Middle Sister via Hayden Glacier, July 23-24, 2011

On July 23-24th a team led by Mike Rudy (I was the leader assist) successfully summitted Middle Sister via the Hayden Glacier. This climb was rated S1 (Open to first year climbers).

For trip reports of past climbs of this route see:
Middle Sister 2010
Middle Sister 2008
Middle Sister 2007

From Mike Rudy's Pre-Climb prospectus:

Middle Sister - Elevation 10,047ft/3062m
Date:  July 23rd and24th 2011 Sat. & Sun.

Leader: Michael Rudy, H: 503-375-0945, C: 503-428-1133 michaelrnclimber@yahoo.com

Leader assist: Mike Niemeyer, mwniemeyer@frontier.com
Route/Rating/Elevation gain
Route: North ridge via the Hayden glacier from the Pole creek trail head.
Rated: S1, Grade IV (V for this trip)
Elevation gain from trail head: 4560ft/1390m
Climbing Roster
1.    Michael Rudy, michaelrnclimber@yahoo.com
2.    Mike Niemeyer, mwniemeyer@frontier.com
3.    Jack Myrtue, jackmyrtue@hotmail.com
4.    Josiah Faville, josiah.faville@gmail.com
5.    Max Ritchie,  oregonocean@gmail.com
6.    Jason Kabbes, jkabbes@gmail.com
7. Ryan Collier' <Ryan@collier-law.com>
Overview
Middle Sister is the middle and shortest of a series of 3 volcanic peaks rising just over 10,000 ft. in the Cascades of Central Oregon west of Bend. The easiest route is the North Ridge Route which is accessed via Hayden Glacier on the east side. This route is an easy glacier climb to a saddle between North and Middle Sister. The North ridge is then a walk up a snow, cinder and small rock hopping ridge.
Getting There
Carpooling is recommended - Drive from Salem to Sisters.  Just before you get into Sisters, turn Right onto Hwy. 242.  To get to the Pole Creek trailhead (for the east side approach): travel 1.5 miles west of Sisters, OR on Hwy 242, turn South, Left, on Forest Service road 15 which is paved at first, but the pavement soon yields to trademark Central Oregon washboard gravel. Follow the road for 7.1 miles, where you'll reach a "Y" intersection. Stay left at the junction (following the signs to Pole Creek), and follow the road to its end just past milepost 10 at the parking area for the Pole Creek Trailhead.  I plan to spend the night at the trail head Fri. night.  There is plenty of space and no cost for this.  There is no running water and only pit toilets.  I do have cell service in that area if you need to contact me.  You will need a Northwest Forest Pass to park at the trail head.
Itinerary
Saturday July 23rd:  Meet at the Pole Creek trail head at 7:00am.  We will do final checks and distribute group gear.  Start out from trail head no later than 7:30am.  We will travel South at a moderate pace along the Pole creek/Green Lakes trail to the soap creek crossing, approx. 2miles.  Here we will take a short break, snack and replenish water.  This may be the last spot for running water.  The rest of the way you will probably have to melt snow for your water.  PLAN ACCORDINGLY.  Then we will travel approx. another two miles to the climbers trail cutoff.  Here we turn West, Right, and travel 1.5-2 miles out of the trees to camp.  We will be probably be camping on snow at approx. 7000-7500ft.   Again there may not be any running streams at this point so be ready to melt snow for your water needs.
Sunday July 24th:  Early AM wake up to be determined Sat. eve, probably 4:00am start time out of camp.  In the morning eat, gather gear, and get ready for summit attempt.  Pack, ice axe, crampons and harness, as well as plenty of water, at least 2 liters, food and layers of clothing for possible windy conditions at the summit.  I suggest having most of this done the night before.  We will spend some time at the summit as conditions and time schedule allows, then descend the way we came up back to camp.  Absolute turnaround time is 11:00am no matter where we are on the mountain on Sun.  Back at camp we will rest up a bit, re-hydrate, eat, pack up and then hike out to the trail head.  At the trail head I will hand out Summit Certificates and then we can drive into Sisters to have dinner.
Equipment
  The Ten Essentials (refer to hand book)
Water & Food
q  wide mouth bottles, liter size, 2
q  food for two days along with easily accessible trail snacking food.
q  extra food
q  hydration system OK(optional)
q  Cooking system of choice with larger pot to melt snow in.
q Water filter/tablets(optional)
Clothing
q  boots, heavy leather or plastic must be crampon compatible
q  gaiters
q  waterproof gloves or mittens, warm
q  fleece gloves
q  hat, sun, covers neck & ears
q  hat, warm, balaclava
q  ski goggles(optional)
q  jacket, waterproof breathable shell
q  jacket, warm synthetic
q  long underwear (e.g. polypro)
q  long sleeve undershirt (e.g. polypro)
q  pants, zip off legs are great
q  pants, waterproof breathable
q  socks, liner & spares
q  socks, thick wool & spares
NO COTTON CLOTHING
Climbing
q  pack
q  helmet
q  ice axe
q  harness
q  carabiners, oval (2 or more)
q  carabiners, locking (2 or more)
q  prusik slings
q  crampons
q  ski/trekking poles, (optional)
q  sit pad, ensolite (optional)
q  snow shovel  (optional)
Handy Bags
q  camera (optional)
q  chap stick
q  duct tape
q  first aid kit
q  handkerchief
q  head lamp/extra battery & bulb
q  pocket knife
q  sunglasses/sunscreen
q  tissue paper
q  matches, waterproof
q  fire starter (or candle)
q  utility cord
q  whistle (around neck)
q  spare gloves/mittens
q  watch
q  altimeter (optional)
  personal medications (for 3 days)
q  compass
q  map
q  cell phone
Sleeping
q  Tent or bivi (preferably 4season)
q  Sleeping bag rated to at least 20 degrees
q  Sleeping pad (rated to sleep on snow)
Group Gear
q  Two 50m ropes
q  Pickets
q  Radios
References
Oregon High: A Climbing Guide, by Jeff Thomas, Book
USGS Maps: North Sister, Trout Creek quadrangles.
Green Trails Maps: Broken Top, OR. # 622, Three Sisters, OR. # 621
Three Sisters Wilderness Map, by Geo-Graphics
Deschutes & Ochoco National Forests: www.fs.fed.us/r6/centraloregon/


Emergency Contacts


911
Deschutes Cnty Sheriff 541-388-6655
Sisters Ranger Station 541-549-7700


CHEMEKETAN CLIMB REGULATIONS


1. Participant agrees to pay for the climber's own medical and/or rescue expenses,      whether or not authorized by the Participant in the event of accident or illness.
2. Guests must sign a RELEASE FROM LIABILITY AND ASSUMPTION OF RISK available at the trailhead.
3. The Leader reserves the right to refuse to allow anyone to participate in the climb if the Leader believes that the person is not adequately prepared or suited for the activity.