On Saturday May 9th, 2015 I'll be leading a Chemeketan intermediate snow skills class. There will be an optional pre-trip classroom session at the Chemeketan Den at 6 Pm on Wednesday, April 29th. (The Chemekeden is located at 360-1/2 State Street, Salem. Above Cooks Stationary Store) We will briefly review core skills - this is mainly an opportunity to talk about the gear you'll need and discuss logistics like carpooling. We will carpool up to Mt Hood on Saturday, arriving at Timberline Lodge parking area (same place as for climb school) arriving between 8 and 8:30 AM. (Note: No snow park permit needed.) After gearing up and hiking to the training area we will practice intermediate snow skills including:- intro to avalanche assessment/snow pit tests,
- belaying, and escaping belays, off a snow anchor
- z-pulley rescues and
- (for the newer climbers) some exposure to crampon use.
To register email Mike Niemeyer at mikessummits@gmail.com with your contact information and a brief explanation of your climbing experience (If you just finished climb school and have no other experience that's fine - just let me know so we can plan accordingly.)
Roster
- Mike Niemeyer (Leader)
- Mason Smith (leader)
- Mike Rudy (leader)
- Mike Pennington (Assistant)
- Jack Myrtue (Assistant)
- Chris Salaz (Assistant)
- Jate Rademaker
- Mark Olson
- Wiliam Davis
- Conor Foley
- Kenneth (Surley) Scott
- Katelyn Dixon
- Clyde Forrest
- Christopher Canfield
- Aaron Reyna
- Greg Skaer
- Ben Slothower
- Stuart Butsch
- Jeff Ball
- For the recent climb school students with little snow experience this will be an opportunity to practice being an effective member of a roped team on snow/glacier. This includes: being able to efficiently tie into the rope system, move confidently on steep snow using crampons and ice axe, clip efficiently through snow anchors and self-rescue after a fall into a crevasse.
- For the more experienced climbers and assistants this is an opportunity to set up and lead a rope team, belay off of an anchor to bring the team up to your location on steep terrain, and set up and execute a rescue using a z pulley system (for this later skill we will be looking at managing the rescue scene and teamwork - not just the mechanics of building a z-pulley).
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| Snow pit compression tests |
Equipment:
We will be getting into steep snow conditions for this outing. Ice axe, harness, helmet and crampons (fitted to your boots ahead of time) are required. Crampon compatible boots and gators. Sunglasses are also required. I recommend that you pack as you would for a Mt Hood Climb. this will be a good chance to test your gear and food/water options out. Prussik cords are required. Pulleys and shovels will be helpful if you have them. I'd like to have one shovel per rope team. Please have your gear together and be prepared to carry some group gear (ropes, shovels, etc.) Its best to have a larger pack and have some external straps for lasing down a rope and strapping on an ice axe (i.e., don't come with a small textbook type daypack. I've got nothing against Care Bears but their equipment line rarely includes ice axe loops.) We will be getting into the snow so a waterproof outer shell layer is important and an extra set of gloves to swap out when your first pair gets wet. See Gear List #4. Bring plenty of water (at least 2-3 liters) and food as we won't be returning to the cars during the day. Leader will be carrying SPOT beacon, hypowrap materials, first aid kit and cell phone 503-910-9726.
Location
We will head NE out of the Timberline parking lot and about 1000 ft vertical to seek some suitable steep terrain on the edge of the white river canyon.
Location
We will head NE out of the Timberline parking lot and about 1000 ft vertical to seek some suitable steep terrain on the edge of the white river canyon.
For carpooling Saturday morning those leaving from the Salem Motor pool lot should plan on leaving at 6:30 am. I'll send a group email out on 5/2/15 to give you a chance to connect with others for a ride. Please don't plan on showing up at the park-and-ride lot without pre-arranging a ride - there may not be anyone there! State Motor Pool in Salem - This will be the best option for folks in Salem or points south. Let me know if you are interested in this option.
Training Curriculum:1) Group assembles at the end of the "climbers" parking lot: Assign teams; Issue group gear: Pickets (1 per person) shovels (1 per team), ropes (1 x 50meter half-rope per team). Leaders check teams gear (e.g., no sharp things swinging off of the packs, everyone has sunglasses, has put on sunblock, etc) FRS radios to Channel 10 Code 5.
2) Once in our practice area we will do snow pit tests to access avalanche conditions and discuss snow cave construction. I have a snow saw and various snow assessment tools. We will be doing the compression test after digging out and isolating a snow column and also assessing the hardness of the snow layers.
3) Establishing and moving rope teams rigged for Glacier travel. The goal of this exercise is for the recent climb school students to practice being an effective member of a roped team on snow/glacier. This includes: being able to efficiently tie into the rope system and move confidently on steep snow. (For the more experienced climbers and assistants this is an opportunity to set up and lead a rope team.) The rope team leader will take their team to an area suitable for crevasse rescue practice. (Coaching on good rope management , improving steps, etc.)
4) Crevasse rescue scenario: The goal of this exercise is for the recent climb school students be able to self-rescue after a fall into a crevasse using prussiks and gain familiarity with the Z-pulley system. For the more experienced climbers and assistants set up and execute a rescue using a z pulley system (for this later skill we will be looking at managing the rescue scene and teamwork - not just the mechanics of building a z-pulley). SCENARIO: Rope team members 1 and 2 arrest fall of member #3 and set up z Pulley. Member #3 initiates self-rescue. This will be a full scenario beginning with the fall and team arrest. (i.e. not just the mechanical aspects of rigging the system)
5) Belaying on steep snow: The goal of this exercise is For the recent climb school students be able to belay the leader on steep snow. For the more experienced climbers and assistants this is a chance to practice establishing and belaying off of anchors on steep snow and, as time allows, escaping the belay using a Munter-Mule.
