DESCRIPTION - Mount Baker is a spectacular volcano in the North Cascades that offers excellent mountaineering to beginners and experts, alike. Baker tantalizes the residents of Seattle on clear days and stuns ferry passengers in the San Juan Islands. Located only 35 miles inland from sea level at Bellingham the volcano has dramatic relief.Mount Baker also achieves prominence as the 3rd highest summit in the state of Washington and as the iciest mountain in the Cascade Range. An unbelievable annual snowfall (world record of ~30 meters in 1998) sustains more than 100 square kilometers of glaciers and permanent snow fields. Consequently, crevasses are a major danger, dictating that all parties be proficient at glacier travel and rescue Avalanche danger is commonly high because the notoriously variable weather can create unstable snow, even on moderate slopes. Despite these risks, Mount Baker is an excellent first volcano for those learning to climb on snow and ice. When weather and glacial conditions are right, the ascents can be straightforward and relatively non-technical. Ice fills the summit crater, creating a broad, rounded summit that allows beginners to relax and enjoy the views.- from Summitpost.com
DRIVING DIRECTIONS - To the Boulder Cleaver Trailhead: Continue on I-5 to exit 230 and drive WA State Route 20 (the North Cascades Hwy) E to approx MP 82 and turn N onto the Baker Lake Road (FS Road 11) following it for almost 18 miles. After crossing Boulder Creek [bridge] park on the N side of the bridge, walk back and look uphill; you are looking at the Boulder Glacier flowing directly down the center of Mt Baker towards you, the Boulder Cleaver (and Ridge below) are on the right-hand side of the glacier. Return to your car and take the very next left turn W (uphill) onto signed FS Road 1130 and reach the intersection with FS Road 1131 in about 1 mile. Turn left onto FS Road 1131, continuing as far as conditions allow. The TH and Parking Area are at the end of the road. A Forest Service parking pass is required on all vehicles (at the TH). CLIMBING ITINERARY - Saturday, after a stop at the ranger station, we got on the Boulder Ridge trail head #605 (2,740’) and started down the trail about 11:50. After navigating the unmaintained jungle of a trail and hoards of biting flies we moved off of the boulder creek drainage and up a short 4th class ridge to attain the cleaver. (An old line marked the location of the 4th class pitch.) We found a great campsite at 6,100 ft and called it good for the day. Sunday we were up at 2:30 and pushed off at 3:30 am for the summit staying mainly on snow on the north side of the cleaver. At about 8,900 ft we reached a point near the top of the cleaver with a fine bivy ledge where I made the decision to wait wihile the other three headed for the summit (Having left my heart in San Francisco and most of the contents of my stomach all over Mt Baker.) The three brave remaining team members navigated steep and challenging snow and ice fields and giant creavsses to attain the summit and return. Mike M. having punched through into a crevasse they were all happy to be off the technical part of the route. We were back to camp after 13.5 hours. We hiked out monday after an incredible bug free camp and a panoramic view of Mt shuksan and the north cascades. After a splash in the sulfur smelling silty Boulder creek John identified the greasiest burger joint in Sedo-Wooley where we revived ourselves. REFERENCE - Beckey, Fred Cascade Alpine Guide, Book #3 2nd Edition (The Mountaineers – 1995), p 36. Smoot, Jeff, Climbing the Cascade Volcanoes (A Falcon Guide, 1993), pp 45-46. Basic Information, Climbing Conditions, Avalanche Info:
http://www.fs.fed.us/r6/mbs/conditions/mt_baker_climbing_notes.shtml
EMERGENCY AND IN-TOWN CONTACTS - Whatcom County Sheriff: 360-676-6711 or 911
GPS ROUTE (to top of Boulder Cleaver - UNITS=UTM NAD27 CONUS)
WAYPOINT:DIST TO NEXT:LEG LENGTH:HEADING: UTM COORD: ELEV.
1-Trailhead, 0 ft, , , 10 U 594939 5398700,
2-2598ft, 251 ft, 251 ft, 195° true, 10 U 594920 5398626, 2598 ft
3-2625ft, 0.2 mi, 0.1 mi, 260° true, 10 U 594736 5398591, 2625 ft
4-2789ft, 0.4 mi, 0.2 mi, 289° true, 10 U 594434 5398688, 2789 ft
5-2953ft, 0.5 mi, 0.1 mi, 328° true, 10 U 594319 5398867, 2953 ft
6-3117ft, 1.8 mi, 1.3 mi, 304° true, 10 U 592588 5399976,
7-3300ft, 2.0 mi, 0.3 mi, 309° true, 10 U 592264 5400231,
8-3609ft, 2.2 mi, 0.2 mi, 335° true, 10 U 592110 5400543, 3609 ft
9-3937ft, 2.5 mi, 0.2 mi, 332° true, 10 U 591938 5400846, 3937 ft
10-4101ft, 2.6 mi, 0.1 mi, 324° true, 10 U 591833 5400987, 4101 ft
11-4265ft, 2.8 mi, 0.2 mi, 315° true, 10 U 591563 5401248, 4265 ft
12-4429ft, 2.9 mi, 513 ft, 305° true, 10 U 591432 5401335, 4429 ft
13-Rap-4600ft, 3.0 mi, 0.1 mi, 339° true, 10 U 591364 5401505,
14-4680ft, 3.0 mi, 117 ft, 340° true, 10 U 591352 5401538,
15-4800ft, 3.1 mi, 160 ft, 327° true, 10 U 591324 5401578,
16-5000ft, 3.4 mi, 0.3 mi, 304° true, 10 U 590917 5401838,
17-5085ft, 3.4 mi, 292 ft, 295° true, 10 U 590835 5401874, 5085 ft
18-5413ft, 3.7 mi, 0.3 mi, 313° true, 10 U 590476 5402195, 5413 ft
19-5600ft, 3.8 mi, 0.1 mi, 298° true, 10 U 590293 5402288,
20-5800ft, 3.9 mi, 516 ft, 279° true, 10 U 590137 5402309,
21-5980ft, 4.0 mi, 200 ft, 294° true, 10 U 590081 5402333,
22-camp-6000ft, 4.0 mi, 91 ft, 15° true, 10 U 590088 5402360,
23-6562ft, 4.3 mi, 0.3 mi, 291° true, 10 U 589586 5402538, 6562 ft
24-6800ft, 4.5 mi, 0.2 mi, 301° true, 10 U 589320 5402693,
26-7054ft, 4.6 mi, 0.1 mi, 293° true, 10 U 589149 5402764, 7054 ft
27-7500ft, 4.8 mi, 0.2 mi, 282° true, 10 U 588827 5402828,
28-7780ft, 5.0 mi, 0.1 mi, 269° true, 10 U 588637 5402823,
29-7900ft, 5.0 mi, 302 ft, 302° true, 10 U 588558 5402870,
30-8050ft, 5.1 mi, 297 ft, 278° true, 10 U 588468 5402881,
31-8202ft, 5.2 mi, 438 ft, 268° true, 10 U 588335 5402874, 8202 ft
32-8600ft, 5.3 mi, 0.1 mi, 299° true, 10 U 588183 5402956,
33-TCbivy-8795ft, 5.3 mi, 400 ft, 263° true, 10 U 588062 5402938
