We practiced anchor placement, passing through pickets and roped team travel and rested for the climb early Sunday. Tom Spettel decided to not attempt the climb as he had experienced some ailments on the approach hike in. Jackie Niemeyer had not planned to summit and also remained in camp when we pushed off about 3:45 am Sunday morning.
We roped up at about 7,900 ft at the base of the Hayden glacier where many small (and easily avoided) crevasses were evident.
The rising sun turned the glacier orange as we ascended, enjoying the unobstructed vistas. We caught a view of lights of an obsidian team headed up North sister that we had met eariler on the trail. Danni Harris was kind enough to send me the picture she took of our team (below)
At the saddle we took off crampons and packed the rope for about 700 ft of east scrambling up the N ridge.
At the snowfield that is typically the crux of the climb we again put on crampons and roped up. This section had only fair steps and was icy (Not something I would have wanted to do without crampons - it had been deep buckets in soft snow a month earlier) I set pickets to protect this section and the team did a running belay, leaving the pickets in place for the descent. As is also typical, the section above was a sand dune of small and large scree, two steps up and one back - hard on the spirits at this point in the climb. A short snowfield and we were soon enjoying the spectacular views from the summit. The return to camp was about 2 hours with Terry leading us down. We got in a few short glissades below the glacier. The hike to the trailhead was long and dry and the ice chest in the car was a welcome antidote. A stop in Sisters (Depot Deli), summit certificates and we were headed home. A strong, enjoyable team! Special thanks to Carl Shephard who carried the rope about 80% of the trip. Pictures courtesy Mason Smith. This was a great trip made even better by sharing it with my wife Jackie and daughter Katie. 
From pre-climb prospectus:
- Mike Niemeyer (leader)
- Terry Walstrom
- Carl Shephard
- Katie Niemeyer
- Mason Smith
- Tom Spettel (base camp)
- Jackie Niemeyer (base camp)
Middle Sister 2011 (July)
Middle Sister 2010
Middle Sister 2008
Middle Sister 2007
Schedule:
Wednesday August 10, 7:00pm
Pre-climb meeting at Niemeyer's Silverton
Pre-climb meeting at Niemeyer's Silverton
Saturday
7:15 AM -Silverton folks meet at Niemeyers - final gear check.
7:45 AM Carpool from Salem/Silverton (exact meet-up location TBD) to Sisters.
7:45 AM Carpool from Salem/Silverton (exact meet-up location TBD) to Sisters.
9:15 AM short coffee and restroom stop in Sisters. Drive to trailhead.
10:00 AM - Arrive at trailhead, pass out group gear, etc.
10:45 AM -Depart Pole Creek Spring Trail Head (5300’/0.0 miles)
10:45 AM -Depart Pole Creek Spring Trail Head (5300’/0.0 miles)
11:30 AM -Green Lakes Trail junction (Tr 4070) (5900’/1.4 miles).
11:50 AM -Lunch break? Soap Creek ... Chambers Lakes Trail Jct.(Tr 4074) (5760’/1.9 miles)
12:45 PM -Climbers Trail junction (3.7 miles)
2:30 PM -Arrive at 6800’ camp on Squaw Creek below Hayden Glacier. As time, and conditions, allow we will be practicing rope team travel, passing through pickets and cravasse rescue after we set up camp.
3:30 AM -Start climb.(Photo left shows climber on rope crossing the Hayden glacier)
9:30 AM -Arrive at summit. (10047')
10:00AM -Depart summit.
12:45 PM -Arrive at 6800’ camp on Squaw Creek.
1:30 PM -Depart 6800’ camp on Squaw Creek.
4:15 PM -Arrive at Pole Creek Spring Trail Head (5300’).
5:15 PM -Dinner in sisters.
6:30 PM -Depart Sisters.
8:15 PM -Arrive in Silverton/Salem.
Driving directions: Drive east on highway 22 to Sisters. Just before you get into Sisters, turn Right onto Hwy. 242. To get to the Pole Creek trailhead: travel 1.5 miles west of Sisters, OR on Hwy 242, turn South, Left, on Forest Service road 15 which is paved at first, but the pavement soon turns into washboard gravel. Follow the well traveled forks (generally to the right) for the first few miles. At 7.1 miles you'll reach a "Y" intersection. Stay left at this junction (following the signs to Pole Creek), and follow the road to its end just past milepost 10 at the parking area for the Pole Creek Trailhead. There is a pit toliet at the trailhead but no water. Drivers: You will need a Northwest Forest pass to park at the trailhead - these can be purchased from a machine at the trailhead.
Driving directions: Drive east on highway 22 to Sisters. Just before you get into Sisters, turn Right onto Hwy. 242. To get to the Pole Creek trailhead: travel 1.5 miles west of Sisters, OR on Hwy 242, turn South, Left, on Forest Service road 15 which is paved at first, but the pavement soon turns into washboard gravel. Follow the well traveled forks (generally to the right) for the first few miles. At 7.1 miles you'll reach a "Y" intersection. Stay left at this junction (following the signs to Pole Creek), and follow the road to its end just past milepost 10 at the parking area for the Pole Creek Trailhead. There is a pit toliet at the trailhead but no water. Drivers: You will need a Northwest Forest pass to park at the trailhead - these can be purchased from a machine at the trailhead.
Participant responsibility: It is each participant's responsibility to be in good physical shape and have the skills and equipment to participate safely in this climb. A club release will be circulated at the trailhead for each participant to sign.
Skills needed: Passing through pickets on a rope team; tying/using prussiks on rope for crevasse self-rescue; ice-axe self arrest; rope team travel.
Skills needed: Passing through pickets on a rope team; tying/using prussiks on rope for crevasse self-rescue; ice-axe self arrest; rope team travel.
Group Gear: The following will be distributed at the trailhead and redistributed periodically during the trip: Ropes; Pickets; one bivy sack and one sleeping bag will be carried by the party on summit day;
Emergencies: In addition to the personal gear and group gear (above) the leader will be carrying a SPOT satellite rescue beacon, GPS and cell phone (503-910-9726.) I will also be sending occasional satellite "check-in" messages to this blog during the trip. In the event of an emergency, I will send out a 911 signal from this device. Track our progess real-time at this link. Local Emergency Contacts: Emergency Contact Information: 911; Central Oregon Emergency Dispatch Center 541-416-6800; Deschutes National Forest, Sisters Ranger District: 541-549-7700.
NAVIGATION and WEATHER:
