Post-Climb report
We stuck pretty much to the schedule in the prospectus on the drivein on Saturday July 12, 2008. When we arrived at the Trout Lake Ranger station we were informed that there had been 250 climbers registered in the previous day for the standard South-side route and another 25 that morning before we arrived. We were grateful we had chosen the road-less-traveled via the Mazama glacier. To save wear and tear on the vehicles (but not the climbers) we left Brian's Honda truck at the ranger station and his passengers climbed into the back of my pickup for the bumpy ride up the rough single-lane dirt road to the crowded cold spring Camp trailhead "parking area" at 5,400 ft. The team was amazingly efficient at getting their gear together and we hit the trail at about 10:15 am (45 minutes ahead of schedule.) As this was my second outing as a provisional climb leader I was careful to count the number of climbers I had at the trailhead, as its club policy that you are supposed to come back with the same number. (We actually came down with one extra, Pat Leach of Seattle, so that gave me a bit of a buffer.)
At the junction of the South Side trail (#183) and the "round the mountain" trail (#9) we left the masses behind and headed east on untrodden snow following my GPS track from a previous trip. We basically stuck with the round the mountain trail, travelling East 1-3/4 miles through the A.G. Aiken Lava Bed. We then turned North and headed cross-country on snow & rock to the summer camp above bird creek meadows and an area just below a large moraine. On a tip from my leader-assist Keith Hill we followed a trail from that camp area and climbed up the lower part of the moraine (that variation is not reflected on my GPS track below - I'll update that with the track from this trip later.) This variation kept us below the Mazama glacier and saved us having to rope up. We dropped down the moraine to a splended, aqua-blue glacial pond about 700ft below Sunrise camp and took a very short break at this beautiful oasis. (A good leader can sense when people are starting to have fun, I reminded them that we were mountaineers and that we neede to continued on.) We traveled over the toe of the Mazama Glacier and arrived at Sunrise Camp (8300.’) We were pleased to find the ground free of snow. The sunrise camp area continues to be enhanced each year and Matt and Rebecca's spot featured a massive rock wall around, an extra room and their kitchen area even had granite counter tops. I talked with a team that had just descended the Mazama glacier and they reported firm conditions during the morning. After setting up camp we did "passing through a picket" and cravasse rescue drills, ate dinner and got to bed early under clear skies.
We awoke at 3 am on Sunday, July 13th. By 4 am we were roped into two teams and traveling with crampons up the Mazama glacier. We had ideal climbing conditions with clear skies, little wind and firm snow. We negotiated the crevasses of the lower mazama glacier traveling on the north (climbers right) portion of the glacier. (Another 3-person team was just as successful going up the middle. ) I placed pickets as we moved through the crevassed area and we maintained a slow steady pace to about 10,000 ft where we took a much needed break. As we contiued up the next snow slope we could get a view to the south and Keith and I noted a plume of smoke rising steadly from what looked like the Cold Springs campground area. We tried to get cell reception to call it in and get an update, but couldn't make the connection. We climbed up to Pikers peak and joined the legons of South-side climbers at about 9:00 am. We happily dropped our packs and arrived at the summit about 10:30 am.
After summit photos Keith was kind enough to tie everyone's crampons onto the outside of his pack to facilitate the glissade off the summit for the rest of us. We arrived back at Pikers Peak to find the fire below had grown significantly, flames shooting up well above the forest canopy. Keith and I reassured the less experienced climbers at this point with remarks like "Damn, I've never seen anything like that before..." and "This doesn't look good..." We then jumped on the awesome glissade rut that took us from over 11,000 ft down to the "lunch counter" at about 9'000ft. As we bombed down the slope, passing those laboring up the mountain, the banked turns and deep ruts allowed us to relax and take in the Towering Inferno" in-flight movie before us. Our concern grew as we got lower and it was clear our route was taking us directly towards the fire.
At about 7,500ft I was able to get cell coverage and called 911. I explained that we were descending towards Cold Springs Camp and directly towards the fire and asked for instructions. We were advised that the road was impassible due to the fire and that rangers were on the mountain and we should contact them as we continued down on the south side route. We were at 7,500 ft or so and about to move off of the snow field and into the forest. At this point a woman ran uphill past us screaming somthing like "The fire is out of control! There are injuries! Cars on fire! Run uphill! As fast as you can!..." and she continued running frantically uphill. We caucused with the team and were joined by another climber, Pat Leach of Seattle. Keith went on ahead with a radio (I had the other) to locate the ranger and we sought shade just at the snowfield/ forest interface, should we need to retreat uphill. Keith made contact with the ranger and we engaged in a frustrating 10 minute broken radio conversation Keith:"...ranger advises that you....immediately..." Mike: "Keith, what was that?" Keith: "..follow my steps down...but don't go near the..." Mike: "huh", Keith:"Just have everyone........right now........you....moron... " We ultimately communicated and the group decended down to the keith and ranger. A short steep snow slope gave Brian a chance to practice is full-pack self arrest technique, his slide somewhat abated by taking out Rebecca along the way.
We made it down to the ranger where we were advised that we needed to wait there till conditions improved. She said that they didn't know if that would be minutes, hours or overnight. We waited there at about 7,000 ft, counted about 8 power bars and half a bag of jelly bellies among the 9 of us (If you believe the information everyone volunteered.) Tim informed the group that his body was riddled with toxins, should the group resort to cannibalism. After about 40 minutes the ranger reappeared and informed us that the wind had shifted and that they wanted us to move down to cold springs right away where cars were being staged to evacuate. We descended towards the fire but, thankfully, the trail headed west and we ended up upwind of the fire when we arrived at the trailhead.
We didn't have to wait too long before our truck was allowed to leave. We passed fire crews and an area covered in red fire retardant fairly soon. Heavy equipment was being staged lower on the road. At Trout Creek we stopped at the corner restaurant and enjoyed real food and distributed the special Chemeketan aluminum foil climb certificates, awarded only to those who summit a glaciated cascade peak, inhale fire retardant and walk through walls of flame and smoke.
Pre-Trip Prospectus:
Current Route Conditions Mt Adams
Current weather
As of July 6th the road to the trailhead at Cold springs campground is open (I was up there today) and the first part of the trail was bare dirt with patchy snow. There were numerous parties comming down thesouth side route which they reported was in good shape. Bird Creek meadow is not yet open, So the plan is to carpool from the salem state motorpool to the ranger station in trout creek. We will pile into my truck for the ride up a bad dirt road to the trailhead at cold creek and go with the Mazama glacier up and Adams south side down as originally planned ( 12.5 miles RT and 6562 elevation gain.)
Driving directions: From Salem, drive north on I-5 to I-84 East to Hood River. Cross the Columbia River, turn left on Hwy 14 for 1.5 miles, then right on Alt. 141 which merges with 141 in a few miles. Stay north on 141 until reaching Trout Lake, about 23 miles from the Columbia River. When you arrive at Trout Lake, stay left at the Chevron Station. Go one mile to the USFS Ranger Station. We will meet at the Ranger Station, register for the climb permits ($15.00 each) and convoy to the trailhead at Cold Springs Campground (Follow the signs for Mt. Adams Recreation Area, and to “South Climb” trailhead.) NW Forest Pass for parking.
Route: Summit 12, 276 This climb is rated S2. The Mazama Glacier Route is the second most popular route on Mt. Adams. It is suitable for intermediate climbers and requires roped travel with ice axes and crampons. Hike and climb is a carry-over with 15 miles round trip with ~6,800' elevation gain. It is a physically demanding climb. In other words we will carry our full packs to near the summit, and return on a different route (the commonly-climbed “south spur”). While not as high as Rainier, this massive volcanic peak has about the same volume with Adams covering about 270 square miles.
PRE-TRIP MEETING - July 8th at 6:00 pm at the Chemeketaden in Salem. It's critical for a carryover trip like this to share whatever we can and pack only the essentials and are traveling as light as possible. I'm holding this pre-meeting to discuss sharing equipment, packing smart & light for a carry-over, crevasse rescue, itinerary, and carpooling. Bring a snack/beverage to share for this meeting, if you’d like. If you cannot come, please contact the leader.
CLIMBING ITINERARY:
Day #1 – Saturday, Approach
6:00 am Meet at Salem Motor Pool
9:00 am Meet at Trout Lake Ranger Station
11:00 am Leave trailhead (5540’), hike up south side climber’s trail to Round the Mountain Trail. Travel east on this trail 1-3/4 miles through the A.G. Aiken Lava Bed. Head cross-country on snow & rock and over the toe of the Mazama Glacier to Sunrise Camp (8300’) at the northwest end of the Ridge of Wonders where the Mazama and Klickitat Glaciers divide.
Daily mileage/Elevation gain: 6 miles/2800’.
Day #2 – Sunday – Full-pack glacier ascent, summit, and descent
3 am Wake up and pack up
4 am Rope up and depart on Mazama Glacier
10:00 am Reach False Summit (Piker’s Peak – 11657’)
11 am Summit (12276’)
12:30 pm Descend
4:00 pm Return to cars at Cold Springs
7:30 pm Return to Salem
Daily mileage/Elevation gain: 9 miles/gain 4000’/loss: 6800’.
CLIMBING SKILLS REQUIRED: Roped glacier climbing, crevasse rescue, glissade. Participants are encouraged to review crevasse rescue, self arrest, and sitting glissade techniques prior to the climb. Anyone going on the climb must be in very good condition! Climbers not able to keep pace with the group may be turned back at the leader’s discretion.
EQUIPMENT:
See overnight snow climb personal equipment list
Shared camping equipment: Stove, fuel, cooking pan, water filter (iodine preferable due to low weight compared to filter pumps or you may choose to just drink out of the creek), tent (unless you are using a bivy sack.)
Group Gear: To be distributed by the leader at the trailhead and redistributed periodically during the climb: Ropes, pickets and a few ice screws.
General information:
Maps: USGS 7 ½ minute series, Mt. Adams East, USDA Forest Service Mt. Adams Wilderness map, Green Trails Mt. Adams #367S. Books:"Cascade Alpine Guide", Fred Becky; "Selected Climbs in the Cascades", Jim Nelson & Peter Potterfield (The Mountaineers, 1993); Climbers Guide to the Cascade Volcanoes, Jeff Smoot
Camping conditions: There are 6-7 well fortified tent sites at Sunrise Camp (8,300') with enough flat area for many more. Running water is available via glacial melt at Sunrise Camp. Water purification (filter or iodine) is recommended. High wind is possible so plan your tent selection accordingly. Given the need to keep weight down leader will be using a bivy sack.
Cancellation: The Leader will monitor weather forecasts, and the decision to cancel will be made in town on Friday no later than 12:00pm. Check this blog for updates. If you do not hear from the Leader by this time, assume the climb is still on and meet at the location listed above. Be sure the Leader has your correct email address and check this blog if the weather is questionable.
Emergencies: If the party is late in returning from the mountain, concerned friends or relatives should contact Jackie Niemeyer at 503-930-8782 or the Mt. Adams Ranger District, Trout Lake Ranger Station at 509-395-3400. If the party is in trouble leader will activate SPOT satellite beacon. Leader is also carrying GPS and cell phone.
GPS Waypoints (These waypoints are from my 2006 climb of this route, units are UTM NAD27 CONUS) 
01-COLDSPRINGS CAMPGROUND-TRAILHEAD, 10 T 616119 5110038
02-5531ft, 10 T 616086 5110291
03-5760ft, 10 T 616382 5110241
04-5853ft, 10 T 616272 5110477
05-5747ft, 10 T 616305 5110539
06-5783ft, 10 T 616335 5110570
07-5908ft, 10 T 616311 5110810
08-6006ft, 10 T 616340 5111052
09-6160-jct, 10 T 616630 5111185
10-6185ft, 10 T 616805 5111176
11-6209ft, 10 T 616905 5111024
12-6234ft, 10 T 617496 5111036
13-6352ft, 10 T 617850 5111349
14-6423-exit_tr, 10 T 618216 5111488 (ROUND THE MT. TRAIL JUNCTION)
15-6562ft, 10 T 618231 5111761
16-6573ft, 10 T 618210 5111767
17-6832ft, 10 T 618390 5112358
18-6889ft, 10 T 618513 5112529
18-7018ft, 10 T 618590 5112725
19-7092ft, 10 T 618561 5112815
20, 10 T 618910 5113154
21-7382ft, 10 T 618885 5113373
22-7546ft, 10 T 618760 5113374
23-7724ft, 10 T 618465 5113669
24-8275ft, 10 T 618416 5114644
25-8376ft, 10 T 618318 5114742
26-8384ft, 10 T 618533 5115017
27-8366ft, 10 T 618614 5115006
SUNRISE CAMP 10 T 618734 5115113
29-8354ft, 10 T 618601 5115087
30-9853ft, 10 T 617634 5115731
31-10007ft, 10 T 617577 5115872
32-10259, 10 T 617423 5115990
33-10736, 10 T 617156 5116024
34-10775, 10 T 617147 5116054
35-10960, 10 T 617037 5116127
36-11025, 10 T 616968 5116129
37-11288, 10 T 616826 5116240
38-11337, 10 T 616803 5116240
39-11495, 10 T 616760 5116309
40-11506-packs, 10 T 616725 5116314 (DROP PACKS FOR RTN TRIP)
41-11561, 10 T 616688 5116449
42-11705, 10 T 616551 5116936
43-11825, 10 T 616488 5117034
44-12089, 10 T 616524 5117209
45-MT ADAMS SUMMIT12277FT, 10 T 616384 5117345
44-12089, 10 T 616524 5117209
43-11825, 10 T 616488 5117034
42-11705, 10 T 616551 5116936
40-11506-packs, 10 T 616725 5116314
46-9514ft, 10 T 617200 5115120
47-8097ft, 10 T 616586 5113559
48-7398ft, 10 T 616575 5112964
49-6710ft, 10 T 616569 5111997
50-6516ft, 10 T 616841 5111611
51-6485ft, 10 T 616801 5111507
52-6340ft, 10 T 616747 5111267
09-6160-jct, 10 T 616630 5111185
08-6006ft, 10 T 616340 5111052
07-5908ft, 10 T 616311 5110810
06-5783ft, 10 T 616335 5110570
05-5747ft, 10 T 616305 5110539
04-5853ft, 10 T 616272 5110477
03-5760ft, 10 T 616382 5110241
02-5531ft, 10 T 616086 5110291
01-Coldsprgs-TH, 10 T 616119 5110038
THIS TRIP HAS BEEN CANCELLED AND REPLACED WITH A MIDDLE SISTER CLIMB TO ACCOMODATE MORE FIRST YEAR CLIMBERS
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