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Virtual Climb School: Your First Climb

Mt Washington August 22, 2009

On Saturday, August 22, 2009 I led a successful Chemeketan club climb of 7,794 ft Mt. Washington. Roster: Mike Niemeyer (Leader), John Petrie (Leader assist), Bryon Snapp (Assistant), Jane Morris, Mark Sodaro, and Cathy Lazarus.

Leaving the trailhead a little after 7 am we enjoyed beautiful sunrise colors with fog swirling over Big lake and Mt Washington in the background. four or five miles later, as we cleared treeline and ascended the North ridge, we could see other teams already on the mountain. Arriving at the "notch" we geared up and waited briefly as a team of 7 ascended (an informal group of Mazamas with some ICS and BCEP students) the first pitch before us. We moved into the que and set up the first belay station as yet another team rappelled down the same route. Overall, all teams were courteousy and navigated around each other OK, but rockfall from climbers above and below was a constant concern. We also noted that every team took a different route on the first pitch, all of which appeared to go fine. We eventually topped out on the summit at which point Bryon Snapp broke out a lazer light saber (photo below-click to enlarge). In the background you can see John Petrie trying to talk him down.


By mixing some strong animal sedatives with chocolate we were able to get Bryon down. We descended the entire route in three rappels. Below, Mark on the second rappel, you can see Bryon below and to his left.


The rest of these pictures were taken on the hike out. We had very clear weather and great views all day.






Pre-Climb prospectus:

This is a relatively easy rock climb but requires climbers to be in good physical shape and comfortable doing rappels with exposure, climbing on a fixed line using a prussik. Its a long (12 hr car-to-car) but fun day.

The Drive:
We are meeting at the Salem K-Mart parking lot (25th and Mission Sts) at 5am, for carpooling, and drive up to the trailhead (see map, courtesy Vince Dunn.) Arrive at the trailhead at 6:45 am and leave the TH at 7:15 am. We will probably be back to the cars about 7:30 pm. Salem about 9:45pm.

Current Mt Washington area weather

Last minute fires to worry about? A good resource is the Inci-web website to see if there are any fires in our climbing area.

Approach (From Steve Doughtery's Website): Follow an unmarked trail along the lake for two or three minutes, to a junction with a second trail called the Patjens Lake Trail. Continue around Big Lake until the trail leaves the shoreline. At an obvious junction, turn left (east). (Continuing straight will lead away from Mt. Washington to Patjens Lake.) Head east for about five minutes. Several spur trails will join the trail from the west, but continue east until the trail splits. Take the right fork for two or three minutes to a clearing with a pile of dead logs on its south side. (The left fork continues around the east side of Big Lake). Turn right (south) in the clearing and follow a wide trail for five minutes to its junction with the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT). Follow the PCT south for 30 minutes (or about one hour from the road head), to a climbers' trail which goes uphill to the east. The climbers' trail is usually marked by a cairn and is just after a large rock on the left side of the trail. If you reach Coldwater Spring, the only year-round water source on this section of the PCT, you have missed the climbers' trail and hiked about 10 minutes too far. About 150 feet after leaving the PCT, the climbers' trail splits. The right fork can be used for gaining the west ridge or routes on the south face. Follow the left fork until it breaks out of the timber onto the north ridge proper. Drop onto the east face. Continue up the ridge for routes on the north and west faces. As you approach the summit pinnacle, stay on top of the ridge as long as possible. Skirt several towers to the west until you reach the north wall of the summit pinnacle. Move up a short loose gully to a notch just below the northeast side of the mountain. Move right (west) 30 feet and scramble up to a fractured ramp. (I consider there to be two ramps ... take the second.) Climb the ramp up and left 35 feet to the base of a rotten chimney. (Start of chimney is slightly overhung) Climb the chimney and move left, then up, to a ledge with a large block. The block usually contains one or more rappel slings for the descent. About 250 feet of scrambling leads to a second chimney. From the top of the chimney, scramble 100 feet to the summit.

Emergency Info:Leader is carrying a cell phone 503-910-9726 and a SPOT rescue beacon. I'll be sending out OK messages during the climb and can send out a 911 if we run into trouble (or come across another party that needs help.) Willamette National Forest Contact Information 57600 McKenzie Hwy McKenzie Bridge, OR 97413 (541) 822-3381. Linn County Sheriff: 541-967-3950. Detroit Ranger District: 503-854-3366

See my July 18th Mt Washinton climb for the full Prospectus and additional details See this link for equipment lists #1 (10 essentials) and #6 (One-day technical rock climb) Please be sure to have a prussik ready and a piece of personal pro (sling girth-hitched on your harness with a biner on the end) ready to go. Rock shoes optional.

SPOT Waypoints from our August 22nd 2009 climb:
-Latitude:44.3776 Longitude:-121.8811 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:08/22/2009 19:57:16 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.3776,-121.8811&ll=44.3776,-121.8811&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
-Latitude:44.3508 Longitude:-121.8654 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:08/22/2009 18:53:03 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.3508,-121.8654&ll=44.3508,-121.8654&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
-Latitude:44.3434 Longitude:-121.8447 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:08/22/2009 18:11:57 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.3434,-121.8447&ll=44.3434,-121.8447&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
-Latitude:44.3363 Longitude:-121.838 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:08/22/2009 17:17:43 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.3363,-121.838&ll=44.3363,-121.838&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
-Latitude:44.3333 Longitude:-121.8382 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:08/22/2009 16:57:00 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.3333,-121.8382&ll=44.3333,-121.8382&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
-Latitude:44.3392 Longitude:-121.84 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:08/22/2009 10:08:07 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.3392,-121.84&ll=44.3392,-121.84&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1 -Latitude:44.3776 Longitude:-121.8807 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:08/22/2009 07:09:25 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.3776,-121.8807&ll=44.3776,-121.8807&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Mt Stuart, Cascadian Coulior August 14 - 16, 2009

August 14, 15-16, 2009 I led a strong team up 9,415 feet Mt Stuart via the Cascadian Coulior. Due to the approach this is a total elevation gain of 8,200ft! Our team enjoyed good weather on summit day and spectacular views from the summit. A big thank you to Jess Palacios for volunteering to be the leader assist on yet another Mt Stuart climb. This was also the last peak for my Chemetetan 18 Peak award - yahoo. Most of the band made it to the summit but we had trouble with getting the whole tuba section through the squeeze chimney (Interviewed five bands off craigs list before we found a group comfortable with the exposure.)

Roster
1- Mike Niemeyer, Leader
2- Jess Palacios, Leader Assist
3- Mike McHugh
4 -Andrew Trachsel
5- Amanda Blankenship
6- Jane Morris

Below, route-finding between the false summit and true summit.

An otherwise perfect climb was made slightly more challenging when my leader assist - Jess Palacios began experiencing hypoxia at 9,000ft. Below - Jess thinks he has just been named the high school prom queen.

Below - Andrew below the false summit.


Amanda during a break on the descent. A strong climber and a bridge engineer, Amanda slowed us on the approach a bit when she insisted on inspecting each log crossing and doing calculations. (shown below with her ever-present handheld 298 function scientific calculator)


Jane shown below celebrating good rock above the cascadian couloir. Actually, jane celebrates about everything. She supplied treats for the huge 18th peak bash we had back at camp.


Pre-Trip prospectus below

Current area Weather Report

Driving directions

Salem to N Fork Teanway River. (about 6 hr drive)
Start address: Mission St SE & Airport Rd SE Salem, OR 97301 End address: NFD 9737 Rd
1. Head south on Airport Rd SE toward Mission St SE/OR-22/OR-99e Bus - 49 ft
2. Turn left at Mission St SE/OR-22/OR-99e Bus - 0.8 mi
3. Merge onto I-5 N/OR-99e N via the ramp to Portland Continue to follow
I-5 N Entering Washington - 196 mi
4. Take exit 142A to merge onto WA-18 E toward N Bend/Auburn - 27.8 mi
5. Take the ramp onto I-90 E - 60.2 mi
6. Take exit 85 toward WA-903/WA-970/Wenatchee - 0.2 mi
7. Merge onto Sunset Hwy (signs for WA-903/Cle Elum/WA-970/Wenatchee) -
0.4 mi
8. Turn right at WA-970 - 0.2 mi
9. Slight right to stay on WA-970 - 6.3 mi( SR 970 north to the Teanaway Road.)
10. Turn left at Teanaway Rd - 7.3 mi
11. Continue on Teanaway Rd N Fork - 5.8 mi (Follow the North Fork Teanaway Road to the 29 Pines Campground where the pavement ends at a fork in the road.)
12. Slight right at NFD 9737 Rd -continue up Road 9737 to trailhead #1394, Esmerelda Basin at 4,200ft.


Schedule:


Friday, August 14th - Carpools Leave State Motor pool in Salem at 7:00 am. Arrive at Trailhead around 1:00 pm. Leave Trailhead at 2 pm and hike to camp at 4,800 ft near Ingallis trail, arriving about 5 PM. Set up camp.


Saturday, August 15th - Leave camp at 6:30 am and proceed up Cascadian col route. Summit around 1:00 pm. Return same route arriving at camp about 4:30Pm.


Sunday, August 16th. - Pack up camp and depart about 7:00 am. Arrive at car about 10:00. depart for Salem, arrive at park and ride lot about 4:30 pm.


Climbing Route: From the Trailhead follow trail #1394 for a short distance to the junction with the Ingalls Lake Trail (#1390). At the intersection with the Long's Pass Trail (FST 1229), ascend the trail to Long's Pass (6300'.) From here, descend the switchbacks to a basin at 4800' (some good campsites here.) From the basin, continue descending to Ingall's Creek. After meeting up with the Ingall's Creek Trail, turn right and hike down the valley for about 1/2 mile to a clearing, and the beginning of the Cascade Couloir ascent.


The following description is from http://www.ericsbasecamp.net/trips/MtStuart/MtStuart.htm "The word "Trail" may not be appropriate for the section from the top of the pass to the Ingalls Creek Trail. Travel east on FST 1215 for about a quarter mile to a clearing and an obvious path at its western edge. ...The route begins climbing through the clearing then reaches a large boulder field. Ascend the boulder field to the bottom of the obvious couloir above. The couloir provides a simple ascent (some easy class 2) to about 7700' where it merges with a larger gulley from the southeast (this is the SE route). Continue up to the base of a steep snow field and ascend it directly or skirt it on its left side (class 3) to the just left of the false summit (~9050'). Descend slightly and traverse on the south side of the East Ridge until the summit can be climbed to directly (class 3). While the SE route is rumored to be and appears to be the easier route, I have twice descended this route and have not found this to be accurate, therefore I recommend descending via the Cascadian Couloir."



GPS Route (NAD CONUS27) These are based on map navigation (not trail data.)
Esmeralda TH, 10 T 655630 5255565,
Stuart-1, 0.3, 349° true, 10 T 655542 5255981,
Stuart-2, 0.9 mi, 97° true, 10 T 656614 5255870,
Stuart-3, 1.6 mi, 0.6 mi, 6° true, 10 T 656694 5256869,
stuart-4, 1.7 mi, 303° true, 10 T 656512 5256982,
Stuart-5, 2.6 mi, 65° true, 10 T 657883 5257656,
Stuart-6, 2.8 mi, 92° true, 10 T 658118 5257655,
Stuart-7, 3.0 mi, 355° true, 10 T 658084 5257943, 5085 ft
Stuart-8, 3.1 mi, 47° true, 10 T 658291 5258150, 5577 ft
Stuart-9, 3.9 mi, 14° true, 10 T 658549 5259313, 8038 ft
Stuart-10, 4.1 mi, 349° true, 10 T 658483 5259602, 8694 ft
stuart-11, 4.2 mi, 334° true, 10 T 658395 5259770,
Stuart-12-top, 4.3 mi, 297° true, 10 T 658163 5259880, 9416 ft

Required Equipment: See List #5 plus a helmet

General Route and Area Information
Cascadian Coulior Route info at Summitpost.com
General Information regarding Mt Stuart - Summitpost
Park map
Mt Stuart Info on Peakbagger.com
Mt Stuart Info at Wikipedia.com
20 peaks nearest Mt Stuart
Mt Stuart Topo (Mazamas)
Trip report on NW Hiker
Santiam Alpine club report
Trip report with good pics & map - NW Hiker
Aug 2009 West ridge trip report

Emergency contact information:
Cle Elum Ranger District, Cle Elum, WA 98922 (509) 852-1100
USFS Leavenworth Ranger station: 509-548-6977,
Nearest city: Peshastin (15.1 miles away)

SPOT Waypoints Latitude:47.4481 Longitude:-120.9247 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:08/16/2009 09:23:45 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=47.4481,-120.9247&ll=47.4481,-120.9247&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1 Latitude:47.46 Longitude:-120.9044 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:08/15/2009 16:41:06 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=47.46,-120.9044&ll=47.46,-120.9044&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1 Latitude:47.4692 Longitude:-120.8985 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:08/15/2009 15:21:36 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=47.4692,-120.8985&ll=47.4692,-120.8985&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1 Latitude:47.4714 Longitude:-120.8974 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:08/15/2009 14:51:18 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=47.4714,-120.8974&ll=47.4714,-120.8974&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1 Latitude:47.4754 Longitude:-120.9025 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:08/15/2009 12:54:38 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=47.4754,-120.9025&ll=47.4754,-120.9025&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1 Latitude:47.472 Longitude:-120.8976 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:08/15/2009 11:14:53 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=47.472,-120.8976&ll=47.472,-120.8976&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1 Latitude:47.4685 Longitude:-120.8985 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:08/15/2009 10:16:28 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=47.4685,-120.8985&ll=47.4685,-120.8985&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1 Latitude:47.4627 Longitude:-120.9015 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:08/15/2009 08:20:08 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=47.4627,-120.9015&ll=47.4627,-120.9015&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1 Latitude:47.4598 Longitude:-120.9045 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:08/15/2009 07:45:54 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=47.4598,-120.9045&ll=47.4598,-120.9045&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1 Latitude:47.4563 Longitude:-120.911 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:08/14/2009 18:16:59 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=47.4563,-120.911&ll=47.4563,-120.911&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1 Latitude:47.4494 Longitude:-120.9255 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:08/14/2009 15:53:39 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=47.4494,-120.9255&ll=47.4494,-120.9255&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1 Latitude:47.4366 Longitude:-120.9372 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:08/14/2009 14:02:57 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=47.4366,-120.9372&ll=47.4366,-120.9372&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1 OK ESN:0-7352032 Latitude:47.4481 Longitude:-120.9247 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:08/16/2009 09:23:45 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=47.4481,-120.9247&ll=47.4481,-120.9247&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1 Latitude:47.46 Longitude:-120.9044 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:08/15/2009 16:41:06 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=47.46,-120.9044&ll=47.46,-120.9044&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1 Latitude:47.4692 Longitude:-120.8985 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:08/15/2009 15:21:36 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=47.4692,-120.8985&ll=47.4692,-120.8985&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1 Latitude:47.4714 Longitude:-120.8974 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:08/15/2009 14:51:18 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=47.4714,-120.8974&ll=47.4714,-120.8974&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1 Latitude:47.4754 Longitude:-120.9025 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:08/15/2009 12:54:38 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=47.4754,-120.9025&ll=47.4754,-120.9025&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1 Latitude:47.472 Longitude:-120.8976 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:08/15/2009 11:14:53 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=47.472,-120.8976&ll=47.472,-120.8976&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1 Latitude:47.4685 Longitude:-120.8985 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:08/15/2009 10:16:28 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=47.4685,-120.8985&ll=47.4685,-120.8985&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1 Latitude:47.4627 Longitude:-120.9015 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:08/15/2009 08:20:08 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=47.4627,-120.9015&ll=47.4627,-120.9015&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1 Latitude:47.4598 Longitude:-120.9045 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:08/15/2009 07:45:54 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=47.4598,-120.9045&ll=47.4598,-120.9045&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1 Latitude:47.4563 Longitude:-120.911 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:08/14/2009 18:16:59 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=47.4563,-120.911&ll=47.4563,-120.911&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1 Latitude:47.4494 Longitude:-120.9255 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:08/14/2009 15:53:39 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=47.4494,-120.9255&ll=47.4494,-120.9255&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1 Latitude:47.4366 Longitude:-120.9372 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:08/14/2009 14:02:57 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=47.4366,-120.9372&ll=47.4366,-120.9372&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Lassen Peak, August 2-7, 2009

The week of August 2nd, 2009 we will be climbing 10,457 ft Lassen Peak and doing day hikes/climbs in the area. (We are staying at the Manzanita Lake Campground.) We will also be doing some rock climbing in the South Lake Tahoe Area August 8-11.
LASSEN AREA INFO
South Lake Tahoe

Mt Rainier, Kautz Glacier July 23-25, 2009


July 23-25th we had a successful summit of Mt Rainier via the Kautz Glacier. (See below for pre-trip prospectus). Thanks Derek for the photos, great leadership from Wim & Terry and a team that was always ready to help out.
Roster
Wim Aarts (Leader)
Terry Donahe (Assistant leader)
Jim Pennington
Katie Mills
Derek Castonguay
Tara Gedman
Mike Niemeyer

This was a challenging climb that including highlights like:

Boulders rolling at us as we ascend a gravel covered ice slope (below)

Once past the sketcy ice section of the approach we enjoyed a break on the wilson glacier (Below)


Summit day...

Climbing ice multiple pitches at 3am, after sunrise and again that afternoon as we descended, rappellling off of the ice features known as penitentes.


The mountain makes us pay for the last 500ft. As you can see from the pictures below, gusty headwinds near the summit were strong enough (50mph?) to knock us down. Terry was leading Tara and me on a rope team. He described the headwind as like trying to pull a 500lb sled uphill.


Dropping into a cravasse....As Terry is about 20 ft from the summit (on the small, non-threatening bulge on the crater rim - picture below) he suddenly drops into a cravasse, his armpits temporarily keeping him from dropping further. He reacts quickly and gets himself out, yelling at us over the wind "you don't want to go that way!"


My (and Wim's) tent blowing away. Upon returning from a very long summit day, and with only energy to eat and crawl into a sleeping bag, Wim tells me our tent has blown away. Idon't believe him until I catch up and see a ground cloth where our tent (with all our clothes and sleeping bags, etc) once was. Ugh. We had very high winds knocking us down on the summit and apparently our camp got some of it as well. Tara spots our tent a few hundred feet below in some rocks, one more gust away from ending up dropping into oblivion. The team rallies (including a wounded Katie) and goes down and helps bring the gear back up to camp - I'm unhappy about the extra exercise but thrilled that Wim and I still have something to sleep in. Below you can see the exposed location of our tent (Yellow Bibler) the night before it was carried off.


Carbs & Flowers - a happy ending!



SPOT Waypoints: (When clicking links below use the "terrain view' in google maps for the best detail.)







1. Return to Paradise Parking lot from high camp. Latitude:46.7853 Longitude:-121.7343 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/25/2009 13:28:19 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.7853,-121.7343&ll=46.7853,-121.7343&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:46.7915 Longitude:-121.7379 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/25/2009 13:19:28 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.7915,-121.7379&ll=46.7915,-121.7379&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:46.8014 Longitude:-121.7357 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/25/2009 12:54:42 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8014,-121.7357&ll=46.8014,-121.7357&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:46.8151 Longitude:-121.7424 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/25/2009 12:06:42 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8151,-121.7424&ll=46.8151,-121.7424&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:46.8162 Longitude:-121.7488 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/25/2009 11:11:27 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8162,-121.7488&ll=46.8162,-121.7488&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:46.8258 Longitude:-121.7573 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/25/2009 10:00:53 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8258,-121.7573&ll=46.8258,-121.7573&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:46.8321 Longitude:-121.7618 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/25/2009 08:44:16 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8321,-121.7618&ll=46.8321,-121.7618&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:46.8326 Longitude:-121.7626 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/25/2009 08:17:15 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8326,-121.7626&ll=46.8326,-121.7626&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Return to camp from Summit (about 11,000 ft) Latitude:46.8345 Longitude:-121.7628 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/24/2009 19:43:13 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8345,-121.7628&ll=46.8345,-121.7628&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:46.8369 Longitude:-121.7633 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/24/2009 17:34:49 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8369,-121.7633&ll=46.8369,-121.7633&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:46.8378 Longitude:-121.7631 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/24/2009 16:52:57 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8378,-121.7631&ll=46.8378,-121.7631&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:46.8377 Longitude:-121.7629 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/24/2009 16:22:57 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8377,-121.7629&ll=46.8377,-121.7629&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:46.8382 Longitude:-121.7619 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/24/2009 14:15:12 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8382,-121.7619&ll=46.8382,-121.7619&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:46.845 Longitude:-121.7579 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/24/2009 12:17:52 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.845,-121.7579&ll=46.845,-121.7579&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:46.8503 Longitude:-121.7598 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/24/2009 11:40:14 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8503,-121.7598&ll=46.8503,-121.7598&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
16. Summit. Latitude:46.853 Longitude:-121.7605 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/24/2009 11:18:24 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.853,-121.7605&ll=46.853,-121.7605&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:46.8476 Longitude:-121.7609 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/24/2009 09:59:20 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8476,-121.7609&ll=46.8476,-121.7609&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:46.8408 Longitude:-121.7604 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/24/2009 07:11:27 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8408,-121.7604&ll=46.8408,-121.7604&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:46.8369 Longitude:-121.7638 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/24/2009 04:10:30 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8369,-121.7638&ll=46.8369,-121.7638&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
At base of 1st ice pitch preparing to ascend. Latitude:46.8361 Longitude:-121.7639 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/24/2009 02:58:39 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8361,-121.7639&ll=46.8361,-121.7639&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Alpine start (preparing to ascend to summit) Latitude:46.8345 Longitude:-121.763 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/24/2009 01:30:51 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8345,-121.763&ll=46.8345,-121.763&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Arrive at Camp from Paradise (Bivy Site just below rap station South of Camp Hazard at about 11,100ft) Latitude:46.8344 Longitude:-121.7631 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/23/2009 17:30:54 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8344,-121.7631&ll=46.8344,-121.7631&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:46.8259 Longitude:-121.7579 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/23/2009 14:49:13 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8259,-121.7579&ll=46.8259,-121.7579&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:46.8218 Longitude:-121.7547 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/23/2009 13:28:09 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8218,-121.7547&ll=46.8218,-121.7547&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Lunch Break on Wilson glacier above sketchy ice traverse (ascending to camp). Latitude:46.8173 Longitude:-121.7485 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/23/2009 12:14:55 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8173,-121.7485&ll=46.8173,-121.7485&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Transition from nisqualy to Wilson Glaciers. Latitude:46.8169 Longitude:-121.7468 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known
Time:07/23/2009 11:58:45 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8169,-121.7468&ll=46.8169,-121.7468&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Glacier Vista (ascending) Latitude:46.8075 Longitude:-121.7356 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known
Time:07/23/2009 10:13:26 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8075,-121.7356&ll=46.8075,-121.7356&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
28. Leave Paradise Parking Lot for high Camp. Latitude:46.7862 Longitude:-121.736 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/23/2009 07:41:27 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.7862,-121.736&ll=46.7862,-121.736&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

******PRE-TRIP PROSPECTUS*******


From the leaders prospectus:
"I would like to drive up on Thursday July 23rd leaving Portland at 4:30am. We will start our climb from the upper parking lot near the ranger station after picking up the climbing permit which are available at 8am. We will hike up the Skyline Trail to Glacier Vista, approximately one mile. At that point the trail descends west (left) to the moraine and lower Nisqually Glacier at 6,200 feet. We will cross the Nisqually glacier northwest towards the Wilson glacier, access the upper Wilson Glacier and Wapowety Cleaver. We will ascend below and away from the Wilson ice fall then traverse and climb north, staying to the right of any rock outcroppings until the crest of the ridge is reached near 7,600 feet. We then climb north, toward the mountain, on the western edge of the Wilson Glacier. Depending upon how the climb is progressing we may choose to find a bivy site in this area, just below the snowfield called the Turtle, or just below camp Hazard at just below 11000”. From the bivy site we will climb up toward the Kautz Ice cliff and Camp Hazard. Camp Hazard at 11,300 feet is the highest established climbing camp on Mt. Rainier. There are, however, no facilities there and for the more-important reason of the objective danger, we will avoid camping at Camp Hazard. The site lies directly below the Kautz Ice cliff, and large blocks of ice have been known to randomly crash through camp. Travel time to this camp from Paradise: 6-10 hours. Depending how the team is doing climbing and at elevation, we will climb Thursday evening Friday morning or have a layover day on Friday. Wherever we choose to camp, be sure your tent is well tied down - many tents are lost on Rainier. Share tie down points (ski poles, stuff bags filled with snow, etc.) with your neighbors, and bring parachute cord to secure the tent. Save weight and leave the summer tent stakes at home. From our high camp near Camp Hazard, we will ascend to the ice cliff and traverse west into an ice and rock run-out chute. [rappel station notes] We will descend 300 feet in this chute to a ramp that allows easy access to the steep, rolling Kautz Glacier. We will not waste any time below the ice cliff or in the chute: this area is noted for frequent icefall releases. Once on the Kautz Glacier we will ascend two pitches of glacier ice or snow (45-55 degrees) to the upper glacier. Above the second pitch we will continue on gentle slopes toward the crest of upper Wapowety Cleaver at 13,300 feet. From the crest of the upper Wapowety Cleaver we will climb the upper Kautz/Nisqually Glacier north to the summit crater rim. From the top, we’ll return to our high camp via the climbing route. If we climb on Thursday night Friday morning, we will descend the next day, return to Paradise, have lunch and drive home. In case we have a layover day we will need to descend and drive home the same day as the climb. The total elevation gain on the climb is approx 9,000 vertical feet."

Emergency Phone numbers:
If the party is late in returning from the mountain, concerned friends or relatives should first contact Anna Maria Hundseder-Aarts or Florian Aarts.
You can also call the Mazamas Clubrooms, at 503-227-2345.
Mike Niemeyer will be carrying a SPOT device, sending "OK" messages to this blog as we go and can send a 911 signal out in an emergency.
Mazamas emergency pager activation: 503-227-2345, ext 3
Mt Rainer NP, Park HQ: 360-569-2211 ext 2334
Mt Rainer NP (after hours) Lewis County S&R: 360-740-1105

Links:
Rainier NP's web site: www.nps.gov/mora/ (with lots of climbing related info),
NOAA's Rainier weather report
Rainier route conditions: http://www.nps.gov/mora/climb/climb_cd.htm USGS Volcanoes, Rainier: http://vulcan.wr.usgs.gov/Volcanoes/Rainier/

Mt Washington, July 18, 2009


We had a successful summit of Mt Washington on July 18th with everyone summiting and returning safely, if you don't count bug bites. We enjoyed great weather and no crowds, in fact, no other climbers on the mountain - just a few hikers. (Scroll to the bottom for the full pre-climb prospectus. Photos from Chuck Bennett -Thanks Chuck.

Above, 7 am start hiking around a calm Big lake.
Below, Mike and Dan on the approach hike.


Above, Chuck and a nice view of the N ridge approach.
Below, the team ascending the N. Ridge above treeline


Above, Vince and Dan at the top of the second pitch.
(We ended up protecting the entire route in three pitches.)
Below, David, Vince, Tom Mike & Dan on the Summit


Above, summit view looking SE to three Sisters area.
Below, Big lake and our trailhead on the left (west) end of the lake.



Above Tom starting the first (Top) rappel.
Below, Vince assisting climbers about midway on the first rappel
(We did this using two 60-meter ropes to reach the rappel slings for rappel #2.)



David starting rappel #2 (above)
Mike assisting Chuck at top of rappel #2

Everyone safely back to the car (Not counting scrapes and bug bites.)


SPOT Waypoints from this trip:
Latitude:44.3775 Longitude:-121.8806 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/18/2009 19:30:20 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.3775,-121.8806&ll=44.3775,-121.8806&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1 Latitude:44.3272 Longitude:-121.8439 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/18/2009 18:16:03 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.3272,-121.8439&ll=44.3272,-121.8439&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1 Latitude:44.3374 Longitude:-121.8387 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/18/2009 17:07:45 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.3374,-121.8387&ll=44.3374,-121.8387&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1 Latitude:44.3335 Longitude:-121.8383 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/18/2009 16:42:26 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.3335,-121.8383&ll=44.3335,-121.8383&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1 Latitude:44.3327 Longitude:-121.8382 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/18/2009 16:32:57 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.3327,-121.8382&ll=44.3327,-121.8382&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1 Latitude:44.3325 Longitude:-121.8383 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/18/2009 11:29:57 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.3325,-121.8383&ll=44.3325,-121.8383&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1 Latitude:44.3373 Longitude:-121.8392 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/18/2009 09:52:57 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.3373,-121.8392&ll=44.3373,-121.8392&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1 Latitude:44.3426 Longitude:-121.8441 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/18/2009 09:18:12 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.3426,-121.8441&ll=44.3426,-121.8441&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1 Latitude:44.3582 Longitude:-121.87 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/18/2009 08:05:44 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.3582,-121.87&ll=44.3582,-121.87&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:44.3776 Longitude:-121.8804 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/18/2009 07:02:18 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.3776,-121.8804&ll=44.3776,-121.8804&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1


Pre-Climb PROSPECTUS


Schedule:
Saturday, July 18, 2009 we are meeting at the Salem K-Mart parking lot (25th and Mission Sts) at 5 am, for carpooling, and drive up to the trailhead. Arrive at the trailhead at 6:30am and leave the TH just as its getting light at 7am. The trip should take about 12 hours RT from the TH.

There is a pre-climb meeting on Tuesday evening July 14th at 6:00pm at the Brick in Salem to review required gear and skills and carpooling.

Roster

  1. Mike Niemeyer (Leader)
  2. Vince Dunn(Leader assist)
  3. Chuck Bennett
  4. Dan Domrose
  5. David lee
  6. Tom Spettel
Required Personal Gear - See this link for equipment lists #1 (10 essentials) and #6 (One-day technical rock climb)

Group Gear will be provided by leader and distrinuted at the parking area:
Radios (On channel 10 code 5), rope(s), rock pro and slings, map, wands, SPOT beacon.

Climber responsibility: This is not a guided trip. You are responsible for making good decisions, assessing risks and knowing where you are during the approach and climb. Carry a compass and map and refer to it when we stop for breaks. Alcohol and any drugs that cause drousiness are prohibited. Please let the leader know if you have a medical condition that could result in yoru incapacitation or that first responders should be aware of if you become ill. You will also be asked to sign a club release. See a copy here.

The Approach:
Take U.S. Highway 20-126 to the Hoodoo Ski Bowl and Big Lake turnoff on Santiam Pass. Turn south off U.S. 20-126 toward the ski area and Big Lake on USFS 2690. Take USFS 2690 to just before Big Lake, turn right at fork and drive to the end of the paved road (Trailhead and camping along lake).

Mt Washington is in the Mount Washington Wilderness in Willamette National Forest. The climb topo below is from Steve Doughtery's website. The hiking trail topo is from Vince Dunn. The main access to its slopes is via the Pacific Crest Trail.



The Climb:
This is an easy 5th class climb up the North Ridge of Mt Washington. There are two technical pitches, some scrambling and a couple of rappels involved. You will be climbing on a fixed line for portios of the climb, passing the prussik through the protection. There is a brief route description on Summit Post and a detailed description on Steve Doughtery's website. These vary somewhat as there are a number of route options between the first and last pitches .



Emergency Info:
Leader is carrying a cell phone 503-910-9726 and a SPOT rescue beacon. I'll be sending out OK messages during the climb and can send out a 911 if we run into trouble (or come across another party that needs help.) Willamette National Forest Contact Information 57600 McKenzie Hwy McKenzie Bridge, OR 97413 (541) 822-3381
Linn County Sheriff: 541-967-3950
Detroit Ranger District: 503-854-3366

Links:
Trail topo for Mt Washington (Mazamas website)
Current webcam (view from hoodoo ski area)
Summit Post
Detailed route description from 2007 climb

Mt Adams Sunrise Camp Backpack July 10-12




We did a Family backpack above Bird Creek Meadows July 10-12, 2009. From the bird creek meadows trailhead (5600ft) in the Yakima reservation we hiked to an alpine lake at about 8,000ft, just below the Mazama glacier on Mt Adams.

We spent day two doing a Glacier climb school and Mazama glacier exploration - see extreme ice climbing pics below...



Late Saturday we hiked down into timberline looking for a new place to explore - we found beautiful meadows but the clouds of mosquitos that drove us to an early departure.






Trip waypoints:

Latitude:46.176 Longitude:-121.4659 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/11/2009 11:56:15 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.176,-121.4659&ll=46.176,-121.4659&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:46.1742 Longitude:-121.4665 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/11/2009 09:43:20 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.1742,-121.4665&ll=46.1742,-121.4665&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:46.1698 Longitude:-121.4625 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/11/2009 07:37:25 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.1698,-121.4625&ll=46.1698,-121.4625&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:46.1703 Longitude:-121.4625 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/10/2009 18:51:32 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.1703,-121.4625&ll=46.1703,-121.4625&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:46.1697 Longitude:-121.4622 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/10/2009 15:13:34 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.1697,-121.4622&ll=46.1697,-121.4622&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:46.1629 Longitude:-121.4537 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/10/2009 13:25:58 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.1629,-121.4537&ll=46.1629,-121.4537&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:46.1539 Longitude:-121.4249 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/10/2009 10:58:15 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.1539,-121.4249&ll=46.1539,-121.4249&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1


Personal Gear
See Gear list #1 and #2. You must have a sturdy pair that are crampon compatible and a bike helmet. (I have most I have some plastic boots for feet men’s 10-11. )

To meeting spot at the ranger station in Trout lake, Wa:

Directions: From Portland, OR, take I-84 east to exit 64 at Hood River. Cross the toll bridge across the Columbia River and turn right at the “T” with Highway 14. Drive east for about 2 miles and turn left onto Highway 141, and follow the signs to Trout Lake. To reach the Ranger Station, stay on Highway 141 out of Trout Lake. The Mt. Adams Ranger Station is on Highway 141, on the left, .8 miles past the junction of Mt. Adams Rec Hwy and Highway 141.

Directions to the Trailhead (edited from From Eyehike)

To reach the trailhead, go straight at the intersection of Highway 141 and Mt. Adams Rec Hwy, Road 82. At 1.1 miles, stay right at the road junction. You’ll see a sign for Bird Creek Meadows. At 1.4 miles, stay right again at another road junction. At 4.4 miles, you enter the Gifford Pinchot National Forest. Follow the signs to Bird Creek Meadows. The pavement ends 4.5 miles from the junction of Hwy 141 and Mt. Adams Rec Hwy.Continue on the main road, following the signs to Bird Creek Meadows and Road 82. Six miles after the pavement ends, turn onto Forest road 8290. About .6 miles farther, you go straight at a junction with a logging road. The road becomes dusty, narrow, and rough. At 13.2 miles, you cross over Bird Creek. After four slow miles farther, you come to Mirror Lake. Follow the road another mile to the parking lot at the junction of Trails 20 and 105. A self-pay permit box is at the trailhead. $5 day use $20 camping fee. Drive time is almost 75 minutes from White Salmon.

Links to this area:
Weather for east slopes of Mt Adams
Current Trail Conditions
Yakama Nation Forestry Development Program, (509) 865-5121, ext 657
Mt. AdamsRanger District, 2455 Hwy 141 Trout Lake, WA 98650 (509) 395-3400

Other links:
http://bp2.trimbleoutdoors.com/ViewTrip.aspx?tripId=30814
http://www.nwhiker.com/GPNFHike79.html http://www.backpacker.com/october_2008_mount_adams_mountaineering/destinations/12593 http://mikessummits.blogspot.com/search/label/Mt%20Adams
http://www.oregonpeakadventures.com/the_gap_traverse.htm
"Trout Lake, now internationally known as a UFO hot spot, is located at the base of Mt. Adams..."

Mt Rainier, Kautz Glacier July 2-5, 2009


On 4th of July weekend 2009 I joined a mazama team led by Keith Dubanevich on a climb of Mt Rainier, Kautz Glacier. Other team members included: Jim Hashimoto, Ron Jenkins, Michael Hortsch, Steve Burton, and Kari Friedewald.

I tented with Michael Hortsch (who supplied the photos below). The team left Paradise parking lot at about 9:00 am and arrived at high camp on the cleaver just below the fixed line rappel and SW of camp Hazard at about 10,800ft at about 4:30 pm. Michael and I were both feeling the affects of the altitude and strenuous approach friday night. When our alpine start time arrived at 1 am Saturday Michael was having shortness of breath. I was feel fine but was clearly going to be slower than the rest of the team. I opted out of the summit attempt and we wished Keith well. Keith gave us the option of connecting with another party led by Aim Aarts. At sunrise I descended to find Wim and his team and they graciously agreed to let us descend with them. Michael began reviving incrementally as we descended and was 100% by the time we got to Paradise.

From the leaders prospectus: "The team meets at the Longmire Wilderness information Center 7:30 am Friday morning, we will start our climb from the parking lot near the Paradise ranger station. We will hike up the Skyline Trail to Glacier Vista, approximately one mile. At that point the trail descends west (left) to the moraine and lower Nisqually Glacier at 6,200 feet. We will cross the glacier northwest but will likely not climb up near The Fan, a large prominent snow chute that accesses the upper Wilson Glacier and Wapowety Cleaver, due to rockfall. Instead, we will stay on the Nisqually until we get to a bench that leads to the Wilson Glacier where we then climb north, toward the mountain, on the western edge of the Wilson Glacier. From the last major rock outcropping at 9,200 feet, we will climb up the snowfield, called the Turtle, toward the Kautz Ice cliff and Camp Hazard. Camp Hazard at 11,300 feet is the highest established climbing camp on Mt. Rainier. There are, however, no facilities there and for the more-important reason of the objective danger, we will avoid camping at Camp Hazard. The site lies directly below the Kautz Ice cliff, and large blocks of ice have been known to randomly crash through camp. Instead of camping at Camp Hazard, we will look for a site along the snowfield on the western edge of the Wapowety Cleaver. Travel time to this camp from Paradise: 6-10 hours. On Saturday, from our camp below Camp Hazard, we will leave at 2 or 3 am hike up on the left side of the rock wall to a ledge which over looks the ice fall. There is a rappel rope already set up. Going this way will save us about an hour and lower the risk as we will not need to traverse below the Kautz Ice Cliff.Once on the Kautz Glacier we will ascend two steep pitches of glacier ice or snow (45-55 degrees) to the upper glacier. Above the second pitch we will continue on gentle slopes toward the crest of upper Wapowety Cleaver at 13,300 feet. From the crest of the upper Wapowety Cleaver we will climb the upper Kautz/Nisqually Glacier north to the summit crater rim. From the top, we’ll return to our high camp via the climbing route which may include one or two rappels. Depending on time, we may hike out Saturday afternoon. But be prepared to exit on Sunday when, we will return to Paradise, have lunch and drive home. The total elevation gain on the climb is approx 9,000 vertical feet."

Emergency Phone numbers:
Mazamas Clubrooms, at 503-227-2345.
Mazamas emergency pager activation: 503-227-2345, ext 3
Mt Rainer NP, Park HQ: 360-569-2211 ext 2334
Mt Rainer NP (after hours) Lewis County S&R: 360-740-1105





SPOT Waypoints

Latitude:46.7858 Longitude:-121.7345 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/04/2009 13:39:41 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.7858,-121.7345&ll=46.7858,-121.7345&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:46.7852 Longitude:-121.7348 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/04/2009 13:05:25 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.7852,-121.7348&ll=46.7852,-121.7348&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:46.8011 Longitude:-121.7357 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/04/2009 12:05:57 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8011,-121.7357&ll=46.8011,-121.7357&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:46.8124 Longitude:-121.7402 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/04/2009 11:39:52 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8124,-121.7402&ll=46.8124,-121.7402&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:46.8235 Longitude:-121.7555 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/04/2009 09:46:01 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8235,-121.7555&ll=46.8235,-121.7555&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:46.8304 Longitude:-121.7598 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/04/2009 08:49:15 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8304,-121.7598&ll=46.8304,-121.7598&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:46.8323 Longitude:-121.7624 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/04/2009 08:15:20 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8323,-121.7624&ll=46.8323,-121.7624&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:46.8338 Longitude:-121.7625 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/04/2009 06:56:55 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8338,-121.7625&ll=46.8338,-121.7625&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:46.8338 Longitude:-121.7625 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/03/2009 18:13:41 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8338,-121.7625&ll=46.8338,-121.7625&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:46.8258 Longitude:-121.7575 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/03/2009 15:22:52 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8258,-121.7575&ll=46.8258,-121.7575&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:46.8173 Longitude:-121.7441 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/03/2009 12:12:33 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8173,-121.7441&ll=46.8173,-121.7441&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Some random Kautz Trip reports/beta:

Weather
Kautz GPS waypoints: http://www.climber.org/TripReports/2001/813.html
May 2009 attempt (Cascade climbers)
June 2004
August 2003

Mt Hood - Justice at Every Level 2009









Success! After innumerable weather delays we finally hit great conditions. Our Oregon Department of Justice "Justice at Every Level" team summited Mt Hood via the South-Side Old Chute Route on the morning of June 27th. It was a 12hr round trip (12:43 am to 12:45 pm the next day) Joe was feeling the effects of sleep deprevation and altitude and turned around at about 9'000 ft. We had very good conditions going up, clear sky, firm snow and almost no wind. Once to the hogsback area (10,500 ft) we watched a large group struggling up the old chute route - other climbers were trying to ascend around them. Other climbers said there was apparently 18 inexperienced climbers on one rope with one leader.

We roped up and ascended most of the slope in a good boot track protecting the team with pickets. About 1 pitch from the summit ridge the route split with most parties going right up a gully. This was a nice route as it avoided the exposed summit ridge but it was plugged up with climbers so we ascended the steeper slope directly above us using a high dagger technique. We arrived at the summmit, after the exposed summit ridge traverse, at about 8:00 am. We stayed at the summit about 30 minutes - great views, lots of smiles and no wind at all.

The descent was slow and cautious on the steep section punctuaed by occassionaly "ice" or "rock' calls from other teams. Ice and rockfall was not as bad as I've seen here before but still a concern. I was happy to get the team back to the hogsback and out of rockfall danger. We prepared for the long trudge to the cars.

Summit Team Members:
Julie Penry
Jack McDonald
Mark Williams
Mike Niemeyer
Joe McNaught (to 9,000ft)

( Keith Dubanevich, Doug Adair and Jesse Davis are also part of our mighty team but could not make this summit date due to scheduling conflicts.)

Trip Waypoints Parking lot to summit:

Latitude:45.3734Longitude:-121.6959Nearest Location:not knownDistance:not knownTime:06/27/2009 08:50:27 (US/Pacific)http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=45.3734,-121.6959&ll=45.3734,-121.6959&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:45.3727Longitude:-121.6981Nearest Location:not knownDistance:not knownTime:06/27/2009 07:46:12 (US/Pacific)http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=45.3727,-121.6981&ll=45.3727,-121.6981&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:45.3713Longitude:-121.6994Nearest Location:not knownDistance:not knownTime:06/27/2009 07:17:50 (US/Pacific)http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=45.3713,-121.6994&ll=45.3713,-121.6994&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:45.3682 Longitude:-121.6997 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:06/27/2009 06:11:11 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=45.3682,-121.6997&ll=45.3682,-121.6997&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:45.3604 Longitude:-121.703 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:06/27/2009 04:19:16 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=45.3604,-121.703&ll=45.3604,-121.703&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:45.3579 Longitude:-121.7019 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:06/27/2009 03:30:48 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=45.3579,-121.7019&ll=45.3579,-121.7019&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:45.3459 Longitude:-121.7048 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:06/27/2009 01:42:05 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=45.3459,-121.7048&ll=45.3459,-121.7048&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1


Pre-trip planning information:
Photos below are from the Oregon Department of Justice "Justice at Every Level" Climb team training day on Sunday February 22nd. (Katie Niemeyer joined the team for this exercise)

Video:DOJ Lawyer Arrests Self (barely)

video



































Mt Hood Conditioning June 6, 2009


I headed up Mt Hood June 6, 2009 via the south side route for a conditioning hike to the hogsback at about 10,600ft. I left the climbers registration area about 8 am. The Old chute route has changed in the last few weeks. the bergschrund is wide open (See above). Climbers are now opting to traverse from the low point on the hogsback (see picture below) and then ascend directly up the old chute. below the hogsback snow was soft. the old chute was icy, giving those trying to ski from the summit some troubles.

Latitude:45.3306 Longitude:-121.7085 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:06/06/2009 15:03:02 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=45.3306,-121.7085&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:45.3448 Longitude:-121.7048 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:06/06/2009 14:29:19 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=45.3448,-121.7048&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:45.3579 Longitude:-121.702 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:06/06/2009 14:05:49 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=45.3579,-121.702&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:45.3708 Longitude:-121.6991 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:06/06/2009 13:11:47 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=45.3708,-121.6991&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:45.3691 Longitude:-121.7058 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:06/06/2009 12:39:55 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=45.3691,-121.7058&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:45.3583 Longitude:-121.7016 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:06/06/2009 10:28:42 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=45.3583,-121.7016&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:45.3456 Longitude:-121.7045 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:06/06/2009 09:12:36 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=45.3456,-121.7045&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Mt. St Helens via Swift Glacier, May 30 - 31, 2009


On May 30-31 we had a successful Chemeketan Club climb of 8365’ Mt St Helens via Swift Creek/Worm Flows . The climb was 12 miles round trip with 5600 feet gain and a spectacular 4,00ft glissade decent. This was a non-technical "winter" climb to 35°. Though this route could be climbed in one day, we did a snow camp at timberline and made this an overnighter.

Roster
  1. Mike Niemeyer (leader) mwniemeyer@verizon.net
  2. Scott Phillips (leader assist)
  3. Rebecca Tryon
  4. Dan Domrose
  5. Michael McHugh
  6. Jonathan Myers
  7. Josh Zielinski

  8. Bryon Snapp was scheduled to be on the team but called and canceled at the last minute due to a case of diarrea. For more on diarrea see http://www.webmd.com/digestive-disorders/digestive-diseases-diarrhea (Coming soon: Audio upload of Bryon's amazing bowel sounds in a format suitable for cell phone ring tones.)

  9. Rick Slezak was also supposed to be on the team but he had to practice law. For a history of the origins of law begining with the code of Hammurabi see: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Code_of_Hammurabi

  10. David Braun was on the team but had to take the weekend off to move to Seattle. See: http://www.lonelyplanet.com/shop_pickandmix/free_chapters/seattle-moving-to.pdf

Mt St Helens, Marble Mountain, Driving Directions: We met at the State Motor Pool Park and Ride lot on Airport Road in Salem at 7:30 am on Saturday morning and drove I-5 north to Woodland, WA where we took Highway 503 east to Cougar where I picked up the permits at the Lone Fir Resort 16806 Lewis River Road.

We continued on Highway 503 (which becomes FSR 90) to FSR 83.


Turn left and continue 9 miles to Marble Mountain Sno-Park. (Don't take the road marked climbers bivouac.) Round trip drive distance is ~ 240 miles from Salem.

Trip report: We met Saturday at 10 am at the Marble Mountain Sno-Park located at 2,700’ elevation on Forest Road 83, 30 minutes northeast of Cougar, WA. Our route was the Swift Creek/Worm Flows. Wormflows route description on Summitpost.

I had scouted the route on April 26th at that time the road to the snowpark was bare pavement and the trail beginning at Marblemountain snow park was well covered in snow. Camps above Chocolate Falls are all snow camps with no running water. The trail was well traveled and marked, but late afternoon hikers were post-holing. Our April 26th party had hikers both with and without snowshoes. For another recent trip see Kirk Kraschel's May 9th Mt St Helen Pictures.

On May 30 we were having very warm weather, with the valleys in the high 80's and 90's and the mountain in the mid 70"s. Snow was spotty at the trailhead. We took the Swift Ski Trail, #244 to timberline.


We continued on Trail 244 to Chocolate Falls (about 3800') where the trail crosses to the west side of Swift Creek.

We continued up to 4050 ft where we set camp at treeline- most of us on snow but Mike McHugh was able to find a nice spot on bare ground. We were able to find running water via a short walk down to Swift Creek. We had most of the afternoon to kill at this point. Scott took a long nap, Rebecca did Yoga on a rock and others hung out by the creek.

(Below, we are about 250 verticle feet from our campsite)

On Sunday, May 31 we got up around 4:45 am, anxious to get up before it got too hot. We were on the trail about a 5:45 am. We carried, but never used crampons. Half the team used ice axes for the ascent and the others used treking poles.

We continued directly North on the first ridge to the west of Swift Creek and followed the ridges marked with wooden poles (poles up to 4,800 ft) and open snow slopes North.


Below, USGS Monitoring equipment about midpoint between treeline and summit.

We continued North to the crater rim at about 8,200 ft (in about 4 hrs.) The popular boot track had led us to the most direct point on the crater rim but this was obviously not the summit. We traversed west up and down the crater ridge, discussing which seemed higher as we went, until we came to on obvious high point that was 8,365 ft. (For a virtual helicopter fly over of the crater rim see: http://www.fs.fed.us/gpnf/mshnvm/video/immersive-media/vid1.shtml)

We donned a variety of glasside aids (trash bags, rain pants, roll-up sleds, etc) and Scott led us on a spectacular 4,000 ft, 1 hour glissade back to camp. It took us an hour to break camp and we got back to the cars about 1:45 pm.

Random Pictures (Mostly from Scott Phillips)

Below - the team starting out after a short break.


Scott, above

Rebecca

Below, Josh preparing a summit burrito

Jon on traverse



Above, Jon Myers appears to be choking a small 24" high green-helmeted elf like creature near the summit.

Below, view north towards Mt Rainier

Below, Scott Dan and Mike M

Rebecca in her "hey I just knocked over a 7-Eleven" attire, with Mt Adams in background


Jon and Josh on Summit with Mt Rainier in background


Mike N



Spot waypoints below:
.


Latitude:46.1306 Longitude:-122.1718 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:05/31/2009 13:51:14 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.1306,-122.1718&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:46.1632 Longitude:-122.1768 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:05/31/2009 11:41:39 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.1632,-122.1768&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:46.1915 Longitude:-122.1957 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:05/31/2009 10:00:54 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.1915,-122.1957&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:46.1902 Longitude:-122.1906 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:05/31/2009 09:29:17 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.1902,-122.1906&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:46.1789 Longitude:-122.1835 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:05/31/2009 07:31:03 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.1789,-122.1835&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:46.1635 Longitude:-122.177 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:05/31/2009 05:20:24 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.1635,-122.177&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:46.1636 Longitude:-122.1769 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:05/30/2009 13:19:28 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.1636,-122.1769&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

From the original prospectus:

For current conditions (route conditions, roads, etc) see US Forest service: Climbing Mt St Helens Website or call 360-449-7861. NWS St Helens weather. Realtime Mt St Helens webcams.
Permits: This trip required permits (I obtained online on February 2nd.) The charge is $22/climber. See http://www.fs.fed.us/gpnf/recreation/mount-st-helens/permit-system.shtml for more details about the permit system.

Participant responsibility: It is each participant's responsibility to be in good physical shape and have the skills and equipment (see below) to participate safely in this climb. A club release will be circulated at the trailhead for each participant to sign.

Required personal equipment (See list for non-technical, overnight snow climb)
In addition to these items, the volcanic nature of Mt St Helens means you will also need to bring a dust mask or bandanna and goggles - the climbing rangers suggest carrying these four items at the top of our packs and having them easily accessible at camp, in the unlikely event that the mountain should vent.

Emergencies & Contacts: In addition to the personal gear (above) the leader will be carrying a SPOT satellite rescue beacon, GPS and cell phone (503-910-9726.) I will also be sending occasional satellite "check-in" messages to this blog during the trip. In the event of an emergency, I will send out a 911 signal from this device. Local Emergency Contacts: Skamania County Sheriffs Department: 509-427-504 and Monument Headquarters: 360-449-7800. If the party is overdue my local (Salem area) contact is Jackie Niemeyer 503-930-8782. She will communicate with the participant's families in the event of an accident. National Weather Service WA (360) 694-6136 OR (503) 261-9246. Avalanche information WA (206) 526-6677 OR (503) 808-2400. Eruption Updates - USGS Cascades Volcanoes Observatory

Frequently asked questions: What if the volcano erupts, spewing hot lava down the side of the mountain and into our path? The leader will be prepared to implement Forest service policy 998 which recommends throwing the climb assistant into the volcano to appease it and then riding the molten rock flows to safety by sitting on strips of aluminum foil.

Planned GPS route - coordinates are (NAD CONUS 27):












Mt Hood Rescue May 17, 2009

May 17, 2009 Rescue on Mt Hood. (Out of respect for the injured climber and his privacy I haven't shared any details here regarding him or his condition other than to say he had a great attitude and a faithful group of friends who stayed by him on a long day on the mountain.)

According to his friends, the Climber was decending the traverse from the old chute route, leading a group of 5. The group was decending at 6 am, having prudently gotten up and down before the sun hit the slopes. The traverse was icy, not soft enough for a good boot track. The leader slipped, apparently while trying to kick a step, and ended up in the Hot Rocks area at about 10,600', just west of the Hogsback (see Spot waypoint above in Google Earth view and below in terrain view).




