Belaying and Bandaging: Mt Hood South Side Route June 26-27, 2010

June 26-27, 2010, we had a succesful Chemeketan summit of 11,249 ft Mt. Hood via the South Side Route- old chute. Note the exceptional summit photo to the right. (Most team members recently took the Chemeketan Climb School advanced five-day summit photo clinic. Other climb parties on the summit day could only stare and wonder. Shown here is Geoff demonstrating the "I'm a little tea pot" technique; Jate and Danni doing the "I'm being car-jacked take the vehicle and don't kill me" pose and Mike with "Welcome to the US, please pull over there while we look in your trunk.")

Our party of four enjoyed a beautiful full moon on the ascent and warm temps. Clear skies made for solid snow - we put on crampons at about 8,000ft. The team was strong and we made the ascent in good time. We weren't alone at the top. The chief bottleneck was on the descent as we dropped off the summit into the old chute. Those familiar with the old chute know that there a several options near the top. The straight shot is steeper but less croweded on popular Spring days while the variation that veers East near the top lays back a bit and is an easier, and more popular, choice with a well established boot track. All parties were getting to the old chute route by traversing low off the hogsback through the hot rocks area. This makes for a safer and flatter traverse. This weekend the high traverse off the Hogsback was not even an option as the upper slopes were covered with avy debri. A few teams were climbing via the pearly gates without apparent difficulty. The bergschrund has opened up quite a bit.

The only incident was the leader's discovery that one team member had made the ascent with an Obsidian Club patch on her pack. After a few tense moments it was agreed that she could continue but we wouldn't rescue her if she fell in a crevasse.

Pre-climb prospectus below:.

Schedule:

Thursday Evening (approximate)

I'll be making our go or no-go decision based on latest weather and snow conditions. Please check this page for updates.

Saturday

2:00 pm - Carpoolers leave Salem State Motor pool (on Airport road) and head for Mazama lodge.

4:00 pm check into Mazama Lodge - we will also likely need to move cars to Gov Camp parking area

5:00 pm or so - dinner at Mazama lodge and then we catch a few zz's

11:30 pm leave Mazama lodge for Timberline
Midnight - Meet at the Climbers register at midnight Saturday night (Please be prompt and come packed and ready to move out.) Pick up permits and blue bags. I will distribute group gear and we will be heading out as soon as possible.

Sunday

8:30 am or so - Summit (We actually got there about 7:15)
12:30 or so - Return to timberline parking lot (We actually got back at 10:25 am)
1:00 - return to Mazama lodge for showers
2:00- head back to Salem (or nap at lodge)
4;00 pm or so - arrive back at Salem State motorpool if driving straight back

Lodging:
You will need to make your own arrangements to stay at the Mazama Lodge. They do accept online reservations but I recommend waiting. The dorm rooms usually have space available and if we need to cancel due to weather you won't be stuck with a fee. You’ll need a duffel bag that you can carry into the lodge (short hike but can be icy) with your sleeping bag, extra socks (they don’t allow shoes upstairs in the lodge) ear plugs (dorm style sleeping) towel and toiletries. The lodge offers meals but recommend you bring some snacks and a sandwich in case their meal times don’t fit with our schedule. No food in dorm rooms.

Weather

Route:
See route map and GPS waypoints here.
Mt Hood S Side route compass tips here (Thanks to PMR)
PMR Mt Hood GPS
Track teams progess during the climb via this link

Gear:
See List #4
Leader will supply pickets and rope for distribution among the team. Leader will also carry small bivy sack and sleeping bag and first aid kit and FMRS radios (Channel 10 code 5) and SPOT rescue beacon.

Roster: