Mt Hood "Old Chute Route" April 29th

From Scott Phillips climb summary:

Leading team members: Scott Phillips, Provisional Leader, Kris Richardson, Leader Assist, Assistants: Robyn Smith and Mike Niemeyer. First ascent of Mt Hood for: Gary Greenwood, Jay Howe, Tim Donovan, Philip Gray, Bill Langdon and Joel Bruhn. Attempted: Tim Smith and Bill Kelley.

We started climbing in cool weather with a full entourage of 12 team members.
[Note photo in climbers registration area, Scott has just completed his 20 minute demonstration on the use of the blue-bag system]

After donning crampons at the top of the Palmer lift we continued for another hour and was told by Tim Smith that he decided to not continue with the climb because of fatigue; Bill Kelley volunteered to return with him since he too was not feeling 100%. The rest of the team continued a steady but slow pace up to the Hogsback.
The wind picked up and the fog rolled in so that the visibility was down to about 40 feet. People coming down from the summit reported that the winds at the top were high and noted outerwear coated with a layer of frost and ice crystals. We roped up and proceeded up the Hogsback to the cutoff of the Old Chute. The path was well used and pretty solid save for a few spots and the upward traverse was uneventful.

However, after rounding the last buttress and heading straight up the Chute a 6+ inch by 3 inch chunk of ice flew down the steep pitch and hit my helmet with a glancing blow on the right side, breaking the helmet and bruising my right shoulder, knocking me down momentarily. After a quick self assessment, I decided that I was able to continue with the climb.

After gaining the ridge I set four pickets due to the exposure and the 40+ mph winds buffeting us about. Sun breaks were seldom seen and wind was not the stinging cold that is usually experienced on the summit of Mt Hood.

We were able to lay low at the top for a while and catch glimpses of the views for quick moments at a time.

[Note: Summit Shots courtesy of Scott, summit ridge photo courtesy Tim Donovan]

When everyone decided that they were cold enough we returned via the ascent route with able bodied Mike Niemeyer and Robyn Smith leading the two rope teams down to the Hogsback.

From there we descended the normal fashion to the parking lot.
Lunch and liquid refreshments were enjoyed at the Zig Zag Inn as summit certificates and congratulations were distributed to the successful team members.

From Mike's informal post-climb survey "What point of the climb was the biggest concern for you?" I got the following answers:
1) Passing the pickets on the summit ridge
2) Descending the old chute
3) Wondering if we could team arrest on the old chute before someone slid into the steam vent below
4) The flying ice chunks as we were ascending the old chute
5) The wind on the summit ridge

Scott's climb prospectus:

Approximate Schedule
10:00 pm Meet at State Motor Pool
12:00 pm Meet at Rest Area at Government Camp
12:30 pm Meet at Climbers Registry
12:45 am Start Climb
8:00 am Summit
8:15 am Depart from Summit
12:00 pm Return to parking lot. Head back to Salem
2:30 pm Arrive in Salem
Basic Information, Climbing Conditions, Avalanche/Weather Info:

EMERGENCY AND IN-TOWN CONTACTS - For conditions or incase of emergency, you can contact: 911 or Clackamas County Sheriff's Office

REQUIRED EQUIPMENT AND CLOTHING - 10 ESSENTIALS: map and compass (GPS unit if you have one), whistle, headlamp with extra batteries and bulb, sunglasses, sunscreen and lip protection, personal first aid kit, waterproof matches/candle/fire starter, 2-4 liters of water, food (easy to access and eat in cold conditions/with gloves on). CLOTHING FOR COLD, RAIN, WIND, AND INTENSE SUN: waterproof jacket and pants (breathable - e.g. Gortex), wool or synthetic clothing (layers – absolutely no cotton), gloves or mittens (windproof overmits are a good idea), wool or pile cap, sun hat or bandanna, liners and wool or synthetic socks, gaiters (recommended). EMERGENCY/BIVOUAC GEAR: insulated pad, space blanket or bivy sack, extra food. CLIMBING EQUIPMENT: helmet, harness, ice axe, leather or plastic climbing boots, crampons (that you have fitted to your boots and you have practiced putting on), belay device, prussiks (2 or 3), carabiners (locking and extra), ski poles (optional). Scott will supply rope(s) and snow pickets to be divided and carried by the party.

Old Chute Waypoints

1, HOOD01PARK, 10 T 601159 5020467, 5966 ft
2, HOOD02SILC, 10 T 601106 5022029, 6932 ft
3, Hood03Palm, 10 T 601424 5023583, 8540 ft
4, Hood04devk, 10 T 601873 5024807, 10219 ft
5, hood05gogsb, 10 T 601886 5024974, 10495 ft
6, hog2, 10 T 601934 5025034,
7, OC10663, 10 T 601951 5025070, 10663 ft
8, OC4, 10 T 601919 5025176,
8, Old chute 3, 10 T 601937 5025135,
9, OC6, 10 T 601922 5025235,
10, OC7, 10 T 601954 5025280,
11, Rdge1, 10 T 601987 5025289,
12, rdge2, 10 T 602015 5025274,
13, rdge3, 10 T 602064 5025277,
14, hood06sum, 10 T 602117 5025264, 11233 ft

(Portland triangle graphic from portland mt rescue at )