I was the first responder to reach the injured climber. The other climbers in the Hogsback area quickly pitched in, watching for and diverting falling ice, donating pads and tarps, digging out a safe location for the patient (away from falling ice), helping with patient assessment (thank you Abraham for the head-to-toe exam, and for the volunteer writing down SOAP notes), vital signs (thank you to male climber, two-weeks from graduating from nursing school, and the Mt Hood Ski patroller who arrived on scene) and cell calls (We didn't have good cell reception at the accident scene but climbers on the Hogsback were able to get a call out.) After the initial flurry of activity I asked the nursing student to look through the patient assessment checklist to see if we had missed anything. The handy Patient Assessment Checklist is available on the Mazamas website

Good work by Portland Mountain Rescue, especially Mark Morford who was leading a group of scouts and was on scene immediately, facilitating the patient move to a safer location and providing a calm voice (His quiet, calm voice didn't extend to the climbers above us however, Mark was appropriately assertive about their need to not send more ice raining down on us.)


PMR and RAT team arrived on scene about 5 hours later (Sounds long, but thats actually a good time to get that high on the mountain with an effective, organized response.) The PMR teams were delivered in two unusually high snowcat trips (thank you to the intrepid snowcat driver) into an area just below the Devils Kitchen. (Sheriff apparently requested and received waiver of wilderness boundary rules.) See PMR account of rescue.

This was also my first "911" use of the SPOT satellite beacon. It was already on and active when I arrived at the patient (I had been sending "OK" signals out as I was climbing, see below) so it only took 5 seconds to push the "911" button and see it was blinking. I was then immediately able to focus on the injured climber. The Sheriff later told me that the SPOT worked well in aiding their response. Good to know.

...........DATE/TIME .................TYPE-MESSAGE.. LATITUDE LONGITUDE
05/17/2009 ...06:11:06 AM .......911 ............45.3719 -121.6985
05/17/2009 ...05:13:27 AM .......OK .............45.3671 -121.6978
05/17/2009 ...04:29:47 AM .......OK .............45.3642 -121.7026
05/17/2009 ...02:53:13 AM .......OK .............45.358 -121.7016
05/17/2009 ...12:34:29 AM .......OK .............45.3341 -121.7095

Oregon Air National Guard UH-60 Black Hawk arriving at LZ next to Timberline Lodge


Snowcat arriving at helicopter with injured climber


Transfer from Snowcat to helicopter



Offloading gear from snowcat



Above, recalling one of the few lighter moments a half-hour earlier when the injured climbers down jacket was cut off and the snowcat filled with down. It was also at this point I was feeling a huge sense of relief, with the injured climber now transferred to the helicopter and on his way to OHSU.

Rescue staging area (above) The operation was coordinated by Clackamas County SAR. with assistance from the volunteer communications group Mountain Wave communications.

video

A happy ending (Below) John speaking at the 2009 State EMS Awards banquet



Links to News accounts of the accident. (As is usual with initial news reports, like these below, there are numerous errors, such as the account that said there was a doctor on scene, take them with a grain of salt. I do want to note that the injured climber and his party were climbing prudently, descending the old chute at 6 am when the slip occurred. Some news accounts refer to folks climbing too late, which was certainly the case later in the afternoon on this unusually warm Spring day.)

Oregonian Article August 22, 2009 "Dentist who fell on Mt hood loses his halo brace"
http://www.salem-news.com/articles/may172009/hood_final_5-17-09.php
http://web12.clackamas.us/alfresco/download/direct/workspace/SpacesStore/ca0f3412-4406-11de-a4a3-f7b7a5637363/2009-05-17-CCSOPR-MountainRescue2.html
http://www.oregonlive.com/news/index.ssf/2009/05/injured_climber_is_airlifted_f.html
http://www.katu.com/news/local/45257277.html
http://www.komonews.com/news/local/45258387.html
http://www.kgw.com/news-local/stories/kgw_052509_outdoors_climber_mount_hood_survives.18cc00be.html

Photo credits to PMR, Clackamas Co Sheriff and Jackie Niemeyer
For description of the February 1st rescue on Mt Hood and additional information regarding Mt Hood rescues generally see http://mikessummits.blogspot.com/2009/01/mt-hood-february-1-2009.html

Mt Hood February 1, 2009 rescue

Scott Phillips and I headed up Mt Hood South Side on Sunday February 1st with Jess Palacios team . We parted ways between the Palmer and triangle Morraine (I headed down). When I got back to the Timberline parking lot I started to do homework for our April climb school by contacting the First Aid team in the Wy'East lodge. They gave me a helpful overview of how they might respond to any medical emergency that might occur during climb school. They also provided a direct-dial number of 503-231-7979 x 3305.
As I was leaving the lodge I ran into an AMR "Wilderness Reach & Treat" ambulance arriving with its lights on. I was taking pictures of them gearing up when they asked if I had been on the Mountain. They said a call had come in 10 minutes earlier regarding an injured climber just below the Hogsback. I said I was in radio contact with our team, who were just above the Hogsback ascending. I got Scott Phillips on the radio and asked if he could assist with the rescue. Scott descended to the injured climber and assisted by keeping radio contact and carrying gear as another party helped imobilize the injured climbers arm. This group mixed group then began slowly walking the injured climber down while I provided updates between the party and the sheriff. A snowcat brought paramedics up to the top of the Palmer where they treated the climber and they all (including Scott) descended in the Snow cat. PMR was contacted early in the rescue (they happened to be training at Mazama Lodge in government camp) and were on standby when it was clear the patient could be removed by snowcat. On site Search and Rescue communications were provided by the volunteer SAR Organization Mountain Wave Communications.

There was a nice message from the Sheriff on my home phone when I got back, thanking our team for help with the rescue. See account of this same incident on Jess Palacios blog http://jessclimbing.blogspot.com/2009/02/mt-hood-jan-09-hogsback.html
For additional information regarding what happens in a Mt Hood rescue see:





Three Fingered Jack - July 19, 2009

On July 19, 2009 I'll be leading a climb of via Three Fingered Jack via the South Ridge Route (7,841'). This is a good begininer climb rated at 5.1 with significant exposure. Three Finger Jack is about five miles north of Santiam Pass. This climb will be limited to a party of eight. In an effort to provide equal opportunity for Chemeketan climb school graduates I am reserving spots for new climb school graduates.

Roster
1. Mike Niemeyer, leader
2. Vince Dunn, Leader Assist
3. _________Assistant
4. Reserved - New Climber
5. Reserved - New Climber
6. Reserved - New Climber
7. Reserved - New Climber
8. Reserved - New Climber

Local weather

Driving Directions
From Salem, OR, drive east 52 miles on Hwy 22 to Detroit. The Mountain High Grocery in Detroit is often used for purchasing snacks and regrouping. Drive to Santiam Pass. Just past the Santiam Snow Park you will find the Pacific Crest Trailhead Parking Lot on the north side of the highway. NW Forest Pass required for parking at Trailhead.

Schedule (Preliminary - subject to change)
Optional - Saturday. 7/18, 5:00 PM - Meet at the State Motor Pool Park & Ride on Airport Rd. (N. of Mission St.) and car pool to Santiam Pass set up camp.

Sunday, 7/19,
5:30 AM - Begin hiking north on Pacific Crest Trail (4,800’).
7:30 AM - Arrive at cairn marking climber's trail.
8:00 AM - Arrive at saddle on south ridge.
9:00 AM - Arrive at the crawl and set first fixed line.
10:00 AM- Set second fixed line past the crawl.
10:30 AM - Set third fixed line on first pitch of pinnacle.
11:00 AM - Set fourth fixed line on second pitch of pinnacle.
11:30 AM - First climber summits (10 min per climber).
2:30 PM - Clean the crawl.
3:00 PM - Begin descent.
4:00 PM - Arrive at Pacific Crest Trail.
6:00 PM - Arrive at trail head parking lot.
8:30 PM - Arrive at State Motor Pool Park & Ride on Airport Rd.

Required Climbing Equipment: See List #6

Route description:
Summit Post 3-fingered jack South ridge route description
From Steve Dougherty's website:
Follow the PCT north for approximately five miles or two hours. Not long after the west side of Three Finger Jack becomes visible, but before the PCT leaves the trees, a climbers' trail, marked with a rock cairn, cuts right uphill into the woods. The trail steepens and emerges onto a treeless hillside, marked by a conspicuous scar. The scar is the result of climbers trying to get down from Three Finger Jack quickly. Do not follow the scar or several trails above it which diagonal up and left toward the summit. It is quicker and less tiring to continue straight up along the forest edge toward a low point in the South Ridge. (During the descent it is quicker to plunge-step down the scree on the treeless hillside).

Hike up the south ridge, passing several gendarmes on the left. Near the summit, a large gendarme which appears to block further progress can be passed on the right via a sloping ledge (5.1). The ledge is overhung by the gendarme wall on the west and drops 800 feet on the east, so people get down on all fours to try and get by. Because of this, the ledge is called The Crawl. The hardest part of the climb comes at the end of the ledge, where you must get up off your knees and use your feet. Fortunately, the rock is some of the best found anywhere on the mountain.
After the gendarme, continue up past an eight-foot vertical wall to the base of the summit pinnacle.

Climb an obvious chimney or groove, using whatever appears most solid. If you need protection, bring nuts or camming devices in the one inch range for a crack on the right side of the chimney. Finish up horrid rock to the summit, a somewhat terrifying mixture of cinders and cobbles which probably does vibrate in the wind as the original ascent party claimed. The view is spectacular.

To descend, downclimb or rappel the route. Sometimes there are no fixed rappel points, so come prepared with extra sling if downclimbing is not your forte.

Steve's Notes: Protecting the Crawl: Tie a bowline around the rock knob in the staging area to protect the first gap. Sling a rock in the boulder group so that the rope runs through the channel and minimizes rope drag. Clip a sling to the old piton at the start of the crawl. Use a one inch camming device in the space behind the rock flake which is head high. There is a horizontal space in some rocks marked with orange lichen that my orange SLCD just fits in. One may optionally clip into a second piton which is positioned where I like to place a foot. Girth hitch a ten inch tall rock pillar near its base with a double length sling. Once past the crawl go off belay and pull all extra rope so that it can be tied around a large rock past the crawl.Protecting the Eight Foot Step: The eight-foot step is not at the end of the "trail".

Most climbers are lured beyond the actual step because the path has been very heavily traveled. There is no need to protect this step when climbing up. The leader will point out the "hidden" foothold to climbers before they ascend. This tiny pitch is rapeled with a single 50' rope on descent. Climbers will demonstrate a clove hitch and a Munter hitch to the leader before descending the single line with a Munter hitch. The rope is secured to a rock horn with a bowline which the leader will untie before down climbing the pitch.Protecting the First Pitch: The only protection required here is to girth hitch a single rock horn about 10 feet off the deck. The assistant ties a clove hitch on a rock horn at the base of the pinacle. Pull all extra rope up and clip a figure-eight knot to the rapel anchor slings. The assistant climbs the fixed line while the leader flakes the rope neatly over a rock above the rapel anchor. A long sling is girth hitched around a chock stone above the "window". Knot the rope waist high to serve as the start of the upper pitch and place a locking carabiner here.

Protecting the Second Pitch: The assistant can clip into the end of this long sling for an anchor.
Once the assistant is in position, the leader begins the second pitch while the first group of climbers ascend the first pitch. Place a sling as you turn the corner to keep the rope at waist high and to minimize rope drag around the corner. Climb the chimney and run the rope between the two boulders. Tie a clove hitch to a rock horn on the south side of the start of the cock's comb and drape the sling onto the north side. At the far end clove hitch a couple tiny horns with a cordelette for an anchor then go off belay. Haul the rope up. The assistant will place a clove hitch in the locking carabiner at locking carabiner above the belay position leaving some slack in the rope to give waiting climbers some room to manuver.

Back on top the leader uses three large loops of rope to gain purchase on the knobby summit surface in opposition to each other for a multi-directional anchor. The leader protects himself with two slings and two non-locking carabiners so that he can clip past the prusick knot of the climbers as necessary. Climbers sit close together for their summit picture.

Descending the Pinacle: Climbers down climb the second pitch in reverse order. The clove hitch at the bottom of the first pitch is untied so that they can rapel this pitch with a rapel device. Once the entire first group is on the ground, the rope is secured to the rock knob and the second group ascends the fixed line.

Maps:
Mazamas 3FJ Topo

Additional information:
OMA Article regarding a 3FJ Climb
3FJ Climbing accident report

Broken Top, NW Ridge November 8-9, 2008

CANCELLED DUE TO WEATHER - I will be leading a winter, mixed climb (M1) of Broken Top (9,175 ft) via Green Lakes trail and NW ridge. This will be limited to climbers with snow and rock experience and is scheduled for the weekend of November 8-9. This is a 12 mile round trip and about 3,600 ft elevation gain. If the route stays relatively snow free we will try this as a one-day climb from the trailhead.



REQUIRED EQUIPMENT AND CLOTHING: This will involve travel on snow and we may need snowshoes. We may also be camping on snow and will experience very cold conditions.

ESSENTIALS: Snowshoes, map and compass (GPS unit if you have one), whistle, headlamp with extra batteries and bulb, sunglasses and/or ski goggles, sunscreen and lip protection, personal first aid kit, waterproof matches/candle/fire starter, 2 liters of water, food and extra food, emergency blanket, insulated pad, knife.

CAMPING: Tent, pad and sleeping bag suitable for cold weather winter camping, group stove and fuel.

CLOTHING FOR COLD, RAIN, WIND, AND INTENSE SUN: waterproof jacket and pants (breathable - e.g. Gortex), wool or synthetic clothing (layers – absolutely no cotton), gloves or mittens, wool or pile cap, sun hat or bandanna, liners and wool or synthetic socks, gaiters.

CLIMBING EQUIPMENT: helmet, harness, ice axe, (second tool optional), mountaineering boots (insulated leather or plastic), crampons, belay device, prussiks (2 or 3), carabiners (2 locking and 2 non locking), trekking poles.

OTHER: Forest Parking or snow park pass if driving.

GROUP GEAR: 60m rope, 2-3 pickets, 2-3 ice screws, wands, radios, rock pro, shovel.

SCHEDULE: To be announced later...

CHEMEKETAN CLIMB REGULATIONS The climber agrees to pay for the climber's own medical and/or rescue expenses, whether or not authorized by the climber in the event of accident or illness. LIABILITY RELEASE AND ASSUMPTION OF RISK form.
The climb leader reserves the right to refuse to allow anyone to participate in the climb if the leader believes that the person is not adequately prepared for the climb.

EMERGENCY AND IN-TOWN CONTACTS: For conditions or in case of emergency, you can contact:911 or Deschutes County Sheriff 541-388-6655. Mike Niemeyer will also be carrying a SPOT satellite rescue beacon, which will be activated in an emergency.

ROSTER:
1.Mike Niemeyer (Leader)
2. Jess palacios (Leader Assist)

South Sister, September 28, 2008

Our Chemeketen club climb of South Sister changed when Kirk Kraschel injured his ankle on Broken Top on Saturday 9/28 and was unable to be the leader-assist for South Sister the next day. Greg Phillips and Mike Niemeyer were camping at the devils lake trailhead and were able to connect with a Mazama group led by Greg Scott that, by chance, had two spots open on their team. The climb Sunday with teh mazamas was in ideal weather a a chance to make new friends. On the descent we ran into Tim and Robyn Smith's party headed for the summit.


For future reference, here is Robyn Smith's prospectus:

South Sister weather

Elevation Gain: 4,911’; Round Trip Distance:11 Miles
Chemeketan Rating: Scramble – non technical

Driving Directions: From Salem: Follow OR-22 East for 81 miles until the highway merges with US-20 at Santiam Junction. Continue on US-20 for 46 miles towards Bend. Merge onto US-97 South towards Mt Bachelor/Klamath Falls, and continue to follow the signs on the Cascade Lakes Hwy 28.5 miles towards the Mt Bachelor Ski Resort. Continue past Mt. Bachelor 6.5 miles until you come to a Devil’s Lake Trailhead sign. Take a left into the parking area and go all the way in and around to the north end of the lot.

Route Description: Climbing South Sister this time of year provides a snow free approach from the Devil’s Lake TH. There are no technical skills required, just good physical fitness as it will be a long day with some decent elevation gain. We start the approach hike from the Devil’s Lake Trailhead, winding our way up through the steep forest until we emerge onto a vast plateau. Our world opens up as we spend the next 1.5 miles climbing on low angle trail meandering us above Moraine Lake. The trail will lead us North up to the Lewis Glacier but we will remain on a snow free “path”. For the next mile, we will experience the steepest part of the climb as the route ascends to the crater rim. From there it is a short walk across the crater to the summit. We will descend the climbing route.

Sun, Sept 28 5:45am Meet at the Devil’s Lake TH with day packs ready to go. (5,447’)
6:00Start approach hike
7:30 Arrive at the top of the forest trail (6,665’)
10:30 Arrive at ridge below Lewis Glacier (8,804’)
12:00 Arrive at summit
1:00pm Depart Summit
5:00 Arrive back at cars
6:00 Gather at restaurant of choice for climb debriefing and summit certs
9:00 Back to Salem area

Reference/Maps:
Bond, Barbara I., 75 Scrambles in Oregon, (The Mountaineers Books, 2005), pp. 64-67
Sullivan, William L., 100 Hikes in the Central Cascades, (Navillus Press, 2002), pp. 130-131
Dunegan, Lizann, Hike America Oregon, (Globe Pequot Press, 2001), pp. 220-225
South Sister, OR, 7.5 minute quadrangle by USGS; USFS Deschutes National Forest

Emergency Contacts:Bend Ranger District, 541-388-5664; Deschutes County Sheriff (Search & Rescue) 541-388-6502; 911Deschutes County Road Department, 541-388-6581

Climb Team:

Robyn Smith
Kirk Kraschel
Gregory Phillips
Mike Niemeyer
Tim Smith
Daniel Domrose
Jeff Howell
Geoffrey Carden
Liisa Carden
Pamela Wombacher
Shauna Ballard
Eric Noon

North Sister, August 16-17, 2008






We successfully climbing North Sister (AKA the "Ugly Sister") on August 16-17, 2008 with a Chemeketen team led by Robyn Smith. We will be climbing the South Ridge via SE Spur.

