Middle Sister via Hayden Glacier, July 19-20, 2014

On July 19-20, 2014 we had a successful Chemeketan club climb of Middle Sister via the Hayden Glacier with all 9 team members submitting. On Saturday we hiked up to 8000 ft and made camp on snow with small streams and ponds available for water.  After setting up camp we did some training on the Hayden Glacier. Sunday we left camp at 5am and reached the summit after 8 am.  The chief challenge was very gusty winds on the ridge.  The snow traverse was melted out so we did not set pickets as usual at the crux, scrambling instead past that steep section.  




Crossing Soap Creek (Previous bridge had burned out.)

Matt Niemeyer at our High Camp.


Sunrise - headed up the Hayden...




Photo of our team (9 very small dots on the snow ridge in the center of the photo) ascending the Hayden Glacier courtesy of Danni Harris who was on North Sister at the time - Thanks Danni!

Our rope team (2 ropes)

Team on the Hayden Glacier - Middle Sister


Our camp at 8,000 ft









For pictures from my 2012 Middle Sister Climb see this link.

***************Pre-Trip Prospectus below***************

Schedule
Wednesday July 16, 6:00 pm (Note that this is a change from the original date)
Pre-climb meeting at the Chemekaden (State Street above Cooks stationary) Please bring your gear. Please bring your gear to that meeting.  We will figure out tents, stoves and carpooling and do some skills review including: Passing through pickets and tying into the rope with your harness and prussik loops.  (It's important that you can do perform these tasks quickly and efficiently.)  I'll also discuss the climb schedule.  (We will camp at 8,000' at the edge of the Hayden glacier.  This has the advantage of an easier summit day on Sunday.  Disadvantage is more limited sites for tents (we may need to shovel-out some spots in the snow) and greater exposure to wind and thunderstorms.) 

 Saturday July 19
6:00 AM Carpool leaves from Salem State Motorpool (Airport road) headed to Sisters.
8:15 AM short coffee and restroom stop in Sisters. Drive to trailhead.
9:00 AM - Arrive at trailhead, gear up.
9:35 AM -Depart Pole Creek Spring Trail Head (5300’/0.0 miles)
10:30 AM -Green Lakes Trail junction (Tr 4070) (5900’/1.4 miles).
11:00 AM -Lunch break at Soap Creek ... Chambers Lakes Trail Jct.(Tr 4074) (5760’/1.9 miles)
12:45 PM -Climbers Trail junction (3.7 miles)
2:30 PM -Arrive at 6800
3:45 PM Arrive at 8,000' camp just below Hayden glacier.  As time, and conditions, allow we will be practicing rope team travel, passing through pickets and crevasse rescue after we set up camp.  If we take the high camp we will need to take time to melt snow for water.

Sunday July 20 (Schedule assumes we camp at 6,900')
4:30 AM -Wake up.
5:00 AM -Start climb
8:30 AM -Arrive at summit. (10047')
9:00AM -Depart summit.
10:45 PM -Arrive at camp 
11:45 PM -Depart camp on Squaw Creek.
2:15 PM -Arrive at Pole Creek Spring Trail Head (5300’).
3:15 PM -Dinner in sisters.
4:15 PM -Depart Sisters.
6:45 PM -Arrive in Salem.

Roster (Note that inclusion on the roster is not a guaranteed spot on this climb.  climbers must demonstrate prior to the climb that they are in good physical condition for an alpine climb and have the requisite skills and equipment.)
    1. Mike Niemeyer (leader)
    2. Ray Jaindl
    3. Fernando Benitez 
    4. Roger Monette
    5. Carl Moreland
    6. Kim Longo 
    7. Jake Bonham
    8. Matt Niemeyer 
    9. Philip Gray
    Participant responsibility: It is each participant's responsibility to be in good physical shape and have the skills and equipment to participate safely in this climb. A club release will be circulated at the trailhead for each participant to sign. Skills needed: Passing through pickets on a rope team; tying/using prussiks on rope for crevasse self-rescue; ice-axe self arrest; rope team travel.

    Links to my other middle sister climbs:
    http://mikessummits.blogspot.com/search/label/Middle%20Sister
    http://mikessummits.blogspot.com/2011/01/middle-sister-via-hayden-glacier-july.html

    Driving directions: Drive east on highway 22 to Sisters. Just before you get into Sisters, turn Right onto Hwy. 242.To get to the Pole Creek trail head: travel 1.5 miles west of Sisters, OR on Hwy 242, turn South, Left, on Forest Service road 15 which is paved at first, but the pavement soon turns into washboard gravel. Follow the well traveled forks (generally to the right) for the first few miles. At 7.1 miles you'll reach a "Y" intersection. Stay left at this junction (following the signs to Pole Creek), and follow the road to its end just past milepost 10 at the parking area for the Pole Creek Trailhead. There is a pit toilet at the trail head but no water. Drivers: You will need a Northwest Forest pass to park at the trailhead - these can be purchased from a machine at the trailhead. 

    Required personal equipment - See List #3

    Group Gear: The following will be distributed at the trailhead and redistributed periodically during the trip: Ropes; Pickets; one bivy sack and one sleeping bag will be carried by the party on summit day;

    Emergencies: In addition to the personal gear and group gear (above) the leader will be carrying a SPOT satellite rescue beacon, GPS and cell phone (503-910-9726.) I will also be sending occasional satellite "check-in" messages to this blog during the trip. In the event of an emergency, I will send out a 911 signal from this device. Track our progress real-time at this link. Local Emergency Contacts: Emergency Contact Information: 911; Central Oregon Emergency Dispatch Center 541-416-6800; Deschutes National Forest, Sisters Ranger District: 541-549-7700.