Mt Adams Mazama Glacier via Bird Creek Meadow August 12-14, 2011

THIS TRIP HAS BEEN CANCELLED AND REPLACED WITH A MIDDLE SISTER CLIMB TO ACCOMODATE MORE FIRST YEAR CLIMBERS
On August 12-14, 2011 I'll be leading a Chemeketan Club climb of Mt Adams via the Mazama Glacier. If the Road is open we will approach via the beautiful Bird Creek Meadow on the Yakima Indian reservation. This climb is rated S2. For pictures of the approach see my 2009 backpack in this area and for climbing route information see my 2008 climb (which featured a major forest fire.)


Driving:  The plan is to carpool from the salem state motorpool to the ranger station in trout creek. Driving directions: From Salem, drive north on I-5 to I-84 East to Hood River. Cross the Columbia River, turn left on Hwy 14 for 1.5 miles, then right on Alt. 141 which merges with 141 in a few miles. Stay north on 141 until reaching Trout Lake, about 23 miles from the Columbia River. When you arrive at Trout Lake, stay left at the Chevron Station. Go one mile to the USFS Ranger Station. We will meet at the Ranger Station, register (Note climb permits are $15.00 each for S side routes - our route is exempt from that).  We will leave cars there and pile into the back of my truck for the ride up a bad dirt road to the trailhead at Bird Creek Meadows where we will buy a tribal permit and park.

Check here to make sure Road 82 is open. 

Directions to the Trailhead (edited from From Eyehike) -To reach the trailhead, go straight at the intersection of Highway 141 and Mt. Adams Rec Hwy, Road 82. At 1.1 miles, stay right at the road junction. You’ll see a sign for Bird Creek Meadows. At 1.4 miles, stay right again at another road junction. At 4.4 miles, you enter the Gifford Pinchot National Forest. Follow the signs to Bird Creek Meadows. The pavement ends 4.5 miles from the junction of Hwy 141 and Mt. Adams Rec Hwy.Continue on the main road, following the signs to Bird Creek Meadows and Road 82. Six miles after the pavement ends, turn onto Forest road 8290. About .6 miles farther, you go straight at a junction with a logging road. The road becomes dusty, narrow, and rough. At 13.2 miles, you cross over Bird Creek. After four slow miles farther, you come to Mirror Lake. Follow the road another mile to the parking lot at the junction of Trails 20 and 105. A self-pay permit box is at the trailhead. $5 day use $20 camping fee. Drive time is almost 75 minutes from White Salmon. trailhead GPS 10 T 621585 5112386 (NAD83)


Route: (Summit 12,276 ft)  This climb is rated S2. The Mazama Glacier Route is the second most popular route on Mt. Adams. It is suitable for intermediate climbers and requires roped travel with ice axes and crampons. Hike and climb is about 15 miles round trip with ~6,800' elevation gain. It is a physically demanding climb. We will hike from Bird creek meadows to sunrise camp (8,300 FT - great views with a resident goat population)

SCHEDULE:
Day #1 – Friday, Driving and Approach hike to Sunrise Camp
6:30 am Meet at Salem State Motor Pool on Airport road between Mission and State streets
7:30 am P/U Jon in Portland
9:30 am Meet at Trout Lake Ranger Station, load truck for shuttle to Bird Creek TH
10:30 am arrive Bird Creek TH
11:00 begin hike at GPS 621585 5112386 (5680 ft elevation)
3:00 pmor so arrive at Sunrise camp GPS 618628 5115289 (8300ft) about 3.5 miles and 2,620 ft gain

Day #2 – Saturday – glacier ascent, summit, and descent
3:30 am Wake up and pack
4 am Rope up and depart camp (8300 ft) via Mazama Glacier
10:00 am Reach False Summit (Piker’s Peak – 11657’)
11:30 am or so Summit (12276’)
12:00 pm begin descent to Sunrise Camp
3:00 pm arrive back at sunrise camp (this day is about 4.5 miles and 3,976 ft gain & loss)

Day #3 - Sunday
7:30 am break camp
10:30 am Return to cars
11:30 am Return to trout Creek RS
12:00 Food in Trout Creek (optional) and drive home
3 pm back in Salem

CLIMBING SKILLS REQUIRED: Roped glacier climbing, crevasse rescue, glissade. Participants are encouraged to review crevasse rescue, self arrest, and sitting glissade techniques prior to the climb. Anyone going on the climb must be in very good condition! Climbers not able to keep pace with the group may be turned back at the leader’s discretion.

EQUIPMENT:
See overnight snow climb personal equipment list #3. Shared camping equipment: Stove, fuel, cooking pan, water filter (iodine also OK or you may choose to just drink out of the creek), tent (unless you are using a bivy sack.) Group Gear: To be distributed by the leader at the trailhead and may be redistributed periodically during the climb: Rope, 5 pickets and a couple ice screws.

General information:
Web: Mt Adams Climbing General info;  Climbing conditions
Maps: USGS 7 ½ minute series, Mt. Adams East, USDA Forest Service Mt. Adams Wilderness map, Green Trails Mt. Adams #367S. Books:"Cascade Alpine Guide", Fred Becky; "Selected Climbs in the Cascades", Jim Nelson and Peter Potterfield (The Mountaineers, 1993); Climbers Guide to the Cascade Volcanoes, Jeff Smoot.  Avalanche Advisory----OREGON: (503) 808-2400; WASHINGTON: (206) 526-6677

Local Weather

Camping conditions: There are 6-7 well fortified tent sites at Sunrise Camp (8,300') with enough flat area for many more. Running water is available via glacial melt at Sunrise Camp. Water purification (filter or iodine) is recommended. High wind is possible so plan your tent selection accordingly.


Extraterrestrials: Mt Adams is a well known alien aggregation area and the site of the ECETI Ranch, "located in the middle of an energetic vortex near Mt. Adams in Washington State, and is internationally known as a UFO and paranormal hotspot. Join us each night as we Sky Watch, and witness for yourself a UFO power-up!"  What should climbers do if they encounter beings from other worlds during the climb?  Is this an additional objective hazard?  Does this increase the rating of the climb?  What if I'm beamed into a hovering spacecraft and then dropped back onto the summit, will I still be able to get a summit certificate? Your leader will answer these and other questions you may have at the trailhead.

Cancellation: The Leader will monitor weather forecasts, and the decision to cancel will be made in town on Wednesday no later than 9:00pm. Check this blog for updates. If you do not hear from the Leader by this time, assume the climb is still on and meet at the location listed above. Be sure the Leader has your correct email address and check this blog if the weather is questionable.

Emergencies: If the party is late in returning from the mountain, concerned friends or relatives should contact Jackie Niemeyer at 503-930-8782 or the Mt. Adams Ranger District, Trout Lake Ranger Station at 509-395-3400. If the party is in trouble leader will activate SPOT satellite beacon. Leader is also carrying GPS and cell phone. Mt. Adams Ranger District: (509) 395-3400; Yakima County Sheriff: (800)572-0490 (Search and Rescue); Trout Lake EMTs and First Responders: 911