Team:
Robyn Smith
Rick Barry
Greg Tedrow
Cynde Stuart
Jane Morris
Jess Palacios
Mike Niemeyer

Short route description (From Robyn's Prospectus): "From the Pole Creek Trail head we will head up the Pole Creek Trail for 1.4 mi. to its junction with the Green Lakes Trail. Continuing straight and following this trail for about 0.6 mi. we will come to the junction with the Chambers Lakes trail at Soap Creek. After crossing Soap Creek we will continue straight following the signs for Chambers Lakes (the left fork continues on to Green Lakes) for about 1.8 mi to the climbers trail. This heads up to the right just past a small flat open area where the main trail turns to the south. This is about 1/3 mile before reaching Squaw Creek. We will be camping on the flat area north of Squaw Creek just above 6800 feet where we will have access to water.

The following morning, we will gain the SE ridge leading to the South Route. Once on the ridge, there is something of a climber's trail - when in doubt, generally pass obstacles on the left (south) side. Around 9,200' we will join the route up the South Ridge and the route will become a little more distinct and easier to follow. We will bypass 3 gendarmes (right, left, right) beginning at about 9600'. Next we’ll traverse below the prominent rock buttress on the steep scree. Then an easy, well-trodden traverse below the summit pinnacle and straight forward pinnacle climb up the right (south) side of the Bowling Alley - 4th class to about 5.4 depending on route choice. There is a well-established rappel "

Schedule:

Sat, Aug 16
8:00am - Depart Stayton Park & Ride
10:00 - Stop for a quick coffee in Sisters
12:00 - Arrive at the Pole Creek Trail head (5,000’)
1:00pm - Start approach hike
3:00 -Arrive at camp near Squaw Creek (6,800’)

Sun, Aug 17
3:00am - Rise and shine
4:00 -Start climb
6:00 - Arrive at “shelf” looking east, take 15 min break (8,600’)
8:00 - Cross the “terrible traverse”
10:00 - Arrive summit
10:30 - Depart summit
12:00 - Back across the “terrible traverse”
2:00pm - Arrive back at camp, take break then break down.
3:00 - Depart camp
5:00 - Arrive back at cars
6:00 - Rally in Sisters, catch a bite to eat & hand out summit certificates.
7:00 - Head home
9:00 - Back at Stayton Park n Ride

Emergency Contacts (911) or:
  • Sisters Ranger District - PO Box 249 Sisters, OR 97759541-549-2111 or 541-549-7700 (located on the corner of Pine St. and Highway 20 in Sisters)
  • Bend Ranger District, 541-388-5664;
  • Deschutes County Sheriff (Search & Rescue) 541-388-6502;
  • Deschutes County Road Department, 541-388-6581

Satellite waypoints:

Latitude:44.1575 Longitude:-121.7577 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:08/17/2008 15:48:12 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.1575,-121.7577&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:44.1637 Longitude:-121.773 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:08/17/2008 14:09:29 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.1637,-121.773&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1


Latitude:44.1664 Longitude:-121.7727 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:08/17/2008 08:43:51 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.1664,-121.7727&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:44.1585 Longitude:-121.7618 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:08/17/2008 05:47:32 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.1585,-121.7618&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:44.1526 Longitude:-121.7486 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:08/16/2008 16:39:14 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.1526,-121.7486&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:44.1526 Longitude:-121.7486 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:08/16/2008 15:47:09 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.1526,-121.7486&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:44.1875 Longitude:-121.6995 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:08/16/2008 12:04:14 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.1875,-121.6995&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Robyns trip report:

"The seven of us departed Pole Creek TH around 1:30pm in the heat of the day. It was lingering around 100 degrees in the valley that day and really wasn't that much cooler at 5,000 ft. We set up camp near Squaw Creek (6,800') around 400pm. We got ourselves prepared for our 400am departure, ate dinner and turned into our very warm tents/bivies. The evening remained very warm in temperature and there were intermittent clashes of thunder and lightening. We slept on top of our sleeping bags in our summer night wear. The alarms went off way too early for most of us at 300am. The sky was sprinkled in stars and the nearly full moon lit the entire landscape up. We headed up the SE Ridge promptly at 400am. Climbing North Sister this time of year is very similar to climbing a steep sand dune. One step forward, a half a step slid back. The ridge is very sandy then it starts to get more rocky then rocky with boulders and lava bombs but it all moves. We spent six grueling hours in a strangely warm environment climbing our way up the sliding landscape and around gendarmes until we reached our "terrible traverse". The traverse definitely lived up to it's name. We all were minding our p's and q's through that section and then on up the bowling alley which was actually fairly climber friendly this time around. We summitted around 1115am and were greeted by Scott Phillip's son, Matthew and a buddy who were attempting to do the Three Sister Marathon. Shortly after that, we met up with four Obsidians who we'd met in camp the night before. The skies were starting to look a little more threatening so we collaborated with those four and did a double rope rappel back down through the bowling alley all the way back to the terrible traverse. We had cleaned our fixed line across so had agreed to share the fixed line the Obsidians had in place to get back across in order to save some time. Just as we got to this point our first clapper of thunder was heard. We carefully hurried our way back across and back down the mountain to camp. Upon return to camp we filled our water bottles and broke down camp and headed for the cars. It was a long day as we returned to the cars at 725pm (Note, 1 hour and 40 mins from our Squaw Creek camp 5 miles away, we were booking!). Tired and hungry, we rallied at the Mexican restaurant in Sisters for a bite to eat and summit certificates before returning home. Team included: Leader: Robyn Smith, Leader Assist: Rick Barry, Assist: Jess Palacios and Mike Neimeyer, Greg Tedrow, Cynde Alt-Stuart and Jane Morris "

Unicorn Peak, Toulumne Meadows

On July 25th, 2008 I led a technical climb of Unicorn peak in Toulumne meadows (Yosemite 4th class or low 5th class at one point.) With Jim & Teresa Niemeyer

Latitude:37.8454 Longitude:-119.3822 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/25/2008 12:44:05 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=37.8454,-119.3822&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:37.9062 Longitude:-119.2462 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/24/2008 11:23:45 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=37.9062,-119.2462&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1























Mt Baker via Easton Glacier July 18-20, 2008

Pictures from Steve Dougherty's successful climb of Mt baker via the Easton Glacier on July 18-20, 2008. For prospectus see his website at: http://cascadeadventures.net/















































Steve's post trip write-up:

Nine Chemeketans journeyed to Washington’s North Cascades for a three day climb of 10,781’ Mt. Baker via the Easton Glacier route July 18-20. Mt. Baker is the northern most Chemeketan award peak, not far from the Canadian border and is the third highest summit in Washington behind Rainier and Adams.

Jeff Howell offered his Ford F250 for hauling climbers and gear while the remaining climbers made do in Jen Truax’s brand new Toyota 4 Runner. The group left Salem at 5:30 a.m. Friday morning and rendezvoused with our Portland area threesome in Vancouver. Two additional rest stops were taken before arriving at Schreiber’s Meadow trailhead (3370') at 1 p.m.

After sorting gear and taking a group photo in the parking lot we meandered on good trail to our 6100’ camp on the “railroad grade”. Snow still lingered in shady areas below 6,000 feet. However most of the trail and the railroad grade were free of snow. We did have one interesting stream crossing and it was managed rather easily by careful foot placement and the stability afforded by out trekking poles. The cool temperatures and overcast skies prevented views of our objective but made our late afternoon approach hike very enjoyable.

We found suitable camping and running water at 6100’. Not having to melt snow for water and being able to camp on the ground instead of the snow added much to our high camp comfort.

As evening approached the overcast skies and low clouds parted enough to give glimpses of the mountain, where we could see the route’s boot track near the summit.

We woke at 2 a.m. to a calm wind, full moon and great visibility; a perfect night for a climb. We departed our base camp at 3 a.m. following the GPS waypoints that Mike Niemeyer had entered into his GPS. We traveled in three ropes teams of three utilizing three 30-meter 8mm ropes provided by Keith Hill. We carried a sleeping bag, shovel and stove to appease the mountain’s spirit and assure our safety. Navigation of the glacier seemed straight forward and we easily navigated through the numerous crevasses thanks to good visibility and some well placed wands. The crossing of a few snow bridges and stepping over small crevasses kept our climb interesting. Resting about ever y hour we climbed at a modest pace.

Our final rest break was taken in the shadow of Sherman Peak on the rim of Sherman Crater. A large moat with easy access provided privacy for a bathroom break.

The final leg to the crater rim included the steepest angle that we would encounter. The boot track here made for easy climbing. After 45 minutes of climbing we topped out and began our stroll across the wide open summit crater to the actual summit known as Grant Peak.

At 9:30 a.m. we dropped our packs and unroped at the foot of Grant Peak and Robyn Smith passed out party hats and party favors to celebrate Linda Bedard and I completing our 18th award peak with the Chemeketans.

Another Chemeketan climb team of eight, led by Jess Palacios, was waiting for us on the summit. They had summited 90 minutes earlier via the Coleman-Demming route and purposely waited for us to arrive to join in our celebration. After handshakes and hugs we took summit photos of both groups together and our individual climb team. It was a glorious morning on the mountain. The sky was perfectly clear with unlimited visibility and barely a breath of wind.

After an hour we were roped up and heading back down the softening snow. Mike Niemeyer had captured a bread crumb trail with his GPS on the ascent and was tasked with back tracking our route back to camp. We rested every hour during our leisurely descent and were back in camp by 2 p.m. We spent the remainder of the afternoon napping and enjoying the wonderful July weather.

Our bodies were fresh after the second night’s slumber as we broke camp in calm, sunny weather. Departing our high camp at 8 a.m. we were led by assistant, Linda Bedard, back to the trailhead.

We had our post climb meal at the Hometown Cafe in Sedro-Wooley, where they were easily able to accommodate our large group at one table, before making the long drive back to Oregon.

I would have to call this a perfect climb.

Climb team member, Mike Niemeyer, carried his SPOT satellite beacon during our climb and was able to update his website with our current position numerous times during the weekend. He was also able to capture photos with his cell phone and upload them to his website as well while we were on the mountain. Climb Team: Steve Dougherty (leader), Linda Bedard (assistant), Robyn Smith, Mike Niemeyer, Keith Hill, Jeff Howell, Jeremy Sloan, Matthew Tryon, and Jennifer Truax. Jennifer Truax has uploaded many pictures to webshots ...
http://cards.webshots.com/invite/pickup/142009095nWVo/album/564190544ZiOBAh

Satellite Waypoints:

Latitude:48.7053 Longitude:-121.8184 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/20/2008 10:11:43 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=48.7053,-121.8184&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:48.7259 Longitude:-121.8385 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/20/2008 08:29:27 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=48.7259,-121.8385&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:48.7404 Longitude:-121.8402 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/20/2008 07:29:09 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=48.7404,-121.8402&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:48.7406 Longitude:-121.8405 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/19/2008 14:20:41 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=48.7406,-121.8405&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:48.7592 Longitude:-121.8351 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/19/2008 12:59:49 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=48.7592,-121.8351&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:48.7739 Longitude:-121.8197 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/19/2008 09:21:49 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=48.7739,-121.8197&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:48.7687 Longitude:-121.8202 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/19/2008 08:04:06 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=48.7687,-121.8202&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:48.7441 Longitude:-121.848 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/19/2008 03:41:24 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=48.7441,-121.848&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:48.7407 Longitude:-121.8402 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/18/2008 17:08:04 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=48.7407,-121.8402&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:48.7221 Longitude:-121.8392 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/18/2008 15:23:53 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=48.7221,-121.8392&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:48.7064 Longitude:-121.8116 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/18/2008 12:54:35 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=48.7064,-121.8116&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Mt Hood Leuthold Couloir June 21-22

With this weekend's Mt Rainier climb cancelled due to weather I did a Mt Hood climb via Leuthold Couloir with Duane Nelson and Terry Donahe. The plan was to do the Reid Headwall but we ran into a challenging berschrund and decided that it introduced one too many variables on a route none of us had done before so we did the Leuthold instead. Great conditions except for the usual ice bombardment through the hourglass. Checking in via SPOT satellite device:

Latitude:45.3306 Longitude:-121.7084 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:06/22/2008 11:52:27 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=45.3306,-121.7084&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:45.3714 Longitude:-121.7 Nearest Location: Government Camp, United States Distance: 9 km(s) Time:06/22/2008 09:29:27 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=45.3714,-121.7&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:45.3739 Longitude:-121.6981 Nearest Location: Government Camp, United States Distance: 9 km(s) Time:06/22/2008 08:57:21 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=45.3739,-121.6981&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:45.3751 Longitude:-121.7006 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:06/22/2008 08:23:37 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=45.3751,-121.7006&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:45.3731 Longitude:-121.705 Nearest Location: Government Camp, United States Distance: 9 km(s) Time:06/22/2008 06:54:15 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=45.3731,-121.705&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:45.3683 Longitude:-121.7084 Nearest Location: Government Camp, United States Distance: 8 km(s) Time:06/22/2008 05:37:56 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=45.3683,-121.7084&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:45.368 Longitude:-121.7075 Nearest Location: Government Camp, United States Distance: 8 km(s) Time:06/21/2008 19:43:13 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=45.368,-121.7075&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:45.3445 Longitude:-121.7093 Nearest Location: Government Camp, United States Distance: 6 km(s) Time:06/21/2008 16:51:25 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=45.3445,-121.7093&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:45.3305 Longitude:-121.7085 Nearest Location: Government Camp, United States Distance: 5 km(s) Time:06/21/2008 15:51:40 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=45.3305,-121.7085&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Mt Rainier - Emmons Route June 19-June 22, 2008

Rick Barry's Chemeketen Club Climb of Mt Rainier on June 19-22, 2008 was cancelled due to weather.

Roster:
John Petrie (Co-leader)
Gloria Petrie
Scott Phillips
Bryon Snapp
Tim Smith
Robyn Smith
Mike Niemeyer
Jenn Truax

The following Prospectus is from Rick Barry (I also added some GPS route information below)
Round trip distance: ~20 miles.
Total Elevation gain: 10,000’
Start: White River Campground 4300’
Camping: Camp Schurman: 9500’

Driving Directions: Drive north on I-5 to exit 68 (about an hour north of Portland) and head east on Hwy 12. Continue about 50 miles on Hwy 12 through Packwood. Just past Packwood turn north onto SR 123/ WA 410 and into the Park. Continue north ~20 miles and take a left onto Sunrise Rd. The ranger station is about a mile down this road. Continue another 3-4 miles and take a left onto the road to White River CG. Total drive time ~ 4 hours. Red Tape: $30.00 climbing permit, all climbers must present photo ID at time of registration.

The Plan: Wednesday, June 18: Drive to White River Campground and spend the night. There is no reservation system at this camp but we should be fine mid-week. It would be nice to caravan up but it’s not a necessity. I’d like to be on the road by mid-afternoon.

June 19: We’ll need to be packed and ready to go by 7:00 a.m. We’ll then drive back to the White River Ranger Station, buy our permits, register, return to the TH and go. The trail winds up the White River for three forested miles to Glacier Basin at 6000’, before breaking out into meadows and moraines. At about 4.5 miles and 6800’ we’ll cut sharply to our left (SW) and head up the Inner Glacier, a small glacier on the backside of Steamboat Prow (Camp Schurman is at the ‘prow’). We’ll rope up and go more or less straight up the Glacier, topping out at Camp Curtis, a small flat spot at 9000’ with bivy sites atop a ridge separating the Inner Glacier from the Emmons. We’ll short rope up this ridge for about a half mile before descending onto the Emmons. Once on the glacier the route hugs the north side of the Emmons for the last mile to camp.

June 20: Rest. Between naps we’ll go through crevasse rescue, passing through pickets etc. We’ll keep this activity very light. Depending on conditions, we’ll start climbing at around 11:30 p.m.

June 21: Showtime! We’ll take some time to assess the route from our high camp and with luck we’ll be able to see a likely course through the upper glacier. The first move is obvious; traverse south across the glacier to ‘the Corridor’ after which we’ll look for the path of least resistance with the focus on getting around or between the two monster bergschrunds atop the Emmons and Winthrop glaciers.

Route description: Since this route is completely on glacier snow, it changes from year to year and season to season, depending on the snowfall, crevasses, and icefalls that determine access to the summit. From Emmons Flats, ascend southerly to the Corridor, a prominent snow slope with fewer crevasses and gentle slopes that rises higher than the rest of the Emmons Glacier. Enter the Corridor between 10,000 and 10,300’ and ascend to 11,200 feet, where the route becomes steeper (30 to 35 degrees). From 11,200 feet, the route may take a variety of directions. Ascend glacier slopes through crevasses and seracs, sometimes traversing onto the Winthrop Glacier. The Winthrop frequently has a smooth shoulder above 12,200 feet, with few crevasses and icefalls. This slope can also be icy and is frequently quite hard; carry pickets for use as running protection. Between 13,500 and 13,700 feet, a bergschrund usually forms at the top of both the Emmons and Winthrop Glaciers. This always creates some fuss, and challenges climbers every year. At any time of the year, it may require down climbing, steep and icy climbing, exposed traversing, and belays to access the final slopes and the crater rim at 14,250 feet. From the rim, it’s a 15 minute walk to Columbia Crest. After the climb, we’ll either remain at Camp Schurman or pack up and return to White River.

June 22: Homeward bound.

Emergency Contacts:
Mt Rainier NP, Park HQ: 360-569-2211 ext 2334 Lewis County S&R: 360-740-1105
In town contact: Kathleen Hanifen, 503-587-8648 (Rick’s wife)
Mike Niemeyer will also be carrying a SPOT satellite beacon.

GPS ROUTE
Here is a link to a topo of the route from a 2003 climb website of Daniel Arndt . The following is an arm-chair GPS route I ran (i.e. not based on on-the ground information) in UTM NAD27CONUS this shows a direct finish - in reality we will need to likely need to traverse around the bergschrund near the top:



Middle Sister via Hayden Glacier June 28-29, 2008


Middle Sister via the Hayden Glacier On June 29th, 2008 our mighty team successfully summited Middle Sister. This was a 13.6 miles rt with about 5100 feet gain (Summit Elevation: 10,047’.) The climb involved a snow approach (past pole creek) and glacier climb to 40 degrees. We had unusual hot weather and a thunderstorm Saturday Evening. We also shared the mountain with another Chemeketen group led by Tim Smith - who also successfully summited with his party.

Trip report: We filled out a wilderness permit and departed from Pole Creek Trailhead (5200’) at about 11 am Saturday. Following the Pole Creek Trail we hiked 1.4 miles to the Green Lakes Trail junction (5840’) at Pole creek. Past this point we began hitting snow on the trail. We turned South for 1.6 miles to the Chambers Lake trail (5740’), and turn Southwest on the Chambers Lake Trail, somewhere under the snow, for approximately 1.8 miles to 6280’ and ascended cross country to an area at the toe of the Hayden Glacier where we camped. We moved up the planned start time for Sunday from 5 am to 3:30 am to avoid afternoon thunderstorms. With a 2:30 am wake up call we departed promptly at 3:30am without crampons, due to relatively soft snow. We followed the snow-covered moraine west towards the saddle, roping up and putting on crampoons for the Hayden Glacier. At the saddle just below the North ridge we ditched crampoons and rope. We then scrambled up the rocky ridge to a point about 700ft below the summit where we roped up again for a steep snow pitch, ultimately arriving at the Summit around 8:15 am (10047’). Unfortunately we found we had been beaten to the summit by Tim Smith's team by only 30 minutes. (Had we not fallen for the hand-made sign "REI promotional giveaway - next glacier" we could have easily beaten Tim's team to the summit) After a half hour summit photo shoot, we quickly retraced our steps back to camp to avoid the thunderstorm moving in. We casually broke camp for a 1:45 pm departure. At about a quarter mile from the cars we started getting hit by large hail, Kevin put his climb helmet back on for protection (see photo). Back at the cars about 3:15 pm. We stopped in Sisters at a mexican restaurant for a meal and summit certificates.

Roster:
1.Mike Niemeyer (Leader)
2. Kirk Kraschel (Leader Assist)
3. Jane Morris
4. Dan Domrose
5. Kevin Kuo














































Trip prospectus:


Driving directions: from the State Motorpool lot on Saturday Morning. Drive east on highway 22 to Sisters. from Sisters, 1.5 miles west on Hwy. 242, then 5.6 miles south on F.S. Rd. 15, then 5.3 miles south on F.S. Rd. 1524. (The Pole Creek trailhead road has been snow-covered and closed at the 4,400 ft level but is now open. )

Schedule:
Saturday
7:00 AM -Meet at the State Motor Pool Park & Ride on Airport Rd. (N. of Mission St.)
10:30 AM -Depart Pole Creek Spring Trail Head (5300’/0.0 miles)
11:10 AM -Green Lakes Trail junction (Tr 4070) (5900’/1.4 miles).
11:30 AM -Soap Creek ... Chambers Lakes Trail Jct.(Tr 4074) (5760’/1.9 miles)
12:30 PM -Climbers Trail junction (3.7 miles)
1:30 PM -Arrive at 6800’ camp on Squaw Creek below Hayden Glacier.

Sunday
2:30 AM -Wake up.
3:30 AM -Start climb.
8:15 AM -Arrive at summit. (10047')
8:45 AM -Depart summit.
12:30 PM -Arrive at 6800’ camp on Squaw Creek.
1:30 PM -Depart 6800’ camp on Squaw Creek.
3:10 PM -Arrive at Pole Creek Spring Trail Head (5300’).
3:45 PM -Arrive in Sisters for post climb meal.
5:00 PM -Depart Sisters.
7:15 PM -Arrive at the State Motor Pool Park & Ride.

Participant responsibility: It is each participant's responsibility to be in good physical shape and have the skills and equipment (see below) to participate safely in this climb. A club release will be circulated at the trailhead for each participant to sign.

Required personal equipment
Group Gear: The following will be distributed at the trailhead and redistributed periodically during the trip:
  1. Ropes
  2. Pickets
  3. one bivy sack and one sleeping bag will be carried by the party on summit day.
  4. Radios (FMRS channel 10-5)
SHARED GEAR:
  • Tent 1 - Mike and Dan; Kevin - solo tent; Kirk solo tent; Jane solo tent or share with
  • cyndeJetboil1 - Dan; Jetboil 2 - Jane
  • Shovel 1 - Mike; Shovel 2 - Kirk
Emergencies: In addition to the personal gear & group gear (above) the leader will be carrying a SPOT satellite rescue beacon, GPS and cell phone (503-910-9726.) I will also be sending occasional satellite "check-in" messages to this blog during the trip. In the event of an emergency, I will send out a 911 signal from this device. Local Emergency Contacts: Emergency Contact Information: 911; Central Oregon Emergency Dispatch Center 541-416-6800; Deschutes National Forest, Sisters Ranger District: 541-549-7700. If the party is overdue my local (Salem area) contact is Jackie Niemeyer 503-930-8782. She will communicate with the participant's families in the event of an accident.


NAVIGATION:
Here are links to route topos courtesy of the Mazamas: Middle Sister Route and Middle Sister approach.

GPS Waypoints (UTM NAD27 Conus) From trailhead to summit and in reverse...


















Trip - Main waypoints via Spot Satellite:

Longitude:-121.7002 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:06/29/2008 15:25:44 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.1875,-121.7002&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:44.1508 Longitude:-121.7469 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:06/29/2008 11:51:40 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.1508,-121.7469&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:44.1483 Longitude:-121.7842 Nearest Location: Elk Lake, United States Distance: 19 km(s) Time:06/29/2008 08:42:03 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.1483,-121.7842&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:44.1536 Longitude:-121.7833 Nearest Location: Elk Lake, United States Distance: 19 km(s) Time:06/29/2008 06:39:23 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.1536,-121.7833&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:44.1522 Longitude:-121.7733 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:06/29/2008 05:38:29 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.1522,-121.7733&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:44.1521 Longitude:-121.766 Nearest Location: Elk Lake, United States Distance: 19 km(s) Time:06/29/2008 04:36:40 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.1521,-121.766&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:44.1507 Longitude:-121.747 Nearest Location: Elk Lake, United States Distance: 19 km(s) Time:06/29/2008 03:27:48 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.1507,-121.747&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:44.1507 Longitude:-121.7469 Nearest Location: Elk Lake, United States Distance: 19 km(s) Time:06/28/2008 14:17:00 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.1507,-121.7469&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

South Sister - Broken Top Combo

The June 27-29 outing has now been changed to Middle Sister.

I will be leading a climb of both South Sister and Broken Top from the Green Lakes area. At this time the road is still covered with significant snow. If it does not open by this date we may need to adjust the trip to a Broken-Top only as we will have a longer approach from the Dutchman flat parking lot. I'll post route options and schedule when this gets clearer but for now you can find generic route information on summitpost at:

Broken Top NW Ridge and Broken Top (General description)
South Sister

Weather Info:
http://www.wrh.noaa.gov/forecast/MapClick.php?site=PQR&llon=-122.846247&rlon=-121.661247&tlat=44.434584&blat=43.252084&smap=1&mp=0&map.x=254&map.y=65

REQUIRED EQUIPMENT AND CLOTHING:
This will involve travel on snow so snowshoes will likely be required. We may also be camping on snow and will experience a wide range of temperatures.
ESSENTIALS: snowshoes, map and compass (GPS unit if you have one), whistle, headlamp with extra batteries and bulb, sunglasses and/or ski goggles, sunscreen and lip protection, personal first aid kit, waterproof matches/candle/fire starter, 2 liters of water, food and extra food for 2 full days, extra clothing, emergency blanket, insulated pad, knife.
CAMPING: tent, pad and sleeping bag suitable for cold weather winter camping, at least two stoves for the group and fuel.
CLOTHING FOR COLD, RAIN, WIND, AND INTENSE SUN: waterproof jacket and pants (breathable - e.g. Gortex), wool or synthetic clothing (layers – absolutely no cotton), gloves or mittens, wool or pile cap, sun hat or bandanna, liners and wool or synthetic socks, gaiters.
CLIMBING EQUIPMENT: helmet, harness, ice axe, mountaineering boots (insulated leather or plastic), crampons, belay device, prussiks (2 or 3), carabiners (2 locking and 2 non locking), trekking poles, snowshoes.
OTHER: bathroom gear, camera, Forest parking pass if driving.
GROUP GEAR: 60m rope, 6 pickets, wands, radios, rock pro, two shovels for the group,

CHEMEKETAN CLIMB REGULATIONS
1. The climber agrees to pay for the climber's own medical and/or rescue expenses, whether or not authorized by the climber in the event of accident or illness.
2. Guests must provide to the trip leader a signed RELEASE FROM LIABILITY AND ASSUMPTION OF RISK, available at the meeting location.
3. The climb leader reserves the right to refuse to allow anyone to participate in the climb if the leader believes that the person is not adequately prepared for the climb.

EMERGENCY AND IN-TOWN CONTACTS: For conditions or in case of emergency, you can contact:911 or Deschutes County Sheriff 541-388-6655. Mike Niemeyer will also be carrying a SPOT satellite rescue beacon, which will be activated in an emergency.

Roster:
1.Mike Niemeyer (Leader)
2. Leader Assist (TBD)
3. Jane Morris
4. Dan Sewell
5. Scott Sewell
6. Adam McKee
7. Kirk Kraschel

Intro to Smith Rock - April 2008











Broken Top 9 O'clock Couloir on May 3-4










Scott Phillips led and I assisted on a climb of the Broken Top 9 O'clock Couloir on May 3-4 as an alternative to the Middle Sister climb I had scheduled for that date.



(Photo from summit Post and Scott Phillips)

From Scott's prospectus:
PEAK: Broken Top ELEVATION: 9,175 ft
ROUTE: 9 O’Clock Coulier

RATING: S-2
DATE: Saturday-Sunday, May 3-4, 2008 LEADER: Scott Phillips

DESCRIPTION
“Broken Top sits adjacent to or is actually part of the Three Sisters complex in central Oregon. It's sharp features make it stand apart from the more traditional shaped Sisters. Broken Top is a very old volcano whose horseshoe shape is the result of an implosion and the after effect of the collapsing summit. There are only two small glaciers left on Broken Top, the Bend Glacier on the north side and the Crook Glacier within the crater.The Northwest ridge route is the easiest and can be done in a day from the Greenlakes trailhead without any difficulty. Depending on specific route selection the hardest climbing involved is fourth to easy fifth class.”
- from Summitpost.com

Day 1, Saturday: 8:00 AM:
The climb will start by hiking (snowshoes or cross country skis) north from the Dutchman Flat Snow Park (6,350 ft) adjacent from Mt Bachelor located along the Cascade Lakes Highway west of Bend. We will follow snow mobile and ski trails for the most part past Todd Lake and directly towards the crater of Broken Top. Most of the elevation gain will be in the last mile and a half of the approach when we gain 1300 ft. Most of the approach is well marked except for some cross country parts where map and compass may be needed for navigation through wooded areas. The last of the approach is mostly open snow fields and is easily navigated by line of site with Broken Top. Camp site will be in the crater on the east side where there is some more levels areas to set up tents (8,100 ft). Total approach distance is 6.5 miles and will take about 7 hours. This will give us plenty of time to set up tents, eat and rehydrate for the full day ahead of us the next day.

Day 2, Sunday: 3:00 AM ???
We will awake and plan to be on the route by 4:00 AM ???. We will start with crampons and be roped up since the route starts just outside of the camp site. The first challenge is the 9 O’Clock Coulier. Be prepared for 50-55 degree slopes in the coulier which will be protected with pickets. A belay will be set up at the top by the leader when he tops out. A short rest will give us time to view the Sisters and review the intended route. We will then drop down about 200 ft on the west side in a northwest direction around some out croppings of rock and ice then turn to the northeast and gain elevation until we are the base of the rock formation at the top of the mountain. We’ll traverse along the base of the formation until we met up with the NW ridge. From there we will climb the normal route that is taken in the summer time when sane people climb it. Descent will be via the climb route. After the climb we will pack up camp and hike out to Dutchman Flat Snow Park. The hike out will take about 4 hours. Summit certificates will be awarded at the trailhead after the climb.

MEETING LOCATION AND DRIVING DIRECTIONS
We will meet at the state motor pool at 4:00 AM Saturday morning and head out from there. We will stop for breakfast along the way, either fast food or sit down, if time allows. I have a van that all the gear will fit into and ask that a $23 donation be slipped to the driver for expenses. Driving duties can be shared. If some one has a better vehicle that will be considered.
REFERENCE/MAPS
· Thomas, Jeff Oregon High – A Climbing Guide, (Keep Climbing Press, 1991), pp 111-117.
· Smoot, Jeff, Climbing the Cascade Volcanoes (A Falcon Guide, 1993), pp 149-153.
· Anderson, Shea, Snowshoe Routes Oregon, (The Mountaineers Books, 2001), pp 126-129.

Weather Info:
http://www.wrh.noaa.gov/forecast/MapClick.php?site=PQR&llon=-122.846247&rlon=-121.661247&tlat=44.434584&blat=43.252084&smap=1&mp=0&map.x=254&map.y=65


EMERGENCY AND IN-TOWN CONTACTS
For conditions or in case of emergency, you can contact:
911 or Deschutes County Sheriff 541-388-6655.
Mike Niemeyer will also be carrying a SPOT satellite rescue beacon, which will be activated in an emergency.

REQUIRED EQUIPMENT AND CLOTHING


ESSENTIALS: snowshoes, map and compass (GPS unit if you have one), whistle, headlamp with extra batteries and bulb, sunglasses and/or ski goggles, sunscreen and lip protection, personal first aid kit, waterproof matches/candle/fire starter, 2 liters of water, food and extra food for 2 full days, extra clothing, emergency blanket, insulated pad, knife.
CAMPING: tent, pad and sleeping bag suitable for cold weather winter camping, at least two stoves for the group and a fuel canister for each person.
CLOTHING FOR COLD, RAIN, WIND, AND INTENSE SUN: waterproof jacket and pants (breathable - e.g. Gortex), wool or synthetic clothing (layers – absolutely no cotton), gloves or mittens, wool or pile cap, sun hat or bandanna, liners and wool or synthetic socks, gaiters.
CLIMBING EQUIPMENT: helmet, harness, ice axe, mountaineering boots (preferably double plastic), crampons, two shovels for the group, belay device, prussiks (2 or 3), carabiners (2 locking and 2 non locking), trekking poles.
OTHER: bathroom gear, camera, Snow park permit.
GROUP GEAR: 60m rope, 6 pickets, wands, radios, rock pro.

CHEMEKETAN CLIMB REGULATIONS
1. The climber agrees to pay for the climber's own medical and/or rescue expenses, whether or not authorized by the climber in the event of accident or illness.
2. Guests must provide to the trip leader a signed RELEASE FROM LIABILITY AND ASSUMPTION OF RISK, available at the meeting location.
3. The climb leader reserves the right to refuse to allow anyone to participate in the climb if the leader believes that the person is not adequately prepared for the climb.

COMMENTS
The climb is limited to 4 participants including the leader. Please let me know as soon as possible if you cannot come on the climb. Be prepared for cold and hot conditions on the entire trip since the weather can change in a short time. Prior to the climb, if the weather is questionable, Scott will make my decision on whether to go or not on Thursday or Friday night at the latest. If you have any questions, please give Scott Phillips a call or send an e-mail. I am shooting for a 2 day climb window if we push it. Please don’t count out adding an extra day to finish the climb if the scheduling changes.

Satellite waypoints from our trip:
Latitude:44.0788 Longitude:-121.6958 Nearest Location: Elk Lake, United States Distance: 14 km(s) Time:05/03/2008 14:58:16 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.0788,-121.6958&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:44.073 Longitude:-121.6923 Nearest Location: Elk Lake, United States Distance: 14 km(s) Time:05/03/2008 13:30:33 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.073,-121.6923&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:44.0634 Longitude:-121.6862 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:05/03/2008 12:19:45 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.0634,-121.6862&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:44.0507 Longitude:-121.6829 Nearest Location: Elk Lake, United States Distance: 12 km(s) Time:05/03/2008 11:17:50 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.0507,-121.6829&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:44.0388 Longitude:-121.6714 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:05/03/2008 10:38:13 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.0388,-121.6714&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

ESN:0-7352032 Latitude:43.9999 Longitude:-121.6635 Nearest Location: Elk Lake, United States Distance: 12 km(s) Time:05/03/2008 08:16:27 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=43.9999,-121.6635&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1


THE TEAM
Leader: 1. Scott Phillips 503-931-0751 climbingscott@comcast.net
2. Kerry Ketcham kerryjay@live.com


4. Mike Niemeyer 503-910-9726 mailto:mwniemeyer@verizon.net

Mt Thielsen, October 4-5, 2008




UPDATE FOR 10/3/08: We've cancelled the climb this weekend due to poor weather.

*************

On October 4th & 5th 2008 I will be leading a late-season Chemeketen Club Climb of Mt Thielsen (9,182 ft) via the West Ridge route. This is a good climb for new climbers and is rated R1. The climb involves a 3+ mile hike in and an elevation gain of 3,782 feet (The last 200 ft is the technical climbing part.) Known as the “lightening rod of the Cascades” the summit features glassy burnt spots from past lightening strikes. (See Pictures from 2006 climb)

CURRENT WEATHER AT DIAMOND LAKE:

CURRENT WEBCAM

CLIMB TEAM ROSTER: (This climb is now full)
1. Mike Niemeyer - Leader
2. Keith Hill - Leader Assist
3. Linda Bedard - Climb Assistant
4. Tina Reave
5. Lisa Conrad
6. Bryon Snapp
7. Dan Domrose
8. Kirk Kraschel
9. Greg Philips
10.David Braun
11. Roger Monette
12. Mike Rudy

ITINERARY & ROUTE

Tuesday, September 30th – Short, pre-climb meeting at the Brick in Salem 6:30pm. We will review gear and talk about the plan for carpooling & camping.

Saturday, October 4, 2008 – Those carpooling will meet at the Salem State Motor Pool on Airport road at 1 PM. We will drive from Salem to Diamond Lake and camp at the Diamond Lake Campground (See below about camping details.)

Sunday, October 5th - Meet at the Mt. Thielsen trailhead no later than 7:00 am. (The trailhead is directly east of the diamond lake campground and 1.5 miles north of the Highway 230/Highway 138 road junction near Diamond Lake. The trailhead parking lot is located along the east side of Highway 138. Northwest Forest Pass is required to park at this trailhead. ) We will start the climb at 7:30am. We will climb the west ridge via Mt Thielsen Trail #1456 three miles to the Pacific Crest Trail and continue east up the climbers trail along the west ridge to an obvious saddle with some belay bolts. We’ll put up a fixed line on the summit pinnacle to ascend and descend the easy fourth/fifth class rock on the summit block. Return via the climbing route to the trailhead by early afternoon.


WAYPOINT, DISTANCE TO NEXT, LEG LENGTH, COURSE, UTM NAD27, ELEVATION
TH-1, 0 ft, , , 10 T 571039 4777230, 5307 ft
TH-2, 0.2 mi, 0.2 mi, 117° true, 10 T 571295 4777104, 5450 ft
TH-3, 0.4 mi, 0.2 mi, 76° true, 10 T 571683 4777201, 5632 ft
TH-4, 1.2 mi, 0.8 mi, 41° true, 10 T 572484 4778127, 6042 ft
TH-5, 1.8 mi, 0.6 mi, 90° true, 10 T 573454 4778130, 6624 ft
TH-6, 2.3 mi, 0.6 mi, 66° true, 10 T 574258 4778505, 7062 ft
TH-7, 2.6 mi, 0.3 mi, 125° true, 10 T 574593 4778276, 7188 ft
TH-8, 2.9 mi, 0.3 mi, 128° true, 10 T 574954 4777998, 7399 ft
TH-9, 3.2 mi, 0.4 mi, 106° true, 10 T 575533 4777837, 8096 ft
TH-10, 3.5 mi, 0.3 mi, 86° true, 10 T 576007 4777872, 8858 ft
TH-11, 3.6 mi, 521 ft, 359° true, 10 T 576002 4778031, 9022 ft

Other route descriptions and maps can be found at:

GETTING THERE:
Campground Directions & Reservations: (Mapquest directions to resort) Drive south in I-5 to Roseburg then drive east on Hwy 138, approx. 80 miles, turn right onto Road 4795 (Diamond Lake Loop) at the north entrance to Diamond Lake Recreation Area. The Diamond Lake Campground is located on Forest road 4795, on east shore of Diamond Lake. 141 of the 238 camp units at Diamond Lake Campground (loops A-G plus M) may be reserved through the National Reservation System. Telephone: 1-877-444-6777 or online at http://www.fs.fed.us/r6/umpqua/recreation/camping/cg3diaml.shtml Sites not reserved are available on first come-first serve basis.

EMERGENCY AND IN-TOWN CONTACTS

911 - The leader will be carrying a SPOT Satellite beacon and cell phone (503-910-9726). Umpqua National Forest headquarters 2900 Stewart ParkwayRoseburg, OR 97471
(541) 672-6601

REQUIRED EQUIPMENT AND CLOTHING

  • 10 ESSENTIALS: map and compass (GPS unit if you have one), whistle, headlamp with extra batteries and bulb, sunglasses, sunscreen and lip protection, personal first aid kit, waterproof matches/candle/fire starter, 2-3 liters of water, food .
  • CLOTHING FOR COLD, SNOW, RAIN, WIND, AND INTENSE SUN: waterproof jacket and pants, wool or synthetic clothing, sun hat or bandanna, liners and wool or synthetic socks, gaiters. Waterproof shell pants, two pair gloves, down or synthetic belay jacket (warm), wool cap.
  • CLIMBING EQUIPMENT: helmet, harness, belay device, prussiks (2 or 3), carabiners (locking and extra), treking poles, ice axe and crampons (fitted to your boots ahead of time.)
  • Leader will provide rope(s) and rock protection to be divided and carried by the party.

Release from Liability (You will be asked to sign this before the climb.)

Mount Hamilton Spring 2008 Conditioning Hike



On Saturday, April 19 Keith Hill led a conditining hike up Mount Hamilton . Hikers include: Sue Nelson, Lisa Conrad, Jeff howell, Katie Niemeyer and Mike Niemeyer. We met at the trailhead at 8:30 am under snowy skies. The trail had a sprinkling of snow and boyscouts at the upper elevations. Occassional breaks in the clouds offer great views of a snow covered gorge.




(Topo from Portland Hikers website.)

satellite waypoints:


ESN:0-7352032 Latitude:45.6627 Longitude:-122.0182 Nearest Location: North Bonneville, United States Distance: 5 km(s) Time:04/19/2008 11:59:46 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=45.6627,-122.0182&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1


ESN:0-7352032 Latitude:45.659 Longitude:-122.0116 Nearest Location: North Bonneville, United States Distance: 4 km(s) Time:04/19/2008 11:26:57 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=45.659,-122.0116&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

ESN:0-7352032 Latitude:45.6326 Longitude:-122.0199 Nearest Location: Warrendale, United States Distance: 2 km(s) Time:04/19/2008 08:46:13 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=45.6326,-122.0199&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

"The Elevator" Gorge Hike





































"The elevator" is a close to portland conditioning hike with some challenging trail conditions and route-finding. Tim & Robyn smith, Keith Hill and Mike Niemeyer did this on April 5, 2008 under rainy skies. The upper portions were snow covered and we were pretty soaked by the time we got back to the car. Our route was a 12 mile or so loop the had us coming back down multnomah creek on the return leg.

OK ESN:0-7352032
This is Mike Niemeyer just checking in via SPOT satellite device so you can see my location - Everything is OK. ESN:0-7352032 Latitude:45.5687 Longitude:-122.0916 Nearest Location: Saint Cloud, United States Distance: 4 km(s) Time:04/05/2008 16:05:00 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=45.5687,-122.0916&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1


OK ESN:0-7352032
This is Mike Niemeyer just checking in via SPOT satellite device so you can see my location - Everything is OK. ESN:0-7352032 Latitude:45.5795 Longitude:-122.1085 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:04/05/2008 09:42:14 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=45.5795,-122.1085&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1


OK ESN:0-7352032
This is Mike Niemeyer just checking in via SPOT satellite device so you can see my location - Everything is OK. ESN:0-7352032 Latitude:45.5787 Longitude:-122.1181 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:04/05/2008 09:08:26 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=45.5787,-122.1181&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Table Mountain March 22


This is a tough, 8++-mile round-trip climb to the top of Table Mountain on the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) from the Bonneville Hot Springs resort. We departed took a Loop trail (Note that Washington Dept Natural resources has re-routed the upper portion of the trail) via a number of confusing road and trail interscetions to a very windy/exposed ridge. The push up the snow covered upper slope was made more challenging by 50 mph + winds that occassionally knocked us down. Most of the hiking is through the trees, but the summit of Table Mountain has spectacular views. Hikers: Keith Hill, Mike Niemeyer, Matt & Rebecca Tryon, Rick Slezak, Jeff Howell. The Hot springs is a nice facility , you can get a great hamburger meal ($9.95) in the pub and a soak in the hot springs ($15. )












Gear: Bring warm clothes, usual 10 essentials and snowshoes and treking poles.

Directions: From Salem take I5 to 205 North to I-84 east and exit at Cascade Locks. Cross the Columbia River via the Bridge of the Gods ($1 toll). Turn left onto Highway 14, drive 3 miles west to Hot Springs Way and turn right. Turn right at the stop sign onto East Cascade Drive and follow this for 1/2 mile to the Resort.

Reference:
http://portlandhikersfieldguide.org/wiki/Table_Mountain_from_Bonneville_Hike

Real Time Satellite data:

Latitude:45.6845 Longitude:-121.9855 Nearest Location: Moffetts Hot Springs, United States Distance: 4 km(s) Time:03/22/2008 22:13:59 (GMT)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=45.6845,-121.9855&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:45.6884 Longitude:-121.986 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:03/22/2008 21:58:53 (GMT)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=45.6884,-121.986&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:45.6925 Longitude:-121.983 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:03/22/2008 20:55:14 (GMT)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=45.6925,-121.983&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:45.688 Longitude:-121.9797 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:03/22/2008 19:49:48 (GMT)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=45.688,-121.9797&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:45.6855 Longitude:-121.9789 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:03/22/2008 19:20:35 (GMT)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=45.6855,-121.9789&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:45.6561 Longitude:-121.9589 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:03/22/2008 16:15:40 (GMT)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=45.6561,-121.9589&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

South Sister, March 22-23 Cancelled

THIS TRIP IS CANCELLED TODAY (3/17). AFTER A CALL TO THE RANGER IT WAS DETERMINED THAT THE CONDITIONS WILL BE TOO SOFT FOR AN APPROACH OF THIS DISTANCE. I'VE SET A CONDITIONING HIKE FOR TABLE MOUNTAIN ON SATURDAY, MARCH 22 AS AN ALTERNATE.

Easter sunrise service on the summit of South Sister? With the road to Mt St Helens under snow I've schedule a South Sister climb for the March 22-23 weekend. (Thank you to Keith Hill for being the leader assist on this.) I'll monitor the weather and make a go or no-go call no later than Thursday evening. I'll be checking in with everyone by phone on Tuesday evening, March 18th to see where we are at with carpooling and tent/stove sharing.



Climbers:

  1. Mike Niemeyer (leader) 503-910-9726
  2. Keith Hill (leader assist)
  3. Linda Bedard (climb assistant)
  4. Matt Tryon
  5. Rebecca Tryon
  6. Jeff Howell
Schedule & Route: Leave Salem State Motorpool Lot at 7 am Saturday, March 22 and drive to the town Sisters for restroom and transfat infusion at local Bakery. We will park at Dutchman Flat (about 6400 ft) along hwy 46 (near Mt Bachelor about 150 miles and 3 hrs from Salem) and snowshoe/hike the road to just above Moraine lake where we will snow camp at about 6900 ft (or possibly higher depending on conditions.) Sunday we will have an alpine start and head up the South side of S. Sister for the 10,358 ft summit and return to break camp and slog to the cars. We will stop in the town of Sisters for a meal on the way home. This is strenuous winter climb involving a 5,758 ft elevation gain and 22 miles of travel on snow (round trip.)

Participant responsibility: It is each participant's responsibility to be in good physical shape and have the skills and equipment (see below) to participate safely in this climb. A club release will be circulated at the trailhead for each participant to sign.

Required personal equipment: Ten or so essentials (map, compass, GPS if you have one, food, water, first aid, whistle, sunscreen, matches, fire starter, headlamp with extra batteries, emergency blanket or plastic mattress bag, knife.)


  1. Glacier glasses or wrap around sun glasses
  2. 2 liters water
  3. Food – one breakfast, one dinner, two lunches, snacks
  4. Stove, fuel and cookset (with extra fuel for melting water)
  5. Waterproof jacket and pants
  6. Layered clothing (no cotton), extra socks
  7. Gloves, mittens, over mitts if you have them, wool or fleece cap and balaclava
  8. Sit Pad
  9. Trekking Poles (recommended)
  10. Snowshoes
  11. 4 Season Tent/Snow anchors
  12. Snow Shovel (one per tent)
  13. Sleeping pad (Full length)
  14. Sleeping bag rated 20 degrees or below
  15. Warm, insulated waterproof boots or plastic boots
  16. Crampons that fit your boots (that you have fitted ahead of time)
  17. Gaiters
  18. Ice Axe
  19. Helmet
Emergencies: In addition to the personal gear (above) the leader will be carrying a SPOT satellite rescue beacon, GPS and cell phone (503-910-9726.) I will also be sending occasional satellite "check-in" messages to this blog during the trip. In the event of an emergency, I will send out a 911 signal from this device. We will be mostly in the Deschutes National Forest within Deschutes County. In case of an accident, call 911, or notify the Deschutes County Sheriff, 541-388-6502 (Search and Rescue). Use this second number if the party is overdue by 24 hours.

Local Emergency Contacts: If the party is overdue my local (Salem area) contact is Jackie Niemeyer 503-930-8782. She will communicate with the participant's families in the event of an accident.

Additional Information: Trail Conditions and Winter Conditions









Hiking trail map from Sullivans "100 Hikes in the Central Oregon Cascades (Paperback)"

Mt Hood Leuthold Coulior March 2, 2008


We attempted Mt Hood via Leuthold Coulier but stopped at illumination saddle due to avalanche conditions. We had wild temperature extremes from very cold and windy when we started to short-sleeve shirt weather on the return. Progress was also slowed by having to post-hole through loose snow. Scott broke trail and carried the rope!

Leader: Scott Phillips
Climbers: Mike McHugh; Sue Nelson; Greg Phillips;
Mike Niemeyer






Our planned Route: Our climb will start at Timberline Lodge and after a one mile hike, the first rest break will be at Silcox Hut (7,000’). After another mile and reaching the top of Palmer ski lift (8,600’) we will take another break. From there we head to Illumination Saddle (9,300’) and rope up. We will descend onto the Reid glacier and traverse to the bottom of the Leuthold where we might start to get some ice fall from the Leuthold. Without taking a break there we will head up the coulior through the Hourglass and to the Queens Chair (10,500’). Here we will take a deservedly longer break and then continue up to the ridge and on to the summit (11,239’). We will descend the South side, probably the Old Chute.
Time: 10-12 hours

I will be carrying my SPOT beacon, cell phone and GPS along with the usual gear.

12:00 midnight Leave from State Motor Pool
2:00 am Meet at Rest Area at Government Camp
2:30 am Meet at Climbers Registry
3:00 am Start Climb
10:00 am Summit
10:15 am Depart from Summit
3:00 pm Return to parking lot. Head back to Salem
5:30 pm Arrive in Salem

topo from http://www.matthewweaver.com/mountaineering/mthood0302/climbingroute.html




DATA FROM MY RESCUE BEACON:
-Unit Number: 0-7352032 Latitude: 45.3585 Longitude: -121.7055 Nearest Town from unit Location: Unknown Distance to the nearest town: Unknown Time in GMT the message was sent: 03/02/2008 15:38:47
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=45.3585,-121.7055&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

-Unit Number: 0-7352032
Latitude: 45.3523
Longitude: -121.7083
Nearest Town from unit Location: Unknown Distance to the nearest town: Unknown Time in GMT the message was sent: 03/02/2008 14:39:17
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=45.3523,-121.7083&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
-Latitude: 45.3444
Longitude: -121.7094
Nearest Town from unit Location: Unknown Distance to the nearest town: Unknown Time in GMT the message was sent: 03/02/2008 13:32:48
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=45.3444,-121.7094&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

-Unit Number: 0-7352032
Latitude: 45.3304
Longitude: -121.7084
Nearest Town from unit Location: Government Camp, United States Distance to the nearest town: 5 km(s) Time in GMT the message was sent: 03/02/2008 11:43:30
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=45.3304,-121.7084&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Smith Rock

Smith Rock February 17 & 18, 2008. Matt Niemeyer working "Float Like a Butterfly" 5.10b and "Low Blow" 5.10b and "Sting like a Bee" 5.10b/c. Matt also completed "Rope de dope crack" 5.8 and "How Low can you go" 5.6. Mike lead "How Low.." and attempted a lead of an unnamed route on the Smith rock group.







Government Camp Snowshoe Feb 10


Roof of Mazama lodge showing recent snow loading (exterior doors were out of square due to weight on structure.)

Mt Hood Workout - January 21, 2008

Scott Kelley and Mike Niemeyer's trip Mt Hood was a bust. At the Timberline parking lot the car was being rocked around and it was very hard to stand up. Mt Hood weather station showed avg wind spead at 6,600ft of 47 and high of 76 mph with air temp of 1 degree at 9 am (thats a wind chill of -34.) We hiked around a bit to test gear and marvel at the futility of trying to function in those conditions. My test of the SPOT satellite device by sending some "check-in" messages to his blog seemed to work fine.

See same-day news video of snow blowing off Mt Hood http://www.katu.com/home/video/13951822.html?video=pop&t=a

OK Unit Number: 0-7352032

This is Mike Niemeyer just checking in via SPOT satellite device so you can see my location - Everything is OK.
Unit Number: 0-7352032
Latitude: 45.3306
Longitude: -121.7084
Nearest Town from unit Location: Government Camp, United States
Distance to the nearest town: 5 km(s)
Time in GMT the message was sent: 01/21/2008 18:58:12

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=45.3306,-121.7084&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Mt Adams - Mazama Glacier July 12-13, 2008





On July 12-13, 2008 our team of 7 successfully summited Mt Adams climb via Mazama Glacier. This was a beautiful but physically demanding carry-over route with 6,800+ elevation gain and a great glissade descent (via standard south side route) and a major forest fire thrown in to add to the adventure. Photos show fire from space and from the climbers trail on Sunday July 13, 2008 .
From the Oregonian (click for full article): "Forest Service workers helped about 200 hikers walk down off Mount Adams as fire-retardant material was dropped from the air and one or two 20-man crews from the Gifford Pinchot National Forest fought the blaze from the ground. But ripe conditions quickly made their efforts obsolete. "It's not uncommon for small lightning-strike fires to creep along the ground undetected until they hit fuel," Ries said. "We had a dry, hot, windy day and combined with this beetle-kill timber -- standing and fallen dead timber -- it just went poof."
KATU News Photos of the fire

KOMO News photos of fire

For a current view of the fire from space

Roster
1. Mike Niemeyer (Leader)
2. Keith Hill (leader Assist)
3. Matt Tryon
4. Rebecca Tryon
5. Brian Kier
6. Dan Domrose
7. Tim Donovan



































Post-Climb report


We stuck pretty much to the schedule in the prospectus on the drivein on Saturday July 12, 2008. When we arrived at the Trout Lake Ranger station we were informed that there had been 250 climbers registered in the previous day for the standard South-side route and another 25 that morning before we arrived. We were grateful we had chosen the road-less-traveled via the Mazama glacier. To save wear and tear on the vehicles (but not the climbers) we left Brian's Honda truck at the ranger station and his passengers climbed into the back of my pickup for the bumpy ride up the rough single-lane dirt road to the crowded cold spring Camp trailhead "parking area" at 5,400 ft. The team was amazingly efficient at getting their gear together and we hit the trail at about 10:15 am (45 minutes ahead of schedule.) As this was my second outing as a provisional climb leader I was careful to count the number of climbers I had at the trailhead, as its club policy that you are supposed to come back with the same number. (We actually came down with one extra, Pat Leach of Seattle, so that gave me a bit of a buffer.)


At the junction of the South Side trail (#183) and the "round the mountain" trail (#9) we left the masses behind and headed east on untrodden snow following my GPS track from a previous trip. We basically stuck with the round the mountain trail, travelling East 1-3/4 miles through the A.G. Aiken Lava Bed. We then turned North and headed cross-country on snow & rock to the summer camp above bird creek meadows and an area just below a large moraine. On a tip from my leader-assist Keith Hill we followed a trail from that camp area and climbed up the lower part of the moraine (that variation is not reflected on my GPS track below - I'll update that with the track from this trip later.) This variation kept us below the Mazama glacier and saved us having to rope up. We dropped down the moraine to a splended, aqua-blue glacial pond about 700ft below Sunrise camp and took a very short break at this beautiful oasis. (A good leader can sense when people are starting to have fun, I reminded them that we were mountaineers and that we neede to continued on.) We traveled over the toe of the Mazama Glacier and arrived at Sunrise Camp (8300.’) We were pleased to find the ground free of snow. The sunrise camp area continues to be enhanced each year and Matt and Rebecca's spot featured a massive rock wall around, an extra room and their kitchen area even had granite counter tops. I talked with a team that had just descended the Mazama glacier and they reported firm conditions during the morning. After setting up camp we did "passing through a picket" and cravasse rescue drills, ate dinner and got to bed early under clear skies.

We awoke at 3 am on Sunday, July 13th. By 4 am we were roped into two teams and traveling with crampons up the Mazama glacier. We had ideal climbing conditions with clear skies, little wind and firm snow. We negotiated the crevasses of the lower mazama glacier traveling on the north (climbers right) portion of the glacier. (Another 3-person team was just as successful going up the middle. ) I placed pickets as we moved through the crevassed area and we maintained a slow steady pace to about 10,000 ft where we took a much needed break. As we contiued up the next snow slope we could get a view to the south and Keith and I noted a plume of smoke rising steadly from what looked like the Cold Springs campground area. We tried to get cell reception to call it in and get an update, but couldn't make the connection. We climbed up to Pikers peak and joined the legons of South-side climbers at about 9:00 am. We happily dropped our packs and arrived at the summit about 10:30 am.

After summit photos Keith was kind enough to tie everyone's crampons onto the outside of his pack to facilitate the glissade off the summit for the rest of us. We arrived back at Pikers Peak to find the fire below had grown significantly, flames shooting up well above the forest canopy. Keith and I reassured the less experienced climbers at this point with remarks like "Damn, I've never seen anything like that before..." and "This doesn't look good..." We then jumped on the awesome glissade rut that took us from over 11,000 ft down to the "lunch counter" at about 9'000ft. As we bombed down the slope, passing those laboring up the mountain, the banked turns and deep ruts allowed us to relax and take in the Towering Inferno" in-flight movie before us. Our concern grew as we got lower and it was clear our route was taking us directly towards the fire.

At about 7,500ft I was able to get cell coverage and called 911. I explained that we were descending towards Cold Springs Camp and directly towards the fire and asked for instructions. We were advised that the road was impassible due to the fire and that rangers were on the mountain and we should contact them as we continued down on the south side route. We were at 7,500 ft or so and about to move off of the snow field and into the forest. At this point a woman ran uphill past us screaming somthing like "The fire is out of control! There are injuries! Cars on fire! Run uphill! As fast as you can!..." and she continued running frantically uphill. We caucused with the team and were joined by another climber, Pat Leach of Seattle. Keith went on ahead with a radio (I had the other) to locate the ranger and we sought shade just at the snowfield/ forest interface, should we need to retreat uphill. Keith made contact with the ranger and we engaged in a frustrating 10 minute broken radio conversation Keith:"...ranger advises that you....immediately..." Mike: "Keith, what was that?" Keith: "..follow my steps down...but don't go near the..." Mike: "huh", Keith:"Just have everyone........right now........you....moron... " We ultimately communicated and the group decended down to the keith and ranger. A short steep snow slope gave Brian a chance to practice is full-pack self arrest technique, his slide somewhat abated by taking out Rebecca along the way.

We made it down to the ranger where we were advised that we needed to wait there till conditions improved. She said that they didn't know if that would be minutes, hours or overnight. We waited there at about 7,000 ft, counted about 8 power bars and half a bag of jelly bellies among the 9 of us (If you believe the information everyone volunteered.) Tim informed the group that his body was riddled with toxins, should the group resort to cannibalism. After about 40 minutes the ranger reappeared and informed us that the wind had shifted and that they wanted us to move down to cold springs right away where cars were being staged to evacuate. We descended towards the fire but, thankfully, the trail headed west and we ended up upwind of the fire when we arrived at the trailhead.

We didn't have to wait too long before our truck was allowed to leave. We passed fire crews and an area covered in red fire retardant fairly soon. Heavy equipment was being staged lower on the road. At Trout Creek we stopped at the corner restaurant and enjoyed real food and distributed the special Chemeketan aluminum foil climb certificates, awarded only to those who summit a glaciated cascade peak, inhale fire retardant and walk through walls of flame and smoke.

Pre-Trip Prospectus:

Current Route Conditions Mt Adams


Current weather

As of July 6th the road to the trailhead at Cold springs campground is open (I was up there today) and the first part of the trail was bare dirt with patchy snow. There were numerous parties comming down thesouth side route which they reported was in good shape. Bird Creek meadow is not yet open, So the plan is to carpool from the salem state motorpool to the ranger station in trout creek. We will pile into my truck for the ride up a bad dirt road to the trailhead at cold creek and go with the Mazama glacier up and Adams south side down as originally planned ( 12.5 miles RT and 6562 elevation gain.)

Driving directions: From Salem, drive north on I-5 to I-84 East to Hood River. Cross the Columbia River, turn left on Hwy 14 for 1.5 miles, then right on Alt. 141 which merges with 141 in a few miles. Stay north on 141 until reaching Trout Lake, about 23 miles from the Columbia River. When you arrive at Trout Lake, stay left at the Chevron Station. Go one mile to the USFS Ranger Station. We will meet at the Ranger Station, register for the climb permits ($15.00 each) and convoy to the trailhead at Cold Springs Campground (Follow the signs for Mt. Adams Recreation Area, and to “South Climb” trailhead.) NW Forest Pass for parking.

Route: Summit 12, 276 This climb is rated S2. The Mazama Glacier Route is the second most popular route on Mt. Adams. It is suitable for intermediate climbers and requires roped travel with ice axes and crampons. Hike and climb is a carry-over with 15 miles round trip with ~6,800' elevation gain. It is a physically demanding climb. In other words we will carry our full packs to near the summit, and return on a different route (the commonly-climbed “south spur”). While not as high as Rainier, this massive volcanic peak has about the same volume with Adams covering about 270 square miles.

PRE-TRIP MEETING - July 8th at 6:00 pm at the Chemeketaden in Salem. It's critical for a carryover trip like this to share whatever we can and pack only the essentials and are traveling as light as possible. I'm holding this pre-meeting to discuss sharing equipment, packing smart & light for a carry-over, crevasse rescue, itinerary, and carpooling. Bring a snack/beverage to share for this meeting, if you’d like. If you cannot come, please contact the leader.

CLIMBING ITINERARY:
Day #1 – Saturday, Approach
6:00 am Meet at Salem Motor Pool
9:00 am Meet at Trout Lake Ranger Station
11:00 am Leave trailhead (5540’), hike up south side climber’s trail to Round the Mountain Trail. Travel east on this trail 1-3/4 miles through the A.G. Aiken Lava Bed. Head cross-country on snow & rock and over the toe of the Mazama Glacier to Sunrise Camp (8300’) at the northwest end of the Ridge of Wonders where the Mazama and Klickitat Glaciers divide.
Daily mileage/Elevation gain: 6 miles/2800’.

Day #2 – Sunday – Full-pack glacier ascent, summit, and descent
3 am Wake up and pack up
4 am Rope up and depart on Mazama Glacier
10:00 am Reach False Summit (Piker’s Peak – 11657’)
11 am Summit (12276’)
12:30 pm Descend
4:00 pm Return to cars at Cold Springs
7:30 pm Return to Salem
Daily mileage/Elevation gain: 9 miles/gain 4000’/loss: 6800’.

CLIMBING SKILLS REQUIRED: Roped glacier climbing, crevasse rescue, glissade. Participants are encouraged to review crevasse rescue, self arrest, and sitting glissade techniques prior to the climb. Anyone going on the climb must be in very good condition! Climbers not able to keep pace with the group may be turned back at the leader’s discretion.

EQUIPMENT:
See overnight snow climb personal equipment list

Shared camping equipment: Stove, fuel, cooking pan, water filter (iodine preferable due to low weight compared to filter pumps or you may choose to just drink out of the creek), tent (unless you are using a bivy sack.)



Group Gear: To be distributed by the leader at the trailhead and redistributed periodically during the climb: Ropes, pickets and a few ice screws.



General information:
Maps: USGS 7 ½ minute series, Mt. Adams East, USDA Forest Service Mt. Adams Wilderness map, Green Trails Mt. Adams #367S. Books:"Cascade Alpine Guide", Fred Becky; "Selected Climbs in the Cascades", Jim Nelson & Peter Potterfield (The Mountaineers, 1993); Climbers Guide to the Cascade Volcanoes, Jeff Smoot

Camping conditions: There are 6-7 well fortified tent sites at Sunrise Camp (8,300') with enough flat area for many more. Running water is available via glacial melt at Sunrise Camp. Water purification (filter or iodine) is recommended. High wind is possible so plan your tent selection accordingly. Given the need to keep weight down leader will be using a bivy sack.

Cancellation: The Leader will monitor weather forecasts, and the decision to cancel will be made in town on Friday no later than 12:00pm. Check this blog for updates. If you do not hear from the Leader by this time, assume the climb is still on and meet at the location listed above. Be sure the Leader has your correct email address and check this blog if the weather is questionable.

Emergencies: If the party is late in returning from the mountain, concerned friends or relatives should contact Jackie Niemeyer at 503-930-8782 or the Mt. Adams Ranger District, Trout Lake Ranger Station at 509-395-3400. If the party is in trouble leader will activate SPOT satellite beacon. Leader is also carrying GPS and cell phone.

GPS Waypoints (These waypoints are from my 2006 climb of this route, units are UTM NAD27 CONUS)













01-COLDSPRINGS CAMPGROUND-TRAILHEAD, 10 T 616119 5110038
02-5531ft, 10 T 616086 5110291
03-5760ft, 10 T 616382 5110241
04-5853ft, 10 T 616272 5110477
05-5747ft, 10 T 616305 5110539
06-5783ft, 10 T 616335 5110570
07-5908ft, 10 T 616311 5110810
08-6006ft, 10 T 616340 5111052
09-6160-jct, 10 T 616630 5111185
10-6185ft, 10 T 616805 5111176
11-6209ft, 10 T 616905 5111024
12-6234ft, 10 T 617496 5111036
13-6352ft, 10 T 617850 5111349
14-6423-exit_tr, 10 T 618216 5111488 (ROUND THE MT. TRAIL JUNCTION)
15-6562ft, 10 T 618231 5111761
16-6573ft, 10 T 618210 5111767
17-6832ft, 10 T 618390 5112358
18-6889ft, 10 T 618513 5112529
18-7018ft, 10 T 618590 5112725
19-7092ft, 10 T 618561 5112815
20, 10 T 618910 5113154
21-7382ft, 10 T 618885 5113373
22-7546ft, 10 T 618760 5113374
23-7724ft, 10 T 618465 5113669
24-8275ft, 10 T 618416 5114644
25-8376ft, 10 T 618318 5114742
26-8384ft, 10 T 618533 5115017
27-8366ft, 10 T 618614 5115006
SUNRISE CAMP 10 T 618734 5115113
29-8354ft, 10 T 618601 5115087
30-9853ft, 10 T 617634 5115731
31-10007ft, 10 T 617577 5115872
32-10259, 10 T 617423 5115990
33-10736, 10 T 617156 5116024
34-10775, 10 T 617147 5116054
35-10960, 10 T 617037 5116127
36-11025, 10 T 616968 5116129
37-11288, 10 T 616826 5116240
38-11337, 10 T 616803 5116240
39-11495, 10 T 616760 5116309
40-11506-packs, 10 T 616725 5116314 (DROP PACKS FOR RTN TRIP)
41-11561, 10 T 616688 5116449
42-11705, 10 T 616551 5116936
43-11825, 10 T 616488 5117034
44-12089, 10 T 616524 5117209
45-MT ADAMS SUMMIT12277FT, 10 T 616384 5117345
44-12089, 10 T 616524 5117209
43-11825, 10 T 616488 5117034
42-11705, 10 T 616551 5116936
40-11506-packs, 10 T 616725 5116314
46-9514ft, 10 T 617200 5115120
47-8097ft, 10 T 616586 5113559
48-7398ft, 10 T 616575 5112964
49-6710ft, 10 T 616569 5111997
50-6516ft, 10 T 616841 5111611
51-6485ft, 10 T 616801 5111507
52-6340ft, 10 T 616747 5111267
09-6160-jct, 10 T 616630 5111185
08-6006ft, 10 T 616340 5111052
07-5908ft, 10 T 616311 5110810
06-5783ft, 10 T 616335 5110570
05-5747ft, 10 T 616305 5110539
04-5853ft, 10 T 616272 5110477
03-5760ft, 10 T 616382 5110241
02-5531ft, 10 T 616086 5110291
01-Coldsprgs-TH, 10 T 616119 5110038


Real-Time Satellite position during the trip via SPOT Satellite device:
Latitude:46.1622
Longitude:-121.4907
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:07/13/2008 13:16:28 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.1622,-121.4907&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:46.1652
Longitude:-121.4901
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:07/13/2008 13:02:51 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.1652,-121.4901&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:46.1804
Longitude:-121.4867
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:07/13/2008 12:23:04 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.1804,-121.4867&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:46.2016
Longitude:-121.4926
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:07/13/2008 10:33:19 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.2016,-121.4926&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

OK ESN:0-7352032
Latitude:46.1921
Longitude:-121.4884
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:07/13/2008 08:56:49 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.1921,-121.4884&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:46.1904
Longitude:-121.486
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:07/13/2008 08:34:22 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.1904,-121.486&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:46.1881
Longitude:-121.4791
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:07/13/2008 06:25:55 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.1881,-121.4791&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:46.1861
Longitude:-121.4705
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:07/13/2008 05:58:58 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.1861,-121.4705&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:46.1811
Longitude:-121.4627
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:07/12/2008 15:45:26 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.1811,-121.4627&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:46.154
Longitude:-121.4691
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:07/12/2008 12:04:12 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.154,-121.4691&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

Latitude:46.1442
Longitude:-121.4846
Nearest Location:not known
Distance:not known
Time:07/12/2008 11:04:16 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.1442,-121.4846&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1

DB Cooper Climb Certificate


Climbers. To support the FBI's renewed efforts to track down the elusive DBCooper I will be proposing to the Chemeketan Climb leaders that we instutitute the DB Cooper Climb certificate for anyone who summits both Mt Adams and Mt St Helens in the same year while carrying a cheap briefcase. For additional details click on picture at left or see the FBI website at http://www.fbi.gov/page2/nov06/cooper112406.htm

Elliot Glacier Ice School 2007

Steve, Doughtery's 2007 ice school was a big success with good weather, a fun group and lots of ice....oh yeah, and he even cooked up a ton of Octoberfest sausages on the glacier. Speaking of cooking - a big thank you to Jim Collins for great meals as the camp cook. For full trip details see steve's website at http://cascadeadventures.net/ Also, thank you to brian and Amy for your pictures - a few of which I "borrowed" for this blog. Leader: Steve Dougherty: Co Leaders Keith Hill; Scott Phillips; Kirk Kraschel; Herb Fecker Assistant Leader Robyn Smith; Gregory Phillips; Mike Niemeyer; Linda Bedard; Jerry Croft; Jess Palacios Climb Team: Matthew Tryon; James Collins;Brian Kier; Susie Callahan; Dan Sewell; Jane Morris; Rick Slezak; Rebecca Tryon; Brad Dougherty; Amy Palacios; Jackie Niemeyer (day 1)

Route to practice area at lower end of Elliot Glacier North side of Mt Hood: We started at Cloud Cap Saddle Campground and followed Timberline Trail (USFS 600), south one mile to the east Eliot Glacier moraine. (Leave Timberline Trail and follow a climbers' trail up Cooper Spur. ) This was about a two mile scramble and 1,100 ft elevation gain. Driving Directions From Salem take I-5 north to Woodburn (Exit 271) 18 miles. Drive 47 miles on Hwy 211 through the towns of Molalla, Colton, Estacada, and Eagle Creek to Sandy. Drive east 25 miles on Hwy 26 to Government Camp. About two miles past Government Camp take Hwy 35 North towards Hood River. Drive about 18 miles north to Cooper Spur Road. Turn west onto the Cooper Spur Road and drive about 2.5 miles to the Cooper Spur Ski Area road. Turn left and follow the road for less than a mile. At the first fork, stay right. At the second fork take the right unpaved fork (the left fork goes to the parking area for Cooper Spur Ski area) and drive about nine miles to Cloud Cap Inn. Several hundred yards before Cloud Cap Inn, park at a small USFS campground called Cloud Cap Saddle.


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