Mt Thielsen, October 4-5, 2008




UPDATE FOR 10/3/08: We've cancelled the climb this weekend due to poor weather.

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On October 4th & 5th 2008 I will be leading a late-season Chemeketen Club Climb of Mt Thielsen (9,182 ft) via the West Ridge route. This is a good climb for new climbers and is rated R1. The climb involves a 3+ mile hike in and an elevation gain of 3,782 feet (The last 200 ft is the technical climbing part.) Known as the “lightening rod of the Cascades” the summit features glassy burnt spots from past lightening strikes. (See Pictures from 2006 climb)

CURRENT WEATHER AT DIAMOND LAKE:

CURRENT WEBCAM

CLIMB TEAM ROSTER: (This climb is now full)
1. Mike Niemeyer - Leader
2. Keith Hill - Leader Assist
3. Linda Bedard - Climb Assistant
4. Tina Reave
5. Lisa Conrad
6. Bryon Snapp
7. Dan Domrose
8. Kirk Kraschel
9. Greg Philips
10.David Braun
11. Roger Monette
12. Mike Rudy

ITINERARY & ROUTE

Tuesday, September 30th – Short, pre-climb meeting at the Brick in Salem 6:30pm. We will review gear and talk about the plan for carpooling & camping.

Saturday, October 4, 2008 – Those carpooling will meet at the Salem State Motor Pool on Airport road at 1 PM. We will drive from Salem to Diamond Lake and camp at the Diamond Lake Campground (See below about camping details.)

Sunday, October 5th - Meet at the Mt. Thielsen trailhead no later than 7:00 am. (The trailhead is directly east of the diamond lake campground and 1.5 miles north of the Highway 230/Highway 138 road junction near Diamond Lake. The trailhead parking lot is located along the east side of Highway 138. Northwest Forest Pass is required to park at this trailhead. ) We will start the climb at 7:30am. We will climb the west ridge via Mt Thielsen Trail #1456 three miles to the Pacific Crest Trail and continue east up the climbers trail along the west ridge to an obvious saddle with some belay bolts. We’ll put up a fixed line on the summit pinnacle to ascend and descend the easy fourth/fifth class rock on the summit block. Return via the climbing route to the trailhead by early afternoon.


WAYPOINT, DISTANCE TO NEXT, LEG LENGTH, COURSE, UTM NAD27, ELEVATION
TH-1, 0 ft, , , 10 T 571039 4777230, 5307 ft
TH-2, 0.2 mi, 0.2 mi, 117° true, 10 T 571295 4777104, 5450 ft
TH-3, 0.4 mi, 0.2 mi, 76° true, 10 T 571683 4777201, 5632 ft
TH-4, 1.2 mi, 0.8 mi, 41° true, 10 T 572484 4778127, 6042 ft
TH-5, 1.8 mi, 0.6 mi, 90° true, 10 T 573454 4778130, 6624 ft
TH-6, 2.3 mi, 0.6 mi, 66° true, 10 T 574258 4778505, 7062 ft
TH-7, 2.6 mi, 0.3 mi, 125° true, 10 T 574593 4778276, 7188 ft
TH-8, 2.9 mi, 0.3 mi, 128° true, 10 T 574954 4777998, 7399 ft
TH-9, 3.2 mi, 0.4 mi, 106° true, 10 T 575533 4777837, 8096 ft
TH-10, 3.5 mi, 0.3 mi, 86° true, 10 T 576007 4777872, 8858 ft
TH-11, 3.6 mi, 521 ft, 359° true, 10 T 576002 4778031, 9022 ft

Other route descriptions and maps can be found at:

GETTING THERE:
Campground Directions & Reservations: (Mapquest directions to resort) Drive south in I-5 to Roseburg then drive east on Hwy 138, approx. 80 miles, turn right onto Road 4795 (Diamond Lake Loop) at the north entrance to Diamond Lake Recreation Area. The Diamond Lake Campground is located on Forest road 4795, on east shore of Diamond Lake. 141 of the 238 camp units at Diamond Lake Campground (loops A-G plus M) may be reserved through the National Reservation System. Telephone: 1-877-444-6777 or online at http://www.fs.fed.us/r6/umpqua/recreation/camping/cg3diaml.shtml Sites not reserved are available on first come-first serve basis.

EMERGENCY AND IN-TOWN CONTACTS

911 - The leader will be carrying a SPOT Satellite beacon and cell phone (503-910-9726). Umpqua National Forest headquarters 2900 Stewart ParkwayRoseburg, OR 97471
(541) 672-6601

REQUIRED EQUIPMENT AND CLOTHING

  • 10 ESSENTIALS: map and compass (GPS unit if you have one), whistle, headlamp with extra batteries and bulb, sunglasses, sunscreen and lip protection, personal first aid kit, waterproof matches/candle/fire starter, 2-3 liters of water, food .
  • CLOTHING FOR COLD, SNOW, RAIN, WIND, AND INTENSE SUN: waterproof jacket and pants, wool or synthetic clothing, sun hat or bandanna, liners and wool or synthetic socks, gaiters. Waterproof shell pants, two pair gloves, down or synthetic belay jacket (warm), wool cap.
  • CLIMBING EQUIPMENT: helmet, harness, belay device, prussiks (2 or 3), carabiners (locking and extra), treking poles, ice axe and crampons (fitted to your boots ahead of time.)
  • Leader will provide rope(s) and rock protection to be divided and carried by the party.

Release from Liability (You will be asked to sign this before the climb.)