Belaying and Bandaging: Chemeketan Ice School Oct 20-21, 2012

Chemeketan Ice School Oct 20-21, 2012

CANCELLED DUE TO WEATHER

The weather forecast has up to 16" of snow falling over the weekend at this location making it likely the road will close for the season sometime this weekend. Dang!

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There will be an optional pre-climb meeting at the Chemeketan den on State Street from 6 to 7:30 pm on Wednesday, October 17th. We will go over the goals for the weekend, discuss gear and camping and carpool arrangements. This will also be an opportunity for a last minute cancellation if the weather is threatening (Mt Hood weather at 6,300ft and current forest road conditions - we are using road 3512.)

We will spend two days on Mt. Hood's Eliot Glacier practicing ice axe and crampon techniques (See video links below). The practice sessions will give the beginning climber an understanding of what their equipment can do and make them more confident when these skills are needed on a high angle glacier. Day 1 The focus will be improving your skills, no matter what level you are, at safe and efficient travel (roped and unroped) over steep, icy terrain. We will push off from the camp at 8 am on Saturday. Day 2 will get more vertical and, for those interested, an opportunity to build a variety of anchors including ice screw placements and v-thread technique. Participants may have an opportunity to simulate a crevasse self-rescue by being lowered into a crevasse and using their prussic slings to climb out using two tooling techniques. Looking for more? Sure you might have done an ice climbing outing with the Santiam Alpine club or Mazamas but have they ever taught you the leap-across-the-200ft-void-with-nitro-in-your-pack technique?

Gear - #1 We don't really care if you show up in flip-flops and a tank top as long as you've properly applied the correct deodorant (photo right.) Beyond that, you might also want to dress for the weather and bring ice axe, helmet and crampons. We usually have plenty of ice tools to share so you won't need to rent tools. You can get through the weekend with firm leather mountaineering boots with a good shank (i.e. you can't bend the soles) but consider renting plastic boots if you just have standard, flexible soled, hiking boots. See gear lists #1 and #4 for other suggestions.

We will be car camping at Cloud Cap Saddle Campground on Saturday night. A few of us will be up at the campground on Friday.) The campground is at about 5,800 ft elevation, has picnic tables, water and pit toilets. There are three camping sites and a fee for camping. Cars must display a Northwest Forest Pass. The Cloud Cap Saddle Campground is located near the end of the Forest Road 3512. At the end of the FR 3512, about 680 feet beyond the parking area for the trailhead and campground, is an additional parking area and turn-a-round. Check the link above for last-minute forest road closures. This will be a long drive from Salem to the campground 124 miles and about 3 hours one way via US 26. Directions here. Mary Wandell is coordinating a couple of group potluck meals for us, use this link to indicate what you can bring.

Leaders:

Mike Niemeyer

Bryan Snapp

Mike Rudy

Climbers and Assistants:

Michael Gurley

Seth Lucas

Chad Mangers

Mike Pennington M

Mark W. Olson

Erin Dubuc

Megan Hogland

Bud Littleton

Fernando Benitez

Jack Myrtue

Theresa Conley
Dan Rudolph
Aislinn Adams
Brett Milliken
Cipriano manon-munoz
Nat Lichten
Justin Ego
Cathy Lazarus

Stephen Rockford

Brad Wood

Justin Clark
Mary Wandell

It is a two mile hike to the practice area on the Eliot Glacier (1100' elevation gain). Since the practice area is within the Mt. Hood Wilderness Area, we will need to split our group into smaller autonomous parties of 12 or less.

Family and friends are welcome to join the camping and hiking, for climbing/class the prerequisite is Chemeketan Climb School or equivalent.

Resources: