On Saturday May 7th, 2016 I'll be leading a Chemeketan intermediate snow skills class. We will carpool up to Mt Hood on Saturday morning, arriving at Timberline Lodge parking area (same place as for climb school) between 8 and 8:30 AM. (Note: No snow park permit needed.) After gearing up and hiking to the training area we will practice intermediate snow skills including:- intro to avalanche assessment/snow pit tests,
- belaying, and escaping belays, off a snow anchor
- z-pulley rescues and
- (for the newer climbers) some exposure to crampon use.
To register email Mike Niemeyer at mikessummits@gmail.com with your contact information and a brief explanation of your climbing experience (If you just finished climb school and have no other experience that's fine - just let me know so we can plan accordingly.)
- Mike Niemeyer (Leader)
- Milan Apeltauer
- Bauer, Kelly
- Benitez, Fernando (Helper)
- Blanton, Craig (Helper)
- Elston, Kevin
- Folin, Steve
- Fredrickson, Justin
- Gill, Forrest (Helper)
- Hart, Gary
- Ibele, Austin
- Lande, Peter
- Salaz, Chris (Provisional leader)
- Starr, Bryan
- Wolfgang, Jared
- Surely (Ken) Jones (Helper)
- Tyler Plagmann
- Sue Nelson (Helper)
- Kelley Simons
- Gordon Kenyon
- Jay Howe (Helper)
- Josef Larsen
- Jason Bittel
- Emily Bittel
- Christopher W. Leesman
- Leif Wisdahl
- Aaron Lopez
- For the recent climb school students with little snow experience this will be an opportunity to practice being an effective member of a roped team on snow/glacier. This includes: being able to efficiently tie into the rope system, move confidently on steep snow using crampons and ice axe, clip efficiently through snow anchors and self-rescue after a fall into a crevasse.
- For the more experienced climbers and assistants this is an opportunity to set up and lead a rope team, belay off of an anchor to bring the team up to your location on steep terrain, and set up and execute a rescue using a z pulley system (for this later skill we will be looking at managing the rescue scene and teamwork - not just the mechanics of building a z-pulley).
 |
| Snow pit compression tests |
Equipment:
We will be getting into steep snow conditions for this outing. Ice axe, harness, helmet and crampons (fitted to your boots ahead of time) are required. Crampon compatible boots and gators. Sunglasses are also required. I recommend that you pack as you would for a Mt Hood Climb. this will be a good chance to test your gear and food/water options out. Prussik cords are required. Pulleys, a couple extra carabiners and shovels will be helpful if you have them. I'd like to have one shovel per rope team.
Please have your gear together and be prepared to carry some group gear (ropes, shovels, etc.) Its best to have a larger pack and have some external straps for lashing down a rope and strapping on an ice axe (i.e., don't come with a small textbook type daypack. I've got nothing against Care Bears but their equipment line rarely includes ice axe loops.)
We will be getting into the snow so a waterproof outer shell layer is important and an extra set of gloves to swap out when your first pair gets wet. See Gear List #4. Bring plenty of water (at least 2 liters) and food as we won't be returning to the cars during the day. Leader will be carrying, hypowrap materials, first aid kit and cell phone 503-910-9726. If you have a Motorola type recreationall radio please bring it set to Channel 10 code 5.
Location
We will head NE out of the Timberline parking lot and about 1000 ft vertical to seek some suitable steep terrain on the edge of the white river canyon.
Please have your gear together and be prepared to carry some group gear (ropes, shovels, etc.) Its best to have a larger pack and have some external straps for lashing down a rope and strapping on an ice axe (i.e., don't come with a small textbook type daypack. I've got nothing against Care Bears but their equipment line rarely includes ice axe loops.)
We will be getting into the snow so a waterproof outer shell layer is important and an extra set of gloves to swap out when your first pair gets wet. See Gear List #4. Bring plenty of water (at least 2 liters) and food as we won't be returning to the cars during the day. Leader will be carrying, hypowrap materials, first aid kit and cell phone 503-910-9726. If you have a Motorola type recreationall radio please bring it set to Channel 10 code 5.
Location
We will head NE out of the Timberline parking lot and about 1000 ft vertical to seek some suitable steep terrain on the edge of the white river canyon.
For carpooling Saturday morning those leaving from the Salem Motor pool lot should plan on leaving at 6:00 am. I'll send a group email out to give you a chance to connect with others for a ride. Please don't plan on showing up at the park-and-ride lot without pre-arranging a ride - there may not be anyone there! State Motor Pool in Salem - This will be the best option for folks in Salem or points south. Let me know if you are interested in this option.
Training Curriculum:1) Planning Meeting- For those of you attending the Chemeketan Climb School April 1st I'll be available after our closing ceremony at Timberline lodge to answer any questions you might have about gear or preparation for the intermediate snow class. If that doesn't work for you feel free to email or call me with any questions.
2) Group assembles at the end of the "climbers" parking lot: Assign teams; Issue group gear: Pickets (1 per person) shovels (1 per team), ropes (1 x 50 meter half-rope per team). Leaders check teams gear (e.g., no sharp things swinging off of the packs, everyone has sunglasses, has put on sunblock, etc) FRS radios to Channel 10 Code 5.
2) Once in our practice area we will do snow pit tests to access avalanche conditions and discuss snow cave construction. I have a snow saw and various snow assessment tools. We will be doing the compression test after digging out and isolating a snow column and also assessing the hardness of the snow layers.
3) Establishing and moving rope teams rigged for Glacier travel. The goal of this exercise is for the recent climb school students to practice being an effective member of a roped team on snow/glacier. This includes: being able to efficiently tie into the rope system and move confidently on steep snow. (For the more experienced climbers and assistants this is an opportunity to set up and lead a rope team.) The rope team leader will take their team to an area suitable for crevasse rescue practice. (Coaching on good rope management , improving steps, etc.)
4) Crevasse rescue scenario: The goal of this exercise is for the recent climb school students be able to self-rescue after a fall into a crevasse using prussiks and gain familiarity with the Z-pulley system. For the more experienced climbers and assistants set up and execute a rescue using a z pulley system (for this later skill we will be looking at managing the rescue scene and teamwork - not just the mechanics of building a z-pulley). SCENARIO: Rope team members 1 and 2 arrest fall of member #3 and set up z Pulley. Member #3 initiates self-rescue. This will be a full scenario beginning with the fall and team arrest. (i.e. not just the mechanical aspects of rigging the system)
5) Belaying on steep snow: The goal of this exercise is For the recent climb school students be able to belay the leader on steep snow. For the more experienced climbers and assistants this is a chance to practice establishing and belaying off of anchors on steep snow and, as time allows, escaping the belay using a Munter-Mule.
