Depart 6800’ camp on Squaw Creek.

4:15 PM -Arrive at Pole Creek Spring Trail Head (5300’).

5:15 PM -Arrive at David's wonderful house for post climb meal.

6:30 PM -Depart Sisters.

8:15 PM -Arrive in Silverton.

From Pre-climb prospectus

Driving directions: from the State Motorpool lot on Saturday Morning. Drive east on highway 22 to Sisters. from Sisters, 1.5 miles west on Hwy. 242, then 5.6 miles south on F.S. Rd. 15, then 5.3 miles south on F.S. Rd. 1524. Drivers: You will need a Northwest Forest pass to park at the trailhead.

Participant responsibility: It is each participant's responsibility to be in good physical shape and have the skills and equipment (see below) to participate safely in this climb. A club release will be circulated at the trailhead for each participant to sign.

Required personal equipment - See List #3

Group Gear: The following will be distributed at the trailhead and redistributed periodically during the trip:

Ropes; Pickets; one bivy sack and one sleeping bag will be carried by the party on summit day; Radios (FMRS channel 10-5)

Emergencies: In addition to the personal gear and group gear (above) the leader will be carrying a SPOT satellite rescue beacon, GPS and cell phone (503-910-9726.) I will also be sending occasional satellite "check-in" messages to this blog during the trip. In the event of an emergency, I will send out a 911 signal from this device. Local Emergency Contacts: Emergency Contact Information: 911; Central Oregon Emergency Dispatch Center 541-416-6800; Deschutes National Forest, Sisters Ranger District: 541-549-7700. If the party is overdue my local (Salem area) contact is Jackie Niemeyer. She will communicate with the participant's families in the event of an accident.

Middle Sister Weather forcast at 9000ft

Track our progess real-time at this link.

NAVIGATION:

Trip Profile

Trip distances and GPS waypoints

Here are links to route topos courtesy of the Mazamas: Middle Sister Route and Middle Sister approach

My 2007 climb of middle sister.

My 2008 Middle Sister Trip description

Left - just before I stood up and the boulder I was using for a chair rolled towards Dorothy.

Big Horn, Goat Rocks Wilderness July 23 – 25

2009-12-16T10:07:00.000-08:00

CANCELED - On July 23 – 25 (Friday-Sunday) I'll be leading a Chemeketan Club Climb up "Big Horn" in the Goat Rocks Wilderness Area. This trip is rated R1. This is a chance to explore a new area – the Goat rocks, which are an alpine mountain group North of Mt Adams. Scrambling opportunities abound here. For this trip I’m planning on heading up “Big Horn” which is on a ridge leading up to Mount Curtis Gilbert. We will ascend a gully and chimney system on the south face. The only technical part is a short steep crack that is either Becky 4th class or Yosemite 5.4. Our approach will be from snowgrass flats and road 2150. If we have extra time and energy we might also grabb nearby summits like "Little Horn" or head up Mount Curtis Gilbert.

Tenative Schedule: Stay Tuned.

Driving Directions:

Gear: See list # 10 for overnight alpine rock trip.

Maps:
USGS Map: Walupt Lake.
Forest service Wilderness area Trails Map

Other links:
Forest Service, General Goat Rocks Wilderness Information
Summitpost- Big Horn Route
Summitpost - Goat Rocks general Info

Maxwell Butte Area Snowshoe Dec 13, 2009

2009-12-13T07:20:00.000-08:00

Mike Niemeyer and five friends will be snowshoeing in the Maxwell Butte area on December 13, 2009. Leaving silverton about 8 am returning about 3:30 pm. Plan A is to park near the Big meadows turnoff and take a trail to Fay lake. PLan B is to use a turnout just west of Maxwell butte parking lot. We will be driving a beige toyota Corolla. Carrying a SPOT beacon, GPS and one set of emergency bivy gear.

SPOT messages:

Latitude:44.46768, Longitude:-121.95133, GPS location Date/Time:12/13/2009 12:51:59 PST Click the link below to see where I am located.
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.46768,-121.95133&ll=44.46768,-121.95133&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Message:This is Mike Niemeyer just checking in via SPOT satellite device so you can see my location - Everything is OK.

Latitude:44.46464, Longitude:-121.95015 , GPS location Date/Time:12/13/2009 11:44:06 PST Click the link below to see where I am located.
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.46464,-121.95015&ll=44.46464,-121.95015&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Message:This is Mike Niemeyer just checking in via SPOT satellite device so you can see my location - Everything is OK

Latitude:44.46427, Longitude:-121.9676, GPS location Date/Time:12/13/2009 10:56:14 PST, Click the link below to see where I am located.
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.46427,-121.9676&ll=44.46427,-121.9676&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1 Message:This is Mike Niemeyer just checking in via SPOT satellite device so you can see my location - Everything is OK.

Latitude:44.46093, Longitude:-121.97654 , GPS location Date/Time:12/13/2009 10:11:16 PST Click the link below to see where I am located.
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.46093,-121.97654&ll=44.46093,-121.97654&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Message:This is Mike Niemeyer just checking in via SPOT satellite device so you can see my location - Everything is OK.

2010 Chemeketan Climber Goals

2009-12-01T12:24:00.000-08:00

I surveyed the Chemeketan Climbers group in December 2009 regarding our 2010 climbing goals and received 42 responses (5 active leaders, 2 non-active leaders, 2 provisional, 8 assistants, and 23 climbers.) Note that this obviously doesn't account for the interests of first year climbers - who we aren't able to survey. Here are the results:

This chart indicates the # of climbers who expressed an interest in a particular peak

In addition to the above list, the climbers also had an interest in the following:
1. Do one or two snow routes.
2. 6000-7000 M climb
3. Hard routes on Mt Hood and Mt Jefferson.
4. do more technical climbs in the north cascades.
6. Continue bagging Colorado Fourteeners and returning to climb in the North Cascades.
7. Big Walls, Solo or with partner.
8. Investigating new areas/mountains and introducing these areas to other climbers
9. North Sister, Baker

This chart represents the # of climb leaders or provisionals who were planning on leading a climb of each peak. As of this date looks like we will need more climbs on Rainier and Shasta to accommodate climber interest in those peaks.

This chart shows climber and climb goals for 2010 (Each climber indicated their 1st, 2nd & 3rd priority or goal. So, for example, 10 respondents listed "Hanging out with fun folks ..." as their #1 priority)

Do you have anything else you'd like to share with us as we plan 2010 climbs?
1. In order to better familiarize oneself with more of the items listed on climb assistant requirements more routes need to have some technical aspect, not just the walk-ups all the time. Rainier!
2. Lots of beginner climbs for the newbies. Was nice to have options this year.
3. More Rock days at Smith or closer locales.
4. Sunday only climbs at the closest mtns.
5. Some leaders need to lead more climbs (or maybe we should train more leaders) the calendar ought to be overwhelmingly full.
6. Don't shy away from climbs not on the 18 list for club climbs. If they are worth the scenery, fun, and different, I'd do them.
7. I feel that we need to offer a graduated snow skill builder set of climbs or practice days to keep newer climbers involved.
8. Rock skills build with Mike Rudy's intro to Smith and Scott Phillipp's Sport Climbing Classes.
9. Team building conditioning climbs, snowshoe, and ski trips would be fun !
10. I would like to see some weekday climbs if/when leaders are available on week days. Avoid the weekend crowds!
11. please recruit more hot chicks to climb school and beyond
12. I appreciate and enjoy the comradeship. Participants seem to help one another along with challenging themselves.
13. I always have great time, there is always a strong emphasis on safety and I enjoy group. Let's keep it up!
14. Overall I just have a goal to get out climbing whenever I can and to keep building on all the skills while enjoying doing it with great folks.
15. I would be interested in an aid climbing clinic.
16. I will likely offer leader training (all levels) through a "town meeting" format, and I'm willing to work with interested assistants and provisional leaders in skill building outings. ~John Petrie
17. It would be great to have more instructional opportunities for those who have done all the climb schools, ice schools, smith rox intros, etc. More stuff like the anchor building seminar at Climb School, maybe a club-sponsored avy class
18. I'd love to see some more structure surrounding the climb assistants, perhaps creating more of a glide path from assistant to provy leader
19. I like this survey.
20. Maybe ask if they are interested in single day climbs or multi-day climbs.
21 Get new climbers psyched for climbing. Improve quality of life for people in my portion of the planet.

Spring 2010 Cardio & Snow Skills Clinic

2009-12-01T10:28:00.000-08:00

On Saturday April 24th and Saturday May 8th, 2010 I'll be coordinating a "Spring Cardio & Snow Skills Clinic" on Mt Hood. This is an opportunity for climbers of all levels to test and improve their fitness and add to their snow climbing skills. Depending on the group’s experience and the snow conditions these skills may include things like: use of the ice axe on steep snow; crampon technique; building and moving through snow anchors; Intro to snow pits (avalanche assessment); building a hypo-wrap (first aid); or z-pulley (rescue). Since this is a training exercise and we are not venturing too far off the Palmer snowfield this trip will still go in less than perfect weather. (I'll post a no-go notice to this website if weather is truly awful.) Different skills will be covered each day and will depend on the interests of the group.

Equipment:

Schedule:
7:00 am - We leave Salem airport road park and ride (1100 Airport Road Southeast Salem, OR 97301-6674 - See Map) at and head up to Timberline parking lot on Mt Hood.

9:30 am We will be parking in the “dirt” parking lot at Timberline Lodge where we will gear up for a typical alpine climb (ropes, pickets, etc) and head up 2,000 ft or so, where we will do our snow skills practice.

3:30 pm or so we get back to the parking lot.
4:30 pm or so we wrap up with “Talk and eat like a mountaineer” lab at the Huckleberry Inn in Government camp. Participants are graded on their ability to include the most climbing terms in one coherant sentence. See Mountaineering terms dictionary at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glossary_of_climbing_terms
7 to 8 Pm Arrive back at the Salem Airport road park and ride lot.

Current Weather
Driving Directions

Recent My Hood Reports:
http://jessclimbing.blogspot.com/2010/04/hood-april-16.html
http://picasaweb.google.com/104469483779153526656/2010HoodClimb?authkey=Gv1sRgCK-1ur616oLWqAE&feat=email#

Roster:

Mike Niemeyer (leader)
Travis Klaas (April 24, May 8)
Roger Monette (April 24, May 8)
Dorothy Brown-Kwaiser (April 24)
Amanda Stanko (April 24, May 8)
Tom Balmer (April 24 or May 8)
Geoff Crook (April 24)

Danni Harris (May 8th)
Aislinn Adams
Ryan Hatch
Chuck Bennett
Jate Rademaker
Lisa Westerfield

Virtual Climb School: Glory

2009-11-29T20:16:00.000-08:00

Santiam Pass Area Snowshoe Jan 9, 2010

2009-11-23T05:56:00.000-08:00

Kerry Ketcham, Mary Wandel, Shelley and Steve Dougherty planned the following chemeketan club snowshoe:

Kerry Ketcham will be at the K-Mart lot on Mission at 8:00.
Schedule:
8:00 a.m. Depart K-Mart parking lot (north end) ... car pools encouraged.
8:30 a.m. Oatmeal Bar and coffee provided by Steve and Shelley at their home (30 minutes east of I5).
9:30 a.m. Depart for mountains.
11:00 a.m. Begin snow adventure. Snowshoe or XC Ski, destinations dependent on snow conditions. (Here is a link to my recent maxwell butte trip/maps) We will match skill/and fitness levels so there will be something for everyone.
3:00 p.m. End snow adventure.
5:00 p.m. Potluck dinner at the Dougherty's home. We want to encourage participants to bring a crockpot main dish, salad, bread, ordesert. Please email Shelley (shellene11@gmail.com) with your guestcount and what you plan to bring so that she can insure a proper balance in the menu. Dishes and utensils provided. Bring your own beverage.
6:00 p.m. Eiger Sanction Movie ... provided by Kerry Ketchum.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Eiger_Sanction_(film)
8:30 p.m. Depart
Special Notes:- We have four showers for those wishing to shower before dinner. Bring your own towel.- You can come just for the potluck.

Steve Dougherty

Virtual Climb School: Sponsorships

2009-11-22T10:14:00.000-08:00

Mt St Helens Worm Flows May 1-2, 2010

2009-11-18T09:57:00.000-08:00

I'll be hanging out with Bryan Snapp as he leads a Chemeketan Club climb of Mt St Helens May 1-2, 2010. For another example of this trip see my 2009 Mt St Helens Worm Flows Climb.

Roster

Leader: Bryon Snapp (Provisional Leader)
Assistants: David Braun (Assistant),
Mike Niemeyer (Leader Assist)
Thomas Davidson,
Cathy Lazarus,
Stephen Rockford
Chuck Bennett,
Josh Zielinski,
Kattie Probst,
Chad Mangers,

Driving Directions: (From Salem) Drive north on Interstate 5 for 75 miles to Woodland,
Washington. Take exit 21 (WA-503 E) toward Woodland/Cougar and drive East on WA-
503 for 28 miles to the town of Cougar. At the town of Cougar, pick-up the required
climb permits at the Lone Fir Resort. After leaving the Lone Fir Resort, continue driving
NE on Lewis River Road (Road 90) for approximately 6.75 miles. Turn left onto Forest
Road 83. After 3-miles, the road will appear to split at a “Y” in the road. Continue to
the right on Forest Road 83 and proceed for another 3 miles to the Marble Mountain
Sno-Park.

Mt St Helens Weather:

Proposed Route: Worm Flows
Chemeketan Climb Classification: S1 (Snow / Level 1)
Top Elevation: 8,365 feet
Elevation Gain: ~ 5,600 feet
Distance: ~ 12 miles

Itinerary

Saturday, May 1st

• 7:15 am – Meet at the Salem Motor Pool parking lot. Car-pooling is encouraged.
• 7:30 am – Depart the Salem Motor Pool parking lot for the Lone Fir Resort in
Cougar, Washington.
• 9:30 am – Meet at the Lone Fir Resort to pick-up the REQUIRED climb permits.
• 10:00 am – Depart the Lone Fir Resort as a caravan group and drive to the
Marble Mountain Sno-Park.
• 10:45 am – Arrive at the Marble Mountain Sno-Park.
• 11:15 am – Begin the hike to our base camp utilizing Swift Ski Trail #244. The
camp will be situated around the 4,000-foot level on snow. The decision to use
snowshoes will be made at the Marble Mountain Sno-Park.

Sunday, May 2nd

• 4:30 am – Wake up, eat breakfast in camp and prepare for the climb.
• 5:15 am – Leave camp and climb to the summit.
• 10:30 am – Arrive at the summit for pictures and an early lunch.
• 11:00 am – Depart the summit and return to camp. We will break down camp
and then return to the trailhead.

Emergency Contacts

• Skamania County Sheriff: (509) 427-9490
• Mt. St. Helen’s National Volcanic Monument Headquarters: (360) 449-7800
Special Note: Bryon will be carrying a SPOT II Emergency Beacon on this trip.

Track teams progess in real time here.

Chemeketan Climb School 2010 Schedule

2009-11-11T19:08:00.000-08:00

The classroom sessions of the Chemeketan climb school will begin at 5:30pm Wednesday evening, March 31. Registration will occur from 5:30pm until 6:00pm, at which point we'll begin the instructional portion. Both classroom sessions will be held at the clubroom, the Chemekeden, at 360½ State St., upstairs above Cooke's Stationery in downtown Salem. The tentative classroom schedule is given below:

Wed. 3/31
5:30 PM - student registration (Amy, Tim, Robyn)
6:00 PM - introduction and school context (Bill)
6:20 PM - terminology, demonstrations, pictures (Jess, Mike N)
7:15 PM - break
7:30 PM - pod break-out/knot practice (pod leaders)
8:00 PM - packing for one day climb (Jerry, Bryon)
8:45 PM - logistics and equipment review (Scott, Mike R, Jess)
9:15 PM - dismissal

Wed. 4/7
5:30 PM - gear swap, equipment distribution (Jess)
6:15 PM - reset den for class
6:30 PM - personal risk factors (Jerry, Mike N)
7:00 PM - climb fitness & nutrition (Amy, Cynde)
7:45 PM - field session logistics review (Mike R, Scott)
8:00 PM - pod break-out/prusiks, harness, knots (pod leaders)
9:15 PM - dismissal

Saturday Rock Session Schedule for Horsethief Butte April 10
Sunday Snow Session Schedule for Mt Hood April 11

Directions to Horsethief Butte from the Portland area
* east on I-84 to exit 87 (the Dalles and US197)
* north ~ 3 miles on US197 across the Columbia River bridge until it tees into SR14
* east ~ 4 miles on SR14
It's about 2 - 1/2 hours from Salem. Click the link to see the parking area along the road.

NOAA weather link for Horsethief Buttes:
NOAA weather link for Timberline Lodge/Mt Hood:

For additional details see the Chemeketan website at: http://www.chemeketans.org/climb_school.htm

Wilderness EMT/ Medical Person in Charge Program

2009-11-10T18:50:00.000-08:00

I completed the Wilderness EMT/ Medical Person in Charge Program on February 19, 2010.

North Cascades Institute at lake Diablo Pickets Range panorama by Heinrich Berann

Suturing Lab - injecting lidocane

Lake Diablo at Sunset

Mass casuality scenario

Diablo Lake

North Cascades Learning Center

Mass Casuality Scenario (Mark, Rick, Conner, Mike, Eric).

Dam entrance lights

Burn lab

More suturing..

Gamow Bag (Simulates descent for patients at altitude) I tried it out...

Bag fully inflated...not recommended for the claustrophobic (no exit or zipper on the inside) but then you'd generally be very sick (with HACE or HAPE) if you were in one of these on the mountain.

Evacuating "patient" via truck

Intellectually interesting womens EMT group

Cooper, Cory, James, and ??

Pyramid Peak

EMT Students teach you all about Ectopic pregnancy (Video).

Statman (Our medical manequin) is Busted!

Suctioning statman after his big night out.

Cory in the Rescue rig

The local rescue rig

Incident Command

IV Lab

More IV Lab

Car extraction

The Dinning Hall - Great View

Virtual Climb School: Why Climb?

2009-10-23T13:06:00.000-07:00

Virtual Climb School: Your First Climb

2009-10-23T12:16:00.001-07:00

Mt Washington August 22, 2009

2009-08-22T07:13:00.000-07:00

On Saturday, August 22, 2009 I led a successful Chemeketan club climb of 7,794 ft Mt. Washington. Roster: Mike Niemeyer (Leader), John Petrie (Leader assist), Bryon Snapp (Assistant), Jane Morris, Mark Sodaro, and Cathy Lazarus.

Leaving the trailhead a little after 7 am we enjoyed beautiful sunrise colors with fog swirling over Big lake and Mt Washington in the background. four or five miles later, as we cleared treeline and ascended the North ridge, we could see other teams already on the mountain. Arriving at the "notch" we geared up and waited briefly as a team of 7 ascended (an informal group of Mazamas with some ICS and BCEP students) the first pitch before us. We moved into the que and set up the first belay station as yet another team rappelled down the same route. Overall, all teams were courteousy and navigated around each other OK, but rockfall from climbers above and below was a constant concern. We also noted that every team took a different route on the first pitch, all of which appeared to go fine. We eventually topped out on the summit at which point Bryon Snapp broke out a lazer light saber (photo below-click to enlarge). In the background you can see John Petrie trying to talk him down.

By mixing some strong animal sedatives with chocolate we were able to get Bryon down. We descended the entire route in three rappels. Below, Mark on the second rappel, you can see Bryon below and to his left.

The rest of these pictures were taken on the hike out. We had very clear weather and great views all day.

Pre-Climb prospectus:

This is a relatively easy rock climb but requires climbers to be in good physical shape and comfortable doing rappels with exposure, climbing on a fixed line using a prussik. Its a long (12 hr car-to-car) but fun day.

The Drive:
We are meeting at the Salem K-Mart parking lot (25th and Mission Sts) at 5am, for carpooling, and drive up to the trailhead (see map, courtesy Vince Dunn.) Arrive at the trailhead at 6:45 am and leave the TH at 7:15 am. We will probably be back to the cars about 7:30 pm. Salem about 9:45pm.

Current Mt Washington area weather

Last minute fires to worry about? A good resource is the Inci-web website to see if there are any fires in our climbing area.

Approach (From Steve Doughtery's Website): Follow an unmarked trail along the lake for two or three minutes, to a junction with a second trail called the Patjens Lake Trail. Continue around Big Lake until the trail leaves the shoreline. At an obvious junction, turn left (east). (Continuing straight will lead away from Mt. Washington to Patjens Lake.) Head east for about five minutes. Several spur trails will join the trail from the west, but continue east until the trail splits. Take the right fork for two or three minutes to a clearing with a pile of dead logs on its south side. (The left fork continues around the east side of Big Lake). Turn right (south) in the clearing and follow a wide trail for five minutes to its junction with the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT). Follow the PCT south for 30 minutes (or about one hour from the road head), to a climbers' trail which goes uphill to the east. The climbers' trail is usually marked by a cairn and is just after a large rock on the left side of the trail. If you reach Coldwater Spring, the only year-round water source on this section of the PCT, you have missed the climbers' trail and hiked about 10 minutes too far. About 150 feet after leaving the PCT, the climbers' trail splits. The right fork can be used for gaining the west ridge or routes on the south face. Follow the left fork until it breaks out of the timber onto the north ridge proper. Drop onto the east face. Continue up the ridge for routes on the north and west faces. As you approach the summit pinnacle, stay on top of the ridge as long as possible. Skirt several towers to the west until you reach the north wall of the summit pinnacle. Move up a short loose gully to a notch just below the northeast side of the mountain. Move right (west) 30 feet and scramble up to a fractured ramp. (I consider there to be two ramps ... take the second.) Climb the ramp up and left 35 feet to the base of a rotten chimney. (Start of chimney is slightly overhung) Climb the chimney and move left, then up, to a ledge with a large block. The block usually contains one or more rappel slings for the descent. About 250 feet of scrambling leads to a second chimney. From the top of the chimney, scramble 100 feet to the summit.

Emergency Info:Leader is carrying a cell phone 503-910-9726 and a SPOT rescue beacon. I'll be sending out OK messages during the climb and can send out a 911 if we run into trouble (or come across another party that needs help.) Willamette National Forest Contact Information 57600 McKenzie Hwy McKenzie Bridge, OR 97413 (541) 822-3381. Linn County Sheriff: 541-967-3950. Detroit Ranger District: 503-854-3366

See my July 18th Mt Washinton climb for the full Prospectus and additional details See this link for equipment lists #1 (10 essentials) and #6 (One-day technical rock climb) Please be sure to have a prussik ready and a piece of personal pro (sling girth-hitched on your harness with a biner on the end) ready to go. Rock shoes optional.

SPOT Waypoints from our August 22nd 2009 climb:
-Latitude:44.3776 Longitude:-121.8811 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:08/22/2009 19:57:16 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.3776,-121.8811&ll=44.3776,-121.8811&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
-Latitude:44.3508 Longitude:-121.8654 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:08/22/2009 18:53:03 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.3508,-121.8654&ll=44.3508,-121.8654&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
-Latitude:44.3434 Longitude:-121.8447 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:08/22/2009 18:11:57 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.3434,-121.8447&ll=44.3434,-121.8447&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
-Latitude:44.3363 Longitude:-121.838 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:08/22/2009 17:17:43 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.3363,-121.838&ll=44.3363,-121.838&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
-Latitude:44.3333 Longitude:-121.8382 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:08/22/2009 16:57:00 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.3333,-121.8382&ll=44.3333,-121.8382&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
-Latitude:44.3392 Longitude:-121.84 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:08/22/2009 10:08:07 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.3392,-121.84&ll=44.3392,-121.84&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1 -Latitude:44.3776 Longitude:-121.8807 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:08/22/2009 07:09:25 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.3776,-121.8807&ll=44.3776,-121.8807&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1