Scott Phillips led and I assisted on a climb of the Broken Top 9 O'clock Couloir on May 3-4 as an alternative to the Middle Sister climb I had scheduled for that date. 
(Photo from summit Post and Scott Phillips)
(Photo from summit Post and Scott Phillips)From Scott's prospectus:
PEAK: Broken Top ELEVATION: 9,175 ft
ROUTE: 9 O’Clock Coulier
PEAK: Broken Top ELEVATION: 9,175 ft
ROUTE: 9 O’Clock Coulier
RATING: S-2
DATE: Saturday-Sunday, May 3-4, 2008 LEADER: Scott Phillips
DESCRIPTION
“Broken Top sits adjacent to or is actually part of the Three Sisters complex in central Oregon. It's sharp features make it stand apart from the more traditional shaped Sisters. Broken Top is a very old volcano whose horseshoe shape is the result of an implosion and the after effect of the collapsing summit. There are only two small glaciers left on Broken Top, the Bend Glacier on the north side and the Crook Glacier within the crater.The Northwest ridge route is the easiest and can be done in a day from the Greenlakes trailhead without any difficulty. Depending on specific route selection the hardest climbing involved is fourth to easy fifth class.”
- from Summitpost.com
Day 1, Saturday: 8:00 AM:
The climb will start by hiking (snowshoes or cross country skis) north from the Dutchman Flat Snow Park (6,350 ft) adjacent from Mt Bachelor located along the Cascade Lakes Highway west of Bend. We will follow snow mobile and ski trails for the most part past Todd Lake and directly towards the crater of Broken Top. Most of the elevation gain will be in the last mile and a half of the approach when we gain 1300 ft. Most of the approach is well marked except for some cross country parts where map and compass may be needed for navigation through wooded areas. The last of the approach is mostly open snow fields and is easily navigated by line of site with Broken Top. Camp site will be in the crater on the east side where there is some more levels areas to set up tents (8,100 ft). Total approach distance is 6.5 miles and will take about 7 hours. This will give us plenty of time to set up tents, eat and rehydrate for the full day ahead of us the next day.
Day 2, Sunday: 3:00 AM ???
We will awake and plan to be on the route by 4:00 AM ???. We will start with crampons and be roped up since the route starts just outside of the camp site. The first challenge is the 9 O’Clock Coulier. Be prepared for 50-55 degree slopes in the coulier which will be protected with pickets. A belay will be set up at the top by the leader when he tops out. A short rest will give us time to view the Sisters and review the intended route. We will then drop down about 200 ft on the west side in a northwest direction around some out croppings of rock and ice then turn to the northeast and gain elevation until we are the base of the rock formation at the top of the mountain. We’ll traverse along the base of the formation until we met up with the NW ridge. From there we will climb the normal route that is taken in the summer time when sane people climb it. Descent will be via the climb route. After the climb we will pack up camp and hike out to Dutchman Flat Snow Park. The hike out will take about 4 hours. Summit certificates will be awarded at the trailhead after the climb.
MEETING LOCATION AND DRIVING DIRECTIONS
We will meet at the state motor pool at 4:00 AM Saturday morning and head out from there. We will stop for breakfast along the way, either fast food or sit down, if time allows. I have a van that all the gear will fit into and ask that a $23 donation be slipped to the driver for expenses. Driving duties can be shared. If some one has a better vehicle that will be considered.
REFERENCE/MAPS
· Thomas, Jeff Oregon High – A Climbing Guide, (Keep Climbing Press, 1991), pp 111-117.
· Smoot, Jeff, Climbing the Cascade Volcanoes (A Falcon Guide, 1993), pp 149-153.
· Anderson, Shea, Snowshoe Routes Oregon, (The Mountaineers Books, 2001), pp 126-129.
Weather Info:
http://www.wrh.noaa.gov/forecast/MapClick.php?site=PQR&llon=-122.846247&rlon=-121.661247&tlat=44.434584&blat=43.252084&smap=1&mp=0&map.x=254&map.y=65
DATE: Saturday-Sunday, May 3-4, 2008 LEADER: Scott Phillips
DESCRIPTION
“Broken Top sits adjacent to or is actually part of the Three Sisters complex in central Oregon. It's sharp features make it stand apart from the more traditional shaped Sisters. Broken Top is a very old volcano whose horseshoe shape is the result of an implosion and the after effect of the collapsing summit. There are only two small glaciers left on Broken Top, the Bend Glacier on the north side and the Crook Glacier within the crater.The Northwest ridge route is the easiest and can be done in a day from the Greenlakes trailhead without any difficulty. Depending on specific route selection the hardest climbing involved is fourth to easy fifth class.”
- from Summitpost.com
Day 1, Saturday: 8:00 AM:
The climb will start by hiking (snowshoes or cross country skis) north from the Dutchman Flat Snow Park (6,350 ft) adjacent from Mt Bachelor located along the Cascade Lakes Highway west of Bend. We will follow snow mobile and ski trails for the most part past Todd Lake and directly towards the crater of Broken Top. Most of the elevation gain will be in the last mile and a half of the approach when we gain 1300 ft. Most of the approach is well marked except for some cross country parts where map and compass may be needed for navigation through wooded areas. The last of the approach is mostly open snow fields and is easily navigated by line of site with Broken Top. Camp site will be in the crater on the east side where there is some more levels areas to set up tents (8,100 ft). Total approach distance is 6.5 miles and will take about 7 hours. This will give us plenty of time to set up tents, eat and rehydrate for the full day ahead of us the next day.
Day 2, Sunday: 3:00 AM ???
We will awake and plan to be on the route by 4:00 AM ???. We will start with crampons and be roped up since the route starts just outside of the camp site. The first challenge is the 9 O’Clock Coulier. Be prepared for 50-55 degree slopes in the coulier which will be protected with pickets. A belay will be set up at the top by the leader when he tops out. A short rest will give us time to view the Sisters and review the intended route. We will then drop down about 200 ft on the west side in a northwest direction around some out croppings of rock and ice then turn to the northeast and gain elevation until we are the base of the rock formation at the top of the mountain. We’ll traverse along the base of the formation until we met up with the NW ridge. From there we will climb the normal route that is taken in the summer time when sane people climb it. Descent will be via the climb route. After the climb we will pack up camp and hike out to Dutchman Flat Snow Park. The hike out will take about 4 hours. Summit certificates will be awarded at the trailhead after the climb.
MEETING LOCATION AND DRIVING DIRECTIONS
We will meet at the state motor pool at 4:00 AM Saturday morning and head out from there. We will stop for breakfast along the way, either fast food or sit down, if time allows. I have a van that all the gear will fit into and ask that a $23 donation be slipped to the driver for expenses. Driving duties can be shared. If some one has a better vehicle that will be considered.
REFERENCE/MAPS
· Thomas, Jeff Oregon High – A Climbing Guide, (Keep Climbing Press, 1991), pp 111-117.
· Smoot, Jeff, Climbing the Cascade Volcanoes (A Falcon Guide, 1993), pp 149-153.
· Anderson, Shea, Snowshoe Routes Oregon, (The Mountaineers Books, 2001), pp 126-129.
Weather Info:
http://www.wrh.noaa.gov/forecast/MapClick.php?site=PQR&llon=-122.846247&rlon=-121.661247&tlat=44.434584&blat=43.252084&smap=1&mp=0&map.x=254&map.y=65
EMERGENCY AND IN-TOWN CONTACTS
For conditions or in case of emergency, you can contact:
911 or Deschutes County Sheriff 541-388-6655.
Mike Niemeyer will also be carrying a SPOT satellite rescue beacon, which will be activated in an emergency.
REQUIRED EQUIPMENT AND CLOTHING
For conditions or in case of emergency, you can contact:
911 or Deschutes County Sheriff 541-388-6655.
Mike Niemeyer will also be carrying a SPOT satellite rescue beacon, which will be activated in an emergency.
REQUIRED EQUIPMENT AND CLOTHING
ESSENTIALS: snowshoes, map and compass (GPS unit if you have one), whistle, headlamp with extra batteries and bulb, sunglasses and/or ski goggles, sunscreen and lip protection, personal first aid kit, waterproof matches/candle/fire starter, 2 liters of water, food and extra food for 2 full days, extra clothing, emergency blanket, insulated pad, knife.
CAMPING: tent, pad and sleeping bag suitable for cold weather winter camping, at least two stoves for the group and a fuel canister for each person.
CLOTHING FOR COLD, RAIN, WIND, AND INTENSE SUN: waterproof jacket and pants (breathable - e.g. Gortex), wool or synthetic clothing (layers – absolutely no cotton), gloves or mittens, wool or pile cap, sun hat or bandanna, liners and wool or synthetic socks, gaiters.
CLIMBING EQUIPMENT: helmet, harness, ice axe, mountaineering boots (preferably double plastic), crampons, two shovels for the group, belay device, prussiks (2 or 3), carabiners (2 locking and 2 non locking), trekking poles.
OTHER: bathroom gear, camera, Snow park permit.
GROUP GEAR: 60m rope, 6 pickets, wands, radios, rock pro.
CHEMEKETAN CLIMB REGULATIONS
1. The climber agrees to pay for the climber's own medical and/or rescue expenses, whether or not authorized by the climber in the event of accident or illness.
2. Guests must provide to the trip leader a signed RELEASE FROM LIABILITY AND ASSUMPTION OF RISK, available at the meeting location.
3. The climb leader reserves the right to refuse to allow anyone to participate in the climb if the leader believes that the person is not adequately prepared for the climb.
COMMENTS
The climb is limited to 4 participants including the leader. Please let me know as soon as possible if you cannot come on the climb. Be prepared for cold and hot conditions on the entire trip since the weather can change in a short time. Prior to the climb, if the weather is questionable, Scott will make my decision on whether to go or not on Thursday or Friday night at the latest. If you have any questions, please give Scott Phillips a call or send an e-mail. I am shooting for a 2 day climb window if we push it. Please don’t count out adding an extra day to finish the climb if the scheduling changes.
Satellite waypoints from our trip:
Latitude:44.0788 Longitude:-121.6958 Nearest Location: Elk Lake, United States Distance: 14 km(s) Time:05/03/2008 14:58:16 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.0788,-121.6958&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:44.073 Longitude:-121.6923 Nearest Location: Elk Lake, United States Distance: 14 km(s) Time:05/03/2008 13:30:33 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.073,-121.6923&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:44.0634 Longitude:-121.6862 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:05/03/2008 12:19:45 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.0634,-121.6862&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:44.0507 Longitude:-121.6829 Nearest Location: Elk Lake, United States Distance: 12 km(s) Time:05/03/2008 11:17:50 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.0507,-121.6829&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:44.0388 Longitude:-121.6714 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:05/03/2008 10:38:13 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.0388,-121.6714&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
ESN:0-7352032 Latitude:43.9999 Longitude:-121.6635 Nearest Location: Elk Lake, United States Distance: 12 km(s) Time:05/03/2008 08:16:27 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=43.9999,-121.6635&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
THE TEAM
Leader: 1. Scott Phillips 503-931-0751 climbingscott@comcast.net
2. Kerry Ketcham kerryjay@live.com
CAMPING: tent, pad and sleeping bag suitable for cold weather winter camping, at least two stoves for the group and a fuel canister for each person.
CLOTHING FOR COLD, RAIN, WIND, AND INTENSE SUN: waterproof jacket and pants (breathable - e.g. Gortex), wool or synthetic clothing (layers – absolutely no cotton), gloves or mittens, wool or pile cap, sun hat or bandanna, liners and wool or synthetic socks, gaiters.
CLIMBING EQUIPMENT: helmet, harness, ice axe, mountaineering boots (preferably double plastic), crampons, two shovels for the group, belay device, prussiks (2 or 3), carabiners (2 locking and 2 non locking), trekking poles.
OTHER: bathroom gear, camera, Snow park permit.
GROUP GEAR: 60m rope, 6 pickets, wands, radios, rock pro.
CHEMEKETAN CLIMB REGULATIONS
1. The climber agrees to pay for the climber's own medical and/or rescue expenses, whether or not authorized by the climber in the event of accident or illness.
2. Guests must provide to the trip leader a signed RELEASE FROM LIABILITY AND ASSUMPTION OF RISK, available at the meeting location.
3. The climb leader reserves the right to refuse to allow anyone to participate in the climb if the leader believes that the person is not adequately prepared for the climb.
COMMENTS
The climb is limited to 4 participants including the leader. Please let me know as soon as possible if you cannot come on the climb. Be prepared for cold and hot conditions on the entire trip since the weather can change in a short time. Prior to the climb, if the weather is questionable, Scott will make my decision on whether to go or not on Thursday or Friday night at the latest. If you have any questions, please give Scott Phillips a call or send an e-mail. I am shooting for a 2 day climb window if we push it. Please don’t count out adding an extra day to finish the climb if the scheduling changes.
Satellite waypoints from our trip:
Latitude:44.0788 Longitude:-121.6958 Nearest Location: Elk Lake, United States Distance: 14 km(s) Time:05/03/2008 14:58:16 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.0788,-121.6958&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:44.073 Longitude:-121.6923 Nearest Location: Elk Lake, United States Distance: 14 km(s) Time:05/03/2008 13:30:33 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.073,-121.6923&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:44.0634 Longitude:-121.6862 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:05/03/2008 12:19:45 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.0634,-121.6862&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:44.0507 Longitude:-121.6829 Nearest Location: Elk Lake, United States Distance: 12 km(s) Time:05/03/2008 11:17:50 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.0507,-121.6829&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:44.0388 Longitude:-121.6714 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:05/03/2008 10:38:13 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=44.0388,-121.6714&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
ESN:0-7352032 Latitude:43.9999 Longitude:-121.6635 Nearest Location: Elk Lake, United States Distance: 12 km(s) Time:05/03/2008 08:16:27 (US/Pacific)
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=43.9999,-121.6635&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
THE TEAM
Leader: 1. Scott Phillips 503-931-0751 climbingscott@comcast.net
2. Kerry Ketcham kerryjay@live.com
4. Mike Niemeyer 503-910-9726 mailto:mwniemeyer@verizon.net
