CANCELLED DUE TO WEATHER - I will be leading a winter, mixed climb (M1) of Broken Top (9,175 ft) via Green Lakes trail and NW ridge. This will be limited to climbers with snow and rock experience and is scheduled for the weekend of November 8-9. This is a 12 mile round trip and about 3,600 ft elevation gain. If the route stays relatively snow free we will try this as a one-day climb from the trailhead.
See pictures from my 2005 climb with snow on the route
You can find generic route information on summitpost at:Broken Top NW Ridge and Broken Top (General description)
Area Weather
REQUIRED EQUIPMENT AND CLOTHING: This will involve travel on snow and we may need snowshoes. We may also be camping on snow and will experience very cold conditions.
ESSENTIALS: Snowshoes, map and compass (GPS unit if you have one), whistle, headlamp with extra batteries and bulb, sunglasses and/or ski goggles, sunscreen and lip protection, personal first aid kit, waterproof matches/candle/fire starter, 2 liters of water, food and extra food, emergency blanket, insulated pad, knife.
CAMPING: Tent, pad and sleeping bag suitable for cold weather winter camping, group stove and fuel.
CLOTHING FOR COLD, RAIN, WIND, AND INTENSE SUN: waterproof jacket and pants (breathable - e.g. Gortex), wool or synthetic clothing (layers – absolutely no cotton), gloves or mittens, wool or pile cap, sun hat or bandanna, liners and wool or synthetic socks, gaiters.
CLIMBING EQUIPMENT: helmet, harness, ice axe, (second tool optional), mountaineering boots (insulated leather or plastic), crampons, belay device, prussiks (2 or 3), carabiners (2 locking and 2 non locking), trekking poles.
OTHER: Forest Parking or snow park pass if driving.
GROUP GEAR: 60m rope, 2-3 pickets, 2-3 ice screws, wands, radios, rock pro, shovel.
ESSENTIALS: Snowshoes, map and compass (GPS unit if you have one), whistle, headlamp with extra batteries and bulb, sunglasses and/or ski goggles, sunscreen and lip protection, personal first aid kit, waterproof matches/candle/fire starter, 2 liters of water, food and extra food, emergency blanket, insulated pad, knife.
CAMPING: Tent, pad and sleeping bag suitable for cold weather winter camping, group stove and fuel.
CLOTHING FOR COLD, RAIN, WIND, AND INTENSE SUN: waterproof jacket and pants (breathable - e.g. Gortex), wool or synthetic clothing (layers – absolutely no cotton), gloves or mittens, wool or pile cap, sun hat or bandanna, liners and wool or synthetic socks, gaiters.
CLIMBING EQUIPMENT: helmet, harness, ice axe, (second tool optional), mountaineering boots (insulated leather or plastic), crampons, belay device, prussiks (2 or 3), carabiners (2 locking and 2 non locking), trekking poles.
OTHER: Forest Parking or snow park pass if driving.
GROUP GEAR: 60m rope, 2-3 pickets, 2-3 ice screws, wands, radios, rock pro, shovel.
SCHEDULE: To be announced later...
CHEMEKETAN CLIMB REGULATIONS The climber agrees to pay for the climber's own medical and/or rescue expenses, whether or not authorized by the climber in the event of accident or illness. LIABILITY RELEASE AND ASSUMPTION OF RISK form.
The climb leader reserves the right to refuse to allow anyone to participate in the climb if the leader believes that the person is not adequately prepared for the climb.
EMERGENCY AND IN-TOWN CONTACTS: For conditions or in case of emergency, you can contact:911 or Deschutes County Sheriff 541-388-6655. Mike Niemeyer will also be carrying a SPOT satellite rescue beacon, which will be activated in an emergency.
ROSTER:
1.Mike Niemeyer (Leader)
2. Jess palacios (Leader Assist)
CHEMEKETAN CLIMB REGULATIONS The climber agrees to pay for the climber's own medical and/or rescue expenses, whether or not authorized by the climber in the event of accident or illness. LIABILITY RELEASE AND ASSUMPTION OF RISK form.
The climb leader reserves the right to refuse to allow anyone to participate in the climb if the leader believes that the person is not adequately prepared for the climb.
EMERGENCY AND IN-TOWN CONTACTS: For conditions or in case of emergency, you can contact:911 or Deschutes County Sheriff 541-388-6655. Mike Niemeyer will also be carrying a SPOT satellite rescue beacon, which will be activated in an emergency.
ROSTER:
1.Mike Niemeyer (Leader)
2. Jess palacios (Leader Assist)
