Update: The Pole Creek trailhead road is snow-covered and closed at the 4,400 ft level as of (April 23rd) adding an additional 5 miles and 800 ft gain each way. (This makes it a three-day trip.) Since this is available later in the year as a two-day trek I Idecided to cancel this trip and go with the Broken Top 9 O'Clock Couloir that Scott had scheduled earlier in the year.
Middle Sister via the Hayden Glacier the weekend of May 3rd, 2008- CANCELLED. This will be a 13.6 miles rt with about 5100 feet gain (Summit Elevation: 10,047’.) The climb will involve a snow approach and glacier climb to 40 degrees. While the flowers might be blooming in the valley the mountains still thing it's winter this time of year - so plan accordingly. This climb is suitable of first-year (new) climbers who have completed the Chemeketen climb school or equivalent. A pre-climb meeting is scheduled for Tuesday evening April 29th, 6 PM at the Chemekeden to clarify gear, tent & food groups and carpooling arrangements.
Roster
1. Mike Niemeyer (leader)
2. Scott Phillips (Leader Assist)
3. Gary Greenwood
4. Daniel Domrose
5.
Driving directions: For those interested in carpooling we will meet at the State Motorpool lot on Saturday Morning. Drive east on highway 22 to Sisters. from Sisters, 1.5 miles west on Hwy. 242, then 5.6 miles south on F.S. Rd. 15, then 5.3 miles south on F.S. Rd. 1524.
Route: We will fill out a wilderness permit and depart from Pole Creek Trailhead (5200’). Following the Pole Creek Trail, hike 1.4 miles to the Green Lakes Trail (5840’). Turn South for 1.6 miles to the Chambers Lake trail (5740’), and turn Southwest on the Chambers Lake Trail for approximately 1.8 miles (6280’). Ascend cross country to an area at the toe of the Hayden Glacier where we will camp. With a 5:00 am wake up call we can have breakfast and prepare for our 6:00 am departure. We will then follow the Moraine west to the saddle just below the North ridge, then continuing up the ridge, arriving at the Summit around 10:30 am (10047’). After a half hour photo shoot, we will retraced our steps back to camp where we will relax and casually break camp for a 2:00 pm departure. We expect to arrive back at our cars around 4:30 pm and meet in Sisters for dinner and to hand out Climb certificates before we head home.
Schedule:
Saturday
7:00 AM -Meet at the State Motor Pool Park & Ride on Airport Rd. (N. of Mission St.)
10:30 AM -Depart Pole Creek Spring Trail Head (5300’/0.0 miles)
11:10 AM -Green Lakes Trail junction (Tr 4070) (5900’/1.4 miles).
11:30 AM -Soap Creek ... Chambers Lakes Trail Jct.(Tr 4074) (5760’/1.9 miles)
12:30 PM -Climbers Trail junction (3.7 miles)
1:30 PM -Arrive at 6800’ camp on Squaw Creek below Hayden Glacier.
Sunday
5:00 AM -Wake up.
6:00 AM -Start climb.
10:30 AM -Arrive at summit. (10047')
11:00 AM -Depart summit.
1:00 PM -Arrive at 6800’ camp on Squaw Creek.
2:00 PM -Depart 6800’ camp on Squaw Creek.
4:15 PM -Arrive at Pole Creek Spring Trail Head (5300’).
5:30 PM -Arrive in Sisters for post climb meal.
6:30 PM -Depart Sisters.
9:00 PM -Arrive at the State Motor Pool Park & Ride.
Participant responsibility: It is each participant's responsibility to be in good physical shape and have the skills and equipment (see below) to participate safely in this climb. A club release will be circulated at the trailhead for each participant to sign.
Required personal equipment: Ten or so essentials (map, compass, GPS if you have one, food, water, first aid, whistle, sunscreen, matches, fire starter, headlamp with extra batteries, emergency blanket or plastic mattress bag, small knife.)
- Glacier glasses or wrap around sun glasses
- 2 liters water
- Food – one breakfast, one dinner, two lunches (easy to eat)
- high carbohydrate snacks (that are easy to access and eat with gloves on)
- Stove, fuel and cookset, with a little extra fuel should we need to melt water - stove to be shared with 2-3 others.
- Waterproof jacket
- waterproof/resistant shell pants
- Long underwear or tights for under your pants
- Pants (no cotton)
- extra socks
- Gloves and mittens (over-mitts are also nice if you have them)
- wool or fleece cap and balaclava
- Sit Pad (optional)
- Trekking Poles (recommended)
- Snowshoes
- 4 Season Tent/Snow anchors
- Snow Shovel (one per tent)
- Sleeping pad (Full length)
- Sleeping bag rated 20 degrees or below
- Warm, insulated waterproof boots or plastic boots
- Crampons that fit your boots (that you have practiced fitting to your boot)
- Down booties (optional)
- Gaiters
- Ice Axe
- Helmet
- Sun screen
- personal first aid kit & personal medications
Group Gear: The following will be distributed at the trailhead and redistributed periodically during the trip:
- Ropes
- Pickets
- One bivy sack and one sleeping bag will be carried by the party on summit day.
Emergencies: In addition to the personal gear & group gear (above) the leader will be carrying a SPOT satellite rescue beacon, GPS and cell phone (503-910-9726.) I will also be sending occasional satellite "check-in" messages to this blog during the trip. In the event of an emergency, I will send out a 911 signal from this device. Local Emergency Contacts: Emergency Contact Information: 911; Central Oregon Emergency Dispatch Center 541-416-6800; Deschutes National Forest, Sisters Ranger District: 541-549-7700. If the party is overdue my local (Salem area) contact is Jackie Niemeyer 503-930-8782. She will communicate with the participant's families in the event of an accident.
Waypoints (UTM NAD27 Conus)
001 Trailhead, N44 11.263 W121 41.991, 5297 ft
002, N44 10.950 W121 42.244, 5528 ft
Jct, N44 10.288 W121 42.463, 5861 ft
003, N44 09.800 W121 42.348, 5707 ft
004, N44 09.364 W121 43.296, 5988 ft
005, N44 09.355 W121 43.453, 6079 ft
006, N44 09.353 W121 43.911, 6298 ft
007, N44 09.292 W121 44.559, 6635 ft
008, N44 09.177 W121 44.718, 6736 ft
009, N44 09.043 W121 44.719, 6763 ft
Camp, N44 09.041 W121 44.712, 6780 ft
010, N44 09.077 W121 45.423, 7243 ft
011, N44 09.078 W121 45.423, 7246 ft
012, N44 09.078 W121 45.422, 7245 ft
013, N44 09.164 W121 46.121, 8137 ft
014, N44 09.232 W121 46.867, 9027 ft
015, N44 09.021 W121 46.974, 9736 ft
016, N44 08.938 W121 46.964, 10010 ft
017 Summit, N44 09.340 W121 44.161, 10,047
For pictures of our 2007 climb of middle sister see http://mikessummits.blogspot.com/2007/05/middle-sister-via-hayden-glacier-may.html
