Middle Sister, Hayden Glacier, July 21-22, 2012

On July 21-22, 2012 I'll be leading a Chemeketan club climb of Middle Sister via the Hayden Glacier and north ridge route. (Crux pitch shown below)












Schedule:
Wednesday July 18, 7:00pm
Pre-climb meeting at the Chemekaden (State Street above Cooks stationary) Please bring your gear.
Saturday July 21
7:15 AM -Silverton folks meet at Niemeyers - final gear check.
7:45 AM Carpool from Salem State Motorpool (Airport road) headed to Sisters.
9:15 AM short coffee and restroom stop in Sisters. Drive to trailhead.
10:00 AM - Arrive at trailhead, pass out group gear, etc.
10:45 AM -Depart Pole Creek Spring Trail Head (5300’/0.0 miles)
11:30 AM -Green Lakes Trail junction (Tr 4070) (5900’/1.4 miles).
11:50 AM -Lunch break at Soap Creek ... Chambers Lakes Trail Jct.(Tr 4074) (5760’/1.9 miles)
12:45 PM -Climbers Trail junction (3.7 miles)
2:30 PM -Arrive at 6800’ camp on Squaw Creek below Hayden Glacier. As time, and conditions, allow we will be practicing rope team travel, passing through pickets and crevasse rescue after we set up camp.
Sunday July 22
3:00 AM -Wake up.
3:30 AM -Start climb
9:30 AM -Arrive at summit. (10047')
10:00AM -Depart summit.
12:45 PM -Arrive at 6800’ camp on Squaw Creek.
1:30 PM -Depart 6800’ camp on Squaw Creek.
4:15 PM -Arrive at Pole Creek Spring Trail Head (5300’).
5:15 PM -Dinner in sisters.
6:30 PM -Depart Sisters.
8:15 PM -Arrive in Salem.

Roster (Note that inclusion on the roster is not a guaranteed spot on this climb.  climbers must demonstrate prior to the climb that they are in good physical condition for an alpine climb and have the requisite skills and equipment.)
Mike Niemeyer (leader)
Mason Smith (assistant)
Megan Hogland
Mike Pennington
Brett Milliken
Bryan Brenneman
 
Driving directions: Drive east on highway 22 to Sisters. Just before you get into Sisters, turn Right onto Hwy. 242.To get to the Pole Creek trail head: travel 1.5 miles west of Sisters, OR on Hwy 242, turn South, Left, on Forest Service road 15 which is paved at first, but the pavement soon turns into washboard gravel. Follow the well traveled forks (generally to the right) for the first few miles. At 7.1 miles you'll reach a "Y" intersection. Stay left at this junction (following the signs to Pole Creek), and follow the road to its end just past milepost 10 at the parking area for the Pole Creek Trailhead. There is a pit toilet at the trail head but no water. Drivers: You will need a Northwest Forest pass to park at the trailhead - these can be purchased from a machine at the trailhead.
Participant responsibility: It is each participant's responsibility to be in good physical shape and have the skills and equipment to participate safely in this climb. A club release will be circulated at the trailhead for each participant to sign.
Skills needed: Passing through pickets on a rope team; tying/using prussiks on rope for crevasse self-rescue; ice-axe self arrest; rope team travel.
Group Gear: The following will be distributed at the trailhead and redistributed periodically during the trip: Ropes; Pickets; one bivy sack and one sleeping bag will be carried by the party on summit day;
Emergencies: In addition to the personal gear and group gear (above) the leader will be carrying a SPOT satellite rescue beacon, GPS and cell phone (503-910-9726.) I will also be sending occasional satellite "check-in" messages to this blog during the trip. In the event of an emergency, I will send out a 911 signal from this device. Track our progess real-time at this link. Local Emergency Contacts: Emergency Contact Information: 911; Central Oregon Emergency Dispatch Center 541-416-6800; Deschutes National Forest, Sisters Ranger District: 541-549-7700.
NAVIGATION and WEATHER:
Route topos courtesy of the Mazamas: Middle Sister Route and Middle Sister approach

Links to recent middle sister climbs:
http://mikessummits.blogspot.com/search/label/Middle%20Sister
http://mikessummits.blogspot.com/2011/01/middle-sister-via-hayden-glacier-july.html