July 23-25th we had a successful summit of Mt Rainier via the Kautz Glacier. (See below for pre-trip prospectus). Thanks Derek for the photos, great leadership from Wim & Terry and a team that was always ready to help out.
Roster
Wim Aarts (Leader)
Terry Donahe (Assistant leader)
Jim Pennington
Katie Mills
Derek Castonguay
Tara Gedman
Mike Niemeyer
Wim Aarts (Leader)
Terry Donahe (Assistant leader)
Jim Pennington
Katie Mills
Derek Castonguay
Tara Gedman
Mike Niemeyer
This was a challenging climb that including highlights like:
Boulders rolling at us as we ascend a gravel covered ice slope (below)
Once past the sketcy ice section of the approach we enjoyed a break on the wilson glacier (Below)
Summit day...
Climbing ice multiple pitches at 3am, after sunrise and again that afternoon as we descended, rappellling off of the ice features known as penitentes.
The mountain makes us pay for the last 500ft. As you can see from the pictures below, gusty headwinds near the summit were strong enough (50mph?) to knock us down. Terry was leading Tara and me on a rope team. He described the headwind as like trying to pull a 500lb sled uphill.
Dropping into a cravasse....As Terry is about 20 ft from the summit (on the small, non-threatening bulge on the crater rim - picture below) he suddenly drops into a cravasse, his armpits temporarily keeping him from dropping further. He reacts quickly and gets himself out, yelling at us over the wind "you don't want to go that way!"
My (and Wim's) tent blowing away. Upon returning from a very long summit day, and with only energy to eat and crawl into a sleeping bag, Wim tells me our tent has blown away. Idon't believe him until I catch up and see a ground cloth where our tent (with all our clothes and sleeping bags, etc) once was. Ugh. We had very high winds knocking us down on the summit and apparently our camp got some of it as well. Tara spots our tent a few hundred feet below in some rocks, one more gust away from ending up dropping into oblivion. The team rallies (including a wounded Katie) and goes down and helps bring the gear back up to camp - I'm unhappy about the extra exercise but thrilled that Wim and I still have something to sleep in. Below you can see the exposed location of our tent (Yellow Bibler) the night before it was carried off.
Carbs & Flowers - a happy ending!
SPOT Waypoints: (When clicking links below use the "terrain view' in google maps for the best detail.)
1. Return to Paradise Parking lot from high camp. Latitude:46.7853 Longitude:-121.7343 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/25/2009 13:28:19 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.7853,-121.7343&ll=46.7853,-121.7343&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:46.7915 Longitude:-121.7379 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/25/2009 13:19:28 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.7915,-121.7379&ll=46.7915,-121.7379&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:46.8014 Longitude:-121.7357 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/25/2009 12:54:42 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8014,-121.7357&ll=46.8014,-121.7357&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:46.8151 Longitude:-121.7424 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/25/2009 12:06:42 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8151,-121.7424&ll=46.8151,-121.7424&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:46.8162 Longitude:-121.7488 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/25/2009 11:11:27 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8162,-121.7488&ll=46.8162,-121.7488&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:46.8258 Longitude:-121.7573 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/25/2009 10:00:53 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8258,-121.7573&ll=46.8258,-121.7573&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:46.8321 Longitude:-121.7618 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/25/2009 08:44:16 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8321,-121.7618&ll=46.8321,-121.7618&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:46.8326 Longitude:-121.7626 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/25/2009 08:17:15 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8326,-121.7626&ll=46.8326,-121.7626&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Return to camp from Summit (about 11,000 ft) Latitude:46.8345 Longitude:-121.7628 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/24/2009 19:43:13 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8345,-121.7628&ll=46.8345,-121.7628&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:46.8369 Longitude:-121.7633 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/24/2009 17:34:49 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8369,-121.7633&ll=46.8369,-121.7633&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:46.8378 Longitude:-121.7631 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/24/2009 16:52:57 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8378,-121.7631&ll=46.8378,-121.7631&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:46.8377 Longitude:-121.7629 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/24/2009 16:22:57 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8377,-121.7629&ll=46.8377,-121.7629&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:46.8382 Longitude:-121.7619 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/24/2009 14:15:12 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8382,-121.7619&ll=46.8382,-121.7619&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:46.845 Longitude:-121.7579 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/24/2009 12:17:52 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.845,-121.7579&ll=46.845,-121.7579&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:46.8503 Longitude:-121.7598 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/24/2009 11:40:14 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8503,-121.7598&ll=46.8503,-121.7598&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
16. Summit. Latitude:46.853 Longitude:-121.7605 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/24/2009 11:18:24 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.853,-121.7605&ll=46.853,-121.7605&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:46.8476 Longitude:-121.7609 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/24/2009 09:59:20 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8476,-121.7609&ll=46.8476,-121.7609&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:46.8408 Longitude:-121.7604 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/24/2009 07:11:27 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8408,-121.7604&ll=46.8408,-121.7604&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:46.8369 Longitude:-121.7638 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/24/2009 04:10:30 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8369,-121.7638&ll=46.8369,-121.7638&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
At base of 1st ice pitch preparing to ascend. Latitude:46.8361 Longitude:-121.7639 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/24/2009 02:58:39 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8361,-121.7639&ll=46.8361,-121.7639&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Alpine start (preparing to ascend to summit) Latitude:46.8345 Longitude:-121.763 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/24/2009 01:30:51 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8345,-121.763&ll=46.8345,-121.763&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Arrive at Camp from Paradise (Bivy Site just below rap station South of Camp Hazard at about 11,100ft) Latitude:46.8344 Longitude:-121.7631 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/23/2009 17:30:54 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8344,-121.7631&ll=46.8344,-121.7631&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:46.8259 Longitude:-121.7579 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/23/2009 14:49:13 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8259,-121.7579&ll=46.8259,-121.7579&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:46.8218 Longitude:-121.7547 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/23/2009 13:28:09 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8218,-121.7547&ll=46.8218,-121.7547&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Lunch Break on Wilson glacier above sketchy ice traverse (ascending to camp). Latitude:46.8173 Longitude:-121.7485 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/23/2009 12:14:55 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8173,-121.7485&ll=46.8173,-121.7485&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Transition from nisqualy to Wilson Glaciers. Latitude:46.8169 Longitude:-121.7468 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known
Time:07/23/2009 11:58:45 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8169,-121.7468&ll=46.8169,-121.7468&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Glacier Vista (ascending) Latitude:46.8075 Longitude:-121.7356 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known
Time:07/23/2009 10:13:26 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8075,-121.7356&ll=46.8075,-121.7356&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
28. Leave Paradise Parking Lot for high Camp. Latitude:46.7862 Longitude:-121.736 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/23/2009 07:41:27 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.7862,-121.736&ll=46.7862,-121.736&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
******PRE-TRIP PROSPECTUS*******
1. Return to Paradise Parking lot from high camp. Latitude:46.7853 Longitude:-121.7343 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/25/2009 13:28:19 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.7853,-121.7343&ll=46.7853,-121.7343&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:46.7915 Longitude:-121.7379 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/25/2009 13:19:28 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.7915,-121.7379&ll=46.7915,-121.7379&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:46.8014 Longitude:-121.7357 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/25/2009 12:54:42 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8014,-121.7357&ll=46.8014,-121.7357&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:46.8151 Longitude:-121.7424 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/25/2009 12:06:42 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8151,-121.7424&ll=46.8151,-121.7424&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:46.8162 Longitude:-121.7488 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/25/2009 11:11:27 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8162,-121.7488&ll=46.8162,-121.7488&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:46.8258 Longitude:-121.7573 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/25/2009 10:00:53 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8258,-121.7573&ll=46.8258,-121.7573&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:46.8321 Longitude:-121.7618 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/25/2009 08:44:16 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8321,-121.7618&ll=46.8321,-121.7618&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:46.8326 Longitude:-121.7626 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/25/2009 08:17:15 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8326,-121.7626&ll=46.8326,-121.7626&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Return to camp from Summit (about 11,000 ft) Latitude:46.8345 Longitude:-121.7628 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/24/2009 19:43:13 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8345,-121.7628&ll=46.8345,-121.7628&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:46.8369 Longitude:-121.7633 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/24/2009 17:34:49 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8369,-121.7633&ll=46.8369,-121.7633&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:46.8378 Longitude:-121.7631 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/24/2009 16:52:57 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8378,-121.7631&ll=46.8378,-121.7631&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:46.8377 Longitude:-121.7629 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/24/2009 16:22:57 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8377,-121.7629&ll=46.8377,-121.7629&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:46.8382 Longitude:-121.7619 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/24/2009 14:15:12 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8382,-121.7619&ll=46.8382,-121.7619&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:46.845 Longitude:-121.7579 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/24/2009 12:17:52 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.845,-121.7579&ll=46.845,-121.7579&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:46.8503 Longitude:-121.7598 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/24/2009 11:40:14 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8503,-121.7598&ll=46.8503,-121.7598&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
16. Summit. Latitude:46.853 Longitude:-121.7605 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/24/2009 11:18:24 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.853,-121.7605&ll=46.853,-121.7605&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:46.8476 Longitude:-121.7609 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/24/2009 09:59:20 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8476,-121.7609&ll=46.8476,-121.7609&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:46.8408 Longitude:-121.7604 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/24/2009 07:11:27 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8408,-121.7604&ll=46.8408,-121.7604&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:46.8369 Longitude:-121.7638 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/24/2009 04:10:30 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8369,-121.7638&ll=46.8369,-121.7638&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
At base of 1st ice pitch preparing to ascend. Latitude:46.8361 Longitude:-121.7639 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/24/2009 02:58:39 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8361,-121.7639&ll=46.8361,-121.7639&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Alpine start (preparing to ascend to summit) Latitude:46.8345 Longitude:-121.763 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/24/2009 01:30:51 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8345,-121.763&ll=46.8345,-121.763&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Arrive at Camp from Paradise (Bivy Site just below rap station South of Camp Hazard at about 11,100ft) Latitude:46.8344 Longitude:-121.7631 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/23/2009 17:30:54 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8344,-121.7631&ll=46.8344,-121.7631&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:46.8259 Longitude:-121.7579 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/23/2009 14:49:13 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8259,-121.7579&ll=46.8259,-121.7579&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Latitude:46.8218 Longitude:-121.7547 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/23/2009 13:28:09 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8218,-121.7547&ll=46.8218,-121.7547&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Lunch Break on Wilson glacier above sketchy ice traverse (ascending to camp). Latitude:46.8173 Longitude:-121.7485 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/23/2009 12:14:55 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8173,-121.7485&ll=46.8173,-121.7485&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Transition from nisqualy to Wilson Glaciers. Latitude:46.8169 Longitude:-121.7468 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known
Time:07/23/2009 11:58:45 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8169,-121.7468&ll=46.8169,-121.7468&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Glacier Vista (ascending) Latitude:46.8075 Longitude:-121.7356 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known
Time:07/23/2009 10:13:26 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.8075,-121.7356&ll=46.8075,-121.7356&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
28. Leave Paradise Parking Lot for high Camp. Latitude:46.7862 Longitude:-121.736 Nearest Location:not known Distance:not known Time:07/23/2009 07:41:27 (US/Pacific) http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=46.7862,-121.736&ll=46.7862,-121.736&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
******PRE-TRIP PROSPECTUS*******
From the leaders prospectus:
"I would like to drive up on Thursday July 23rd leaving Portland at 4:30am. We will start our climb from the upper parking lot near the ranger station after picking up the climbing permit which are available at 8am. We will hike up the Skyline Trail to Glacier Vista, approximately one mile. At that point the trail descends west (left) to the moraine and lower Nisqually Glacier at 6,200 feet. We will cross the Nisqually glacier northwest towards the Wilson glacier, access the upper Wilson Glacier and Wapowety Cleaver. We will ascend below and away from the Wilson ice fall then traverse and climb north, staying to the right of any rock outcroppings until the crest of the ridge is reached near 7,600 feet. We then climb north, toward the mountain, on the western edge of the Wilson Glacier. Depending upon how the climb is progressing we may choose to find a bivy site in this area, just below the snowfield called the Turtle, or just below camp Hazard at just below 11000”. From the bivy site we will climb up toward the Kautz Ice cliff and Camp Hazard. Camp Hazard at 11,300 feet is the highest established climbing camp on Mt. Rainier. There are, however, no facilities there and for the more-important reason of the objective danger, we will avoid camping at Camp Hazard. The site lies directly below the Kautz Ice cliff, and large blocks of ice have been known to randomly crash through camp. Travel time to this camp from Paradise: 6-10 hours. Depending how the team is doing climbing and at elevation, we will climb Thursday evening Friday morning or have a layover day on Friday. Wherever we choose to camp, be sure your tent is well tied down - many tents are lost on Rainier. Share tie down points (ski poles, stuff bags filled with snow, etc.) with your neighbors, and bring parachute cord to secure the tent. Save weight and leave the summer tent stakes at home. From our high camp near Camp Hazard, we will ascend to the ice cliff and traverse west into an ice and rock run-out chute. [rappel station notes] We will descend 300 feet in this chute to a ramp that allows easy access to the steep, rolling Kautz Glacier. We will not waste any time below the ice cliff or in the chute: this area is noted for frequent icefall releases. Once on the Kautz Glacier we will ascend two pitches of glacier ice or snow (45-55 degrees) to the upper glacier. Above the second pitch we will continue on gentle slopes toward the crest of upper Wapowety Cleaver at 13,300 feet. From the crest of the upper Wapowety Cleaver we will climb the upper Kautz/Nisqually Glacier north to the summit crater rim. From the top, we’ll return to our high camp via the climbing route. If we climb on Thursday night Friday morning, we will descend the next day, return to Paradise, have lunch and drive home. In case we have a layover day we will need to descend and drive home the same day as the climb. The total elevation gain on the climb is approx 9,000 vertical feet."
Emergency Phone numbers:
If the party is late in returning from the mountain, concerned friends or relatives should first contact Anna Maria Hundseder-Aarts or Florian Aarts.
You can also call the Mazamas Clubrooms, at 503-227-2345.
Mike Niemeyer will be carrying a SPOT device, sending "OK" messages to this blog as we go and can send a 911 signal out in an emergency.
Mazamas emergency pager activation: 503-227-2345, ext 3
Mt Rainer NP, Park HQ: 360-569-2211 ext 2334
Mt Rainer NP (after hours) Lewis County S&R: 360-740-1105
Links:
Rainier NP's web site: www.nps.gov/mora/ (with lots of climbing related info),
NOAA's Rainier weather report
Rainier route conditions: http://www.nps.gov/mora/climb/climb_cd.htm USGS Volcanoes, Rainier: http://vulcan.wr.usgs.gov/Volcanoes/Rainier